Question: Convert 1HZ 80 Series to 1HD-FT/FTE versus upgrade to 100 Series?

[RMP&O]

Do the motor swap, forget about the IFS truck. Keep the solid and proven 80-series.

my 2 cents

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Good suggestion however here's the catch. To properly turbo a 1HZ to ensure engine longevity there are many things you need to consider as follows:

• Check engine compression
• Ensure that injectors are in top condition and fuel pump is in good working order (rebuild for both is about $2200)
• Turbo kit ($3500 supply only, $4200 installed)
• Intercooler ($1500 to $3500), if you want to keep your Exhaust Gas Temperatures low this is a must however many will argue this point and there are lots of turbo 1HZ punting around Oz without a turbo.
• Exhaust Gas Temperature and Boost Gauge ($450)
• Check and replace big end bearings ($750)
• Dyno tune ($400) a must for these engines otherwise you will damage this motor it's just a matter of when
• 3" exhaust to get most out of turbo system due to restrictions on OEM exhaust ($1200)
• You may or may not be up for a Heavy Duty clutch depending on the condition of your existing one and if you are towing a trailer ($800 to $1000).
• With all this new found power, you will be considering a brake upgrade ($800 to $1200).

So when you add this all up, you are looking at $9000 to $10000 to get a properly set up and reliable system that won't leave you stranded mid Australia somewhere.

You need to remember that a lot of what you have listed here will need to be done on a 1hd swap as well regardless. About the only things not needed if you where to go with the 1hd would be the turbo kit the rest of those things are what I would call required in any swap.

I think the 1HZ would be a great engine with a turbo. I would do it this way.

Do all the maintenance items listed (required one way to another 1hd swap or not):

[*]Exhaust Gas Temperature and Boost Gauge ($450)
[*]Check and replace big end bearings ($750)
[*]Dyno tune ($400) a must for these engines otherwise you will damage this motor it's just a matter of when
[*]3" exhaust to get most out of turbo system due to restrictions on OEM exhaust ($1200)
[*]You may or may not be up for a Heavy Duty clutch depending on the condition of your existing one and if you are towing a trailer ($800 to $1000).
[*]Check engine compression

Then for the turbo set up:
1HD turbo manifold and turbo (all lines and heat shields)
1HD upper air box lid with turn down outlet
1HD charge pipe (unless you go with an IC) Remember none of the 80 series Diesels had IC's and you can tune it to be reliable this way, sub 1200f EGT's.

With that list you would have a factory like turbo 1HZ, you would have the factory reliability that comes along with using OEM parts. All those parts can be easily sourced in OZ I would think. You would have no custom hard to come by replacement parts. I also think if you are doing this your self its all relatively easy stuff, all the 1HD parts are bolt on from what I can tell and have been told. The only hard part would be drilling the sump for the oil drain. There are lots of turbo 1HZ's rolling around reliably it all comes down the to condition of your starting point. I would do a compression check on your 1HZ and see what its like now and go from there.


Just my .02c (CND)

p.s. you have to bring that home what you move back to Canada, its a great set up.

 

[p1michaud]

Engine swap vs 100 Series upgrade.

edit: forget it, sounds like you're trying to talk yourself into a new motor.. so I say go for it!

FT or FTE would be great motors, a 1VD-FTE would be a rocket ship (~40% more horsepower, and nearly 100% more torques over a new 1HD-FTE)

The 1HD-FT and 1HD-FTE are reasonably easy swaps and starting to become common. The 1VD-FTE swap has been done in a 105 (linky) but would a significant undertaking with limited tools at my disposal (think basic hand tools, drill, grinders but no welders, air compressors, engine stands, etc...).

Out of curiosity, why did you get the impression I was in favour of the engine swap vs 100 Series cruiser?

Do the motor swap, forget about the IFS truck. Keep the solid and proven 80-series.

my 2 cents

Is it just personal preference or have you had issues with a 100 IFS? Just curious about your point of view. I've owned and wheeled an IFS Toyota Tacoma in the past and it was a great machine.

 

[p1michaud]

To turbo or not to turbo the 1HZ.

You need to remember that a lot of what you have listed here will need to be done on a 1hd swap as well regardless.

Very true.

I think the 1HZ would be a great engine with a turbo. I would do it this way.

• Exhaust Gas Temperature and Boost Gauge ($450)
• Check and replace big end bearings ($750)
• Dyno tune ($400) a must for these engines otherwise you will damage this motor it's just a matter of when
• 3" exhaust to get most out of turbo system due to restrictions on OEM exhaust ($1200)
• You may or may not be up for a Heavy Duty clutch depending on the condition of your existing one and if you are towing a trailer ($800 to $1000).
• Check engine compression

Then for the turbo set up:
1HD turbo manifold and turbo (all lines and heat shields)
1HD upper air box lid with turn down outlet
1HD charge pipe (unless you go with an IC) Remember none of the 80 series Diesels had IC's and you can tune it to be reliable this way, sub 1200f EGT's.

With that list you would have a factory like turbo 1HZ, you would have the factory reliability that comes along with using OEM parts. All those parts can be easily sourced in OZ I would think. You would have no custom hard to come by replacement parts. I also think if you are doing this your self its all relatively easy stuff, all the 1HD parts are bolt on from what I can tell and have been told. The only hard part would be drilling the sump for the oil drain. There are lots of turbo 1HZ's rolling around reliably it all comes down the to condition of your starting point. I would do a compression check on your 1HZ and see what its like now and go from there.

I would have to disagree with you here (that's fine as we can have different views on these things).

The current engine and clutch are healthy with no indication of future issues. Things such as:

• Exhaust Gas Temperature and Boost Gauge ($450)
• Check and replace big end bearings ($750)
• 3" exhaust to get most out of turbo system due to restrictions on OEM exhaust ($1200)
• You may or may not be up for a Heavy Duty clutch depending on the condition of your existing one and if you are towing a trailer ($800 to $1000).
• Check engine compression

Would not be warranted unless I were to consider a bolt on Turbo. The 3" would provide marginal gains if any, EGT and Boost Gauge would not be required as the Normally Aspirated 1HZ can't really be pushed hard enough to raise EGT temps (no turbo = no boost) other items such as big end bearings, clutch and engine compression don't require replacement on the 1HZ in the current service conditions. It has been on the dyno after the injectors and fuel pump were replaced.

There are some differences in design, the most obvious is the fact that the 1HZ is indirect injection while the 1HD-T/FT/FTE engines are direct injection. That difference alone is one of the limiting factors in bolting on a turbo to a 1HZ. With too much boost you will eventually crack the head between the pre-combustion chamber and the cooling gallery of the head. It's the common failure mode for the 1HZ turbo'd engines. It comes down to a personal decision. For me I know that the Toyota engineers put together some fantastic and robust designs. The changed the design from the 1HZ to the 1HD-T/FT/FTE for a reason so I'm not going to second guess all their research, development and testing but others are free to do so. :sombrero:

 

[Sawyer]

I do tend to go out and play on some harder tracks and trips on occasion. Unfortunately I've managed to push the front axle of the 80 past it's limit read here: 80 Series - Broken front diff housing. I did get home from this trip. I believe that's one benefit of the 80 due to the solid axles and slightly smaller size compared to the 100.

You know there will be die hard in either corner. The 100 can handle a lot more than people give it credit. If you are into running narrow trails or climbing in the rocks all day.... then the 80's is going to be a better choice. The 100 just isnt going to keep up. But, that has more to do with the limited amount of lift and ground clearance. You are stuck with ~2-2.5" lift and minor modifications to fit 35" tires. Other than that the 100 series is still a Land Cruiser and has proven to be just as reliable as any other Land Cruiser. I own a 100 series and have ridden in 80 series. Comfort wise the 100 is going to win every day. It will have plenty of power to tow. And, well ... So far it has gotten me everywhere I want to go without the need for lockers or re-gearing. ATRAC works better than most give credit for.





Head over to the ih8mud 100 series section for more research on it. There are a few OZ guys as well there....

 

[RMP&O]

The 1HD-FT and 1HD-FTE are reasonably easy swaps and starting to become common. The 1VD-FTE swap has been done in a 105 (linky) but would a significant undertaking with limited tools at my disposal (think basic hand tools, drill, grinders but no welders, air compressors, engine stands, etc...).

Out of curiosity, why did you get the impression I was in favour of the engine swap vs 100 Series cruiser?



Is it just personal preference or have you had issues with a 100 IFS? Just curious about your point of view. I've owned and wheeled an IFS Toyota Tacoma in the past and it was a great machine.

No I don't really have issues with the IFS, driven a Tacoma myself. I didn't off-road it much but did do a 15,000 mile stint in it over the course of 13 weeks. On that trip the IFS didn't give me any problems. The little offroading I did do in the Taco while I owned it, it does alright but can not touch my SFA FJ60 in terms of where it can go.

SFA in the 80-series is simply stronger, easier to work on, easier to modify and also easier to lift bigger then a few inches. Hence why I like it more.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Very true.




I would have to disagree with you here (that's fine as we can have different views on these things).

The current engine and clutch are healthy with no indication of future issues. Things such as:

• Exhaust Gas Temperature and Boost Gauge ($450)
• Check and replace big end bearings ($750)
• 3" exhaust to get most out of turbo system due to restrictions on OEM exhaust ($1200)
• You may or may not be up for a Heavy Duty clutch depending on the condition of your existing one and if you are towing a trailer ($800 to $1000).
• Check engine compression

Would not be warranted unless I were to consider a bolt on Turbo. The 3" would provide marginal gains if any, EGT and Boost Gauge would not be required as the Normally Aspirated 1HZ can't really be pushed hard enough to raise EGT temps (no turbo = no boost) other items such as big end bearings, clutch and engine compression don't require replacement on the 1HZ in the current service conditions. It has been on the dyno after the injectors and fuel pump were replaced.

There are some differences in design, the most obvious is the fact that the 1HZ is indirect injection while the 1HD-T/FT/FTE engines are direct injection. That difference alone is one of the limiting factors in bolting on a turbo to a 1HZ. With too much boost you will eventually crack the head between the pre-combustion chamber and the cooling gallery of the head. It's the common failure mode for the 1HZ turbo'd engines. It comes down to a personal decision. For me I know that the Toyota engineers put together some fantastic and robust designs. The changed the design from the 1HZ to the 1HD-T/FT/FTE for a reason so I'm not going to second guess all their research, development and testing but others are free to do so. :sombrero:

You are correct, I was using that as an example of 1HZ-T vr 1HD swap. I agree the 1HD is a great engine but again will need a lot of those mods listed, the 1HD also had big end bearing issues as well and I'm not sure Toyota ever replaced them in production life of the 1HD.

I would swap the truck you know rather than taking on an unknown truck, you have a rig with low mileage for the area you live in. All you want is a bit more power for towing and travel no need to start from scratch all over again. I would think a 1HD swap would be very easy on your truck as its already a diesel, basically a plug and play. Would be totally worth it if you plan to bring it back to Canada some day (I would do that in a heart beat).

 

[p1michaud]

You know there will be die hard in either corner. The 100 can handle a lot more than people give it credit.

Head over to the ih8mud 100 series section for more research on it. There are a few OZ guys as well there....

Yes I understand that there will be a die hard in every corner. Thanks for posting for the 100 (not many actual owners have posted yet). I do frequent ih8mud as well, mostly to read.

Thanks to all the input folks, I appreciate it.

Cheers,
P

 

[esh]

The 1HD-FT and 1HD-FTE are reasonably easy swaps and starting to become common. The 1VD-FTE swap has been done in a 105 (linky) but would a significant undertaking with limited tools at my disposal (think basic hand tools, drill, grinders but no welders, air compressors, engine stands, etc...).

Out of curiosity, why did you get the impression I was in favour of the engine swap vs 100 Series cruiser?

It seemed like you wanted to talk yourself out of what could amount to $2k turbo addition (incl new turbo) in favor of a truck or motor swap. I had written up why a swap would only cost around that much and not nearly $10k has you'd listed out... but it sounded like you wanted to go above and beyond for what would be a very straight forward upgrade on a young motor. New truck, new motor, it seemed all to be a lot of unnecessary expense to me either way. Just my .02 having been through an HZ and turbo conversion on my FJ62.

If you are interested in pursuing the turbo, go look at gifu's thread in the 70 series forum on ih8mud. A lot of what you need to make it work is done without buying a spendy kit. Some simple fab (welding a tube to a collar, drilling/tapping a hole for pyro, plumbing oil for turbo, routing air) would get it done. So my conclusion was you wanted to find reasons to spend a bunch of money instead of just adding the turbo and giving it a try.


Toyota way over engineers their motors, especially diesels. There is no second guessing, it is just how things work based on a lot of experiences by many different people, and comparing parts in the EPC, there is no voodoo involved. The HZ and HD-T share a common block and crank, both with piston skirt oiling, and the upgrades are only necessary if you are pushing things.. at that point it is worth it to swap to an HD-T anyways rather than laying out $$$ for turbo HZ pistons and rods. No intercooler or anything else needed, other than verifying the BeBs are good. This is nearly the easiest power upgrade a person could do to any of these engines (again, AS LONG AS YOU ARE NOT PUSHING PRESSURE.. and Graeme can get you around that).

IMO there is a reason the 1HZ is the longest production run of any Toyota engine, ever (1990 - still being produced). It works well and evidently has a great, simple, design. I would rather have an HD-T and believe they are superior, but the gains are not worth the extra expense to me.