Good suggestion however here's the catch. To properly turbo a 1HZ to ensure engine longevity there are many things you need to consider as follows:
- Check engine compression
- Ensure that injectors are in top condition and fuel pump is in good working order (rebuild for both is about $2200)
- Turbo kit ($3500 supply only, $4200 installed)
- Intercooler ($1500 to $3500), if you want to keep your Exhaust Gas Temperatures low this is a must however many will argue this point and there are lots of turbo 1HZ punting around Oz without a turbo.
- Exhaust Gas Temperature and Boost Gauge ($450)
- Check and replace big end bearings ($750)
- Dyno tune ($400) a must for these engines otherwise you will damage this motor it's just a matter of when
- 3" exhaust to get most out of turbo system due to restrictions on OEM exhaust ($1200)
- You may or may not be up for a Heavy Duty clutch depending on the condition of your existing one and if you are towing a trailer ($800 to $1000).
- With all this new found power, you will be considering a brake upgrade ($800 to $1200).
So when you add this all up, you are looking at $9000 to $10000 to get a properly set up and reliable system that won't leave you stranded mid Australia somewhere.
edit: forget it, sounds like you're trying to talk yourself into a new motor.. so I say go for it!
FT or FTE would be great motors, a 1VD-FTE would be a rocket ship (~40% more horsepower, and nearly 100% more torques over a new 1HD-FTE)
Do the motor swap, forget about the IFS truck. Keep the solid and proven 80-series.
my 2 cents
You need to remember that a lot of what you have listed here will need to be done on a 1hd swap as well regardless.
I think the 1HZ would be a great engine with a turbo. I would do it this way.
- Exhaust Gas Temperature and Boost Gauge ($450)
- Check and replace big end bearings ($750)
- Dyno tune ($400) a must for these engines otherwise you will damage this motor it's just a matter of when
- 3" exhaust to get most out of turbo system due to restrictions on OEM exhaust ($1200)
- You may or may not be up for a Heavy Duty clutch depending on the condition of your existing one and if you are towing a trailer ($800 to $1000).
- Check engine compression
Then for the turbo set up:
1HD turbo manifold and turbo (all lines and heat shields)
1HD upper air box lid with turn down outlet
1HD charge pipe (unless you go with an IC) Remember none of the 80 series Diesels had IC's and you can tune it to be reliable this way, sub 1200f EGT's.
With that list you would have a factory like turbo 1HZ, you would have the factory reliability that comes along with using OEM parts. All those parts can be easily sourced in OZ I would think. You would have no custom hard to come by replacement parts. I also think if you are doing this your self its all relatively easy stuff, all the 1HD parts are bolt on from what I can tell and have been told. The only hard part would be drilling the sump for the oil drain. There are lots of turbo 1HZ's rolling around reliably it all comes down the to condition of your starting point. I would do a compression check on your 1HZ and see what its like now and go from there.
I do tend to go out and play on some harder tracks and trips on occasion. Unfortunately I've managed to push the front axle of the 80 past it's limit read here: 80 Series - Broken front diff housing. I did get home from this trip. I believe that's one benefit of the 80 due to the solid axles and slightly smaller size compared to the 100.
The 1HD-FT and 1HD-FTE are reasonably easy swaps and starting to become common. The 1VD-FTE swap has been done in a 105 (linky) but would a significant undertaking with limited tools at my disposal (think basic hand tools, drill, grinders but no welders, air compressors, engine stands, etc...).
Out of curiosity, why did you get the impression I was in favour of the engine swap vs 100 Series cruiser?
Is it just personal preference or have you had issues with a 100 IFS? Just curious about your point of view. I've owned and wheeled an IFS Toyota Tacoma in the past and it was a great machine.
Very true.
I would have to disagree with you here (that's fine as we can have different views on these things).
The current engine and clutch are healthy with no indication of future issues. Things such as:
- Exhaust Gas Temperature and Boost Gauge ($450)
- Check and replace big end bearings ($750)
- 3" exhaust to get most out of turbo system due to restrictions on OEM exhaust ($1200)
- You may or may not be up for a Heavy Duty clutch depending on the condition of your existing one and if you are towing a trailer ($800 to $1000).
- Check engine compression
Would not be warranted unless I were to consider a bolt on Turbo. The 3" would provide marginal gains if any, EGT and Boost Gauge would not be required as the Normally Aspirated 1HZ can't really be pushed hard enough to raise EGT temps (no turbo = no boost) other items such as big end bearings, clutch and engine compression don't require replacement on the 1HZ in the current service conditions. It has been on the dyno after the injectors and fuel pump were replaced.
There are some differences in design, the most obvious is the fact that the 1HZ is indirect injection while the 1HD-T/FT/FTE engines are direct injection. That difference alone is one of the limiting factors in bolting on a turbo to a 1HZ. With too much boost you will eventually crack the head between the pre-combustion chamber and the cooling gallery of the head. It's the common failure mode for the 1HZ turbo'd engines. It comes down to a personal decision. For me I know that the Toyota engineers put together some fantastic and robust designs. The changed the design from the 1HZ to the 1HD-T/FT/FTE for a reason so I'm not going to second guess all their research, development and testing but others are free to do so. :sombrero:
You know there will be die hard in either corner. The 100 can handle a lot more than people give it credit.
Head over to the ih8mud 100 series section for more research on it. There are a few OZ guys as well there....
The 1HD-FT and 1HD-FTE are reasonably easy swaps and starting to become common. The 1VD-FTE swap has been done in a 105 (linky) but would a significant undertaking with limited tools at my disposal (think basic hand tools, drill, grinders but no welders, air compressors, engine stands, etc...).
Out of curiosity, why did you get the impression I was in favour of the engine swap vs 100 Series cruiser?