Sikocycles
Adventurer
What welder are you using?
Redeth's Overland Trailer Build
- Thread starter Redeth005
- Start date
toyotech
Expedition Leader
Redeth005
Adventurer
Its A Lincoln 220 Wire welder. It's a great welder. I made both my 4runners front and rear plate steel bumpers, tire carrier swing out, and Jerry can holder with this welder. It's really good.
Over on the other forum "YotaTech.com" we figured out what my issue was. The problem is I'm using some really crappy flux core wire. My fault for not using it before so I just bought the cheap Harbor Freight Flux core wire and that is why I'm getting nasty welds doesn't matter what settings I out it to they just look bad. The guy on the other forum said made me think when he asked "Are you sure it's a good quality wire?" And I remembered I bought the cheap flux core at harbor freight instead of my local "PraxAir" welding supply store where I usually buy all my welding stuff at. It was my mistake but at least I realized what the problem was.
I'm just going to finish using the rest if this crappy wire and once it's done I'm gonna go buy 2 rolls of the good welding flux core wire for my nearby welding supply store. I'm sure the quality of the welds will be much better once I get the other one.
Redeth005
Adventurer
I've seen people do that with 2 batteries before but instead of coat hangers they used actual welding sticks. And it was awesome. That is a really nice method to weld. (+ & -) is backwards from what I remember. It's a nice way to save your butt when something breaks on the trail. But I hear welding like that can damage your batteries. Not sure if it just drains it or really damages it. But it would be nice to look into that.
Louisd75
Adventurer
Redeth005
Adventurer
pfft! you should see the credit card statement. I really gotta put spending on hold for a while till i pay this stuff off haha. I still have a $37k school loan to pay for haha!
But at least i have everything i need to worry about for now in order to build that front storage compartment (minus door latch and water proofing seals for the doors) But i can get alot done with what i have now for a few weeks.
Redeth005
Adventurer
Nice to see AllPro-Offroad.com came through for me and sold me 6 of these greaseable leaf spring bolts.
I was finally able to install the donated Trail-Gear 4" lift leaf springs with my 4Runner's old 4" shackles. I'm sure they'll settle down some once the trailer is sitting on it's own weight.
Also, today after work i dropped by the steel shop and bought a 2"x2" 1/4" thick stick of 20ft steel tube so i could build the trailer axle. But i only need 48-50" worth of that 20ft tube for the axle lol I didn't plan on buying a full length piece but the shop doesn't sell cut pieces of 1/4" tube so i figured i could still build the front tongue of the trailer with the remaining amount of that stick. why not right? I'll just stack 2 pieces of that 2x2 tube and turn it into a 4x2 and then make the hitch connector with a piece of the 2x2 as well. It definitely wont go to waste and 1/4" thick will be nice to use for the frame. so it all works out in the end.
It got dark too fast outside so i didn't get around to welding up the axle yet. I'll probably knock that job out of the way on saturday.
thats all for now.
I was finally able to install the donated Trail-Gear 4" lift leaf springs with my 4Runner's old 4" shackles. I'm sure they'll settle down some once the trailer is sitting on it's own weight.
Also, today after work i dropped by the steel shop and bought a 2"x2" 1/4" thick stick of 20ft steel tube so i could build the trailer axle. But i only need 48-50" worth of that 20ft tube for the axle lol I didn't plan on buying a full length piece but the shop doesn't sell cut pieces of 1/4" tube so i figured i could still build the front tongue of the trailer with the remaining amount of that stick. why not right? I'll just stack 2 pieces of that 2x2 tube and turn it into a 4x2 and then make the hitch connector with a piece of the 2x2 as well. It definitely wont go to waste and 1/4" thick will be nice to use for the frame. so it all works out in the end.
It got dark too fast outside so i didn't get around to welding up the axle yet. I'll probably knock that job out of the way on saturday.
thats all for now.
Redeth005
Adventurer
Time to build the trailer axle!
I took a ton of pix because i couldn't find any info on how to build a trailer axle and it made research hard for me. So i took a bunch of pix to help others out in case they are in the same boat i was in.
First i had to mark the inner weld on the inside of that 1/4" 2x2" tube that ill be using for the axle. The spindles won't fit inside until i cut out this piece on on the spindle side.
Now i can fit the spindles into place and properly measure how wide my axle will be.
Perfect fit
The guy at my local trailer shop told me to leave 1" of that solid steel spindle shaft exposed so this was me double checking that i was at the correct distance.
Covered up the spindle threading with a junk piece of tube that i was practicing on a long long long time ago lol I covered the threading to make sure no weld splatter sticks to where i don't want it at.
Next i used my 2 spare triple slotted AllPro-Offroad spring perches from when i did the Solid Axle Swap on my 4runner. I had 2 left over so it worked out for me in using them for this axle. If you have ever built your own axle or plan to build your own axle and decide to use Truck leaf springs like i am doing you will find out that the spring perches that you find on trailer part stores are more narrow due to the thinner leaf springs. (or at least the ones at my local store were about 1" too thin.) So Since i am using regular width 4Runner springs these work out the best. But of course they had to be modified for a square tube axle because these are made for the stock toyota axle. So here they are already notched to 2"
I tacked the spring perches in place and made sure they were even on both sides. Then i held them in place on to the leaf springs to make sure i got them in the correct location. Once i threw on a few more tacks i was ready to permanently weld them into place.
I think im getting a little better at using this cheap harbor freight flux core wire. I hate it so much! they cause so much splatter and the welds never come out as nice as when i use gas with regular wire. but i dont have much of a choice right now so i had to deal with it.
I added plates to the bottom side for reinforcement because the spring perches were only welded pretty much on one of the 4 sides of the square tube. So this helped a lot.
Practice Fitment
Primed
Nice matte black finish. It still needs the 2nd coat. I'll do it tomorrow.
One of the issues i ran into by choosing to use truck leaf springs paired with a 2" tube trailer axle is that i cant use a trailer u-bolt plate or the truck u-bolt plate. sooooo i have to make my own.
I didn't want to use 1/4" steel and i didn't have 0.5" scrap metal so i went digging in the back yard and found this chunk of steel beam. Cut it with the acetylene torch to 4&3/8" x 5".
Just gotta grind it down, clean up the rust, and drill the 4 u-bolt holes and center pin hole on each plate then i can finally secure the axle to the leaf springs.
Making this axle took forever to get just right but I took my time to get it right the first time around. Once put together with electric brakes and rest of the hub assembly the axle will be 59" hub face to hub face. My stock 4Runner axles are 58.5" wide so it works out fine.
I'll probably get it all pieced together by tomorrow and i'll upload a few more pix. Enjoy!
I took a ton of pix because i couldn't find any info on how to build a trailer axle and it made research hard for me. So i took a bunch of pix to help others out in case they are in the same boat i was in.
First i had to mark the inner weld on the inside of that 1/4" 2x2" tube that ill be using for the axle. The spindles won't fit inside until i cut out this piece on on the spindle side.
Now i can fit the spindles into place and properly measure how wide my axle will be.
Perfect fit
The guy at my local trailer shop told me to leave 1" of that solid steel spindle shaft exposed so this was me double checking that i was at the correct distance.
Covered up the spindle threading with a junk piece of tube that i was practicing on a long long long time ago lol I covered the threading to make sure no weld splatter sticks to where i don't want it at.
Next i used my 2 spare triple slotted AllPro-Offroad spring perches from when i did the Solid Axle Swap on my 4runner. I had 2 left over so it worked out for me in using them for this axle. If you have ever built your own axle or plan to build your own axle and decide to use Truck leaf springs like i am doing you will find out that the spring perches that you find on trailer part stores are more narrow due to the thinner leaf springs. (or at least the ones at my local store were about 1" too thin.) So Since i am using regular width 4Runner springs these work out the best. But of course they had to be modified for a square tube axle because these are made for the stock toyota axle. So here they are already notched to 2"
I tacked the spring perches in place and made sure they were even on both sides. Then i held them in place on to the leaf springs to make sure i got them in the correct location. Once i threw on a few more tacks i was ready to permanently weld them into place.
I think im getting a little better at using this cheap harbor freight flux core wire. I hate it so much! they cause so much splatter and the welds never come out as nice as when i use gas with regular wire. but i dont have much of a choice right now so i had to deal with it.
I added plates to the bottom side for reinforcement because the spring perches were only welded pretty much on one of the 4 sides of the square tube. So this helped a lot.
Practice Fitment
Primed
Nice matte black finish. It still needs the 2nd coat. I'll do it tomorrow.
One of the issues i ran into by choosing to use truck leaf springs paired with a 2" tube trailer axle is that i cant use a trailer u-bolt plate or the truck u-bolt plate. sooooo i have to make my own.
I didn't want to use 1/4" steel and i didn't have 0.5" scrap metal so i went digging in the back yard and found this chunk of steel beam. Cut it with the acetylene torch to 4&3/8" x 5".
Just gotta grind it down, clean up the rust, and drill the 4 u-bolt holes and center pin hole on each plate then i can finally secure the axle to the leaf springs.
Making this axle took forever to get just right but I took my time to get it right the first time around. Once put together with electric brakes and rest of the hub assembly the axle will be 59" hub face to hub face. My stock 4Runner axles are 58.5" wide so it works out fine.
I'll probably get it all pieced together by tomorrow and i'll upload a few more pix. Enjoy!
Redeth005
Adventurer
Thanks chosen. glad to see you among others are enjoying the build.
Redeth005
Adventurer
Now that thanksgiving is over i can add more to the build. Here is the continuation of what AllPro-Offroad and Trail-Gear call a "U-Bolt Flip kit" only difference is mine had to be custom made due to using Toyota leaf springs in pair with the trailer 2" thick axle. Enjoy
Drilled out the ubolt holes to 5/8" and the center pin hole to i believe 3/4". Yes that is a syringe. No needle but it works great for adding oil when drilling out the holes for lubrication.
Not the prettiest of creations but i don't work in a machine shop and i gotta do with what I've got.
center pin fits fine. and has enough wiggle room in case i need to move it a little forward or back
Looks pretty solid to me.
A little more view from the top side. Yes i know the nuts aren't tightened. i haven't tightened them yet.
I will continue the axle build as soon as i go buy the nuts and lock washers that hold the brake components on to the axle. Apparently the shop forgot to include those and they are too far away for me to get them. It'd probably cost less to buy at my local nut and bolt store then all the gas i'd spend going to pick up the 8 nuts and washers they owe me. oh well. I'll post pix once i get that situated with.
Here's my dad working his magic with the mathematical angles and other stuff. He trust me and my welds but we both felt it would be best if he were to create my trailer tongue and weld it in place properly since he has so much more experience then me. Plus I wanted him to stick weld these since his machine gets extremely deep penetration into the metal.
He cut the tube with the acetylene torch because the chop saw takes too long to cut 1/4" tube but he didnt cut it all the way through he left 1 of the sides uncut so he could heat up the metal and bend the tube shut closing the gap as you can see here.
Test fitting into the toyota chassis
Better pic. As you can see in this pic the tube will actually slide into the Toyota chassis. This will allow my dad to throw in a few welds on the inner portion of the chassis with his stick welder for reinforcement then seal the deal with welding it on the outside. We still need to cut the pieces that will close that 2.5" gap from the top of the chassis to the top of that 2"x2" tube.
More cuts to attach the side sides to the center tube which will become the tow hitch
Pieces all cut out
Time to weld it all together. We didnt attach it to the frame yet because he had to leave the house. But for now the tongue is all welded together. Tomorrow we will continue with finishing the tongue and welding it to the chassis.
Drilled out the ubolt holes to 5/8" and the center pin hole to i believe 3/4". Yes that is a syringe. No needle but it works great for adding oil when drilling out the holes for lubrication.
Not the prettiest of creations but i don't work in a machine shop and i gotta do with what I've got.
center pin fits fine. and has enough wiggle room in case i need to move it a little forward or back
Looks pretty solid to me.
A little more view from the top side. Yes i know the nuts aren't tightened. i haven't tightened them yet.
I will continue the axle build as soon as i go buy the nuts and lock washers that hold the brake components on to the axle. Apparently the shop forgot to include those and they are too far away for me to get them. It'd probably cost less to buy at my local nut and bolt store then all the gas i'd spend going to pick up the 8 nuts and washers they owe me. oh well. I'll post pix once i get that situated with.
Here's my dad working his magic with the mathematical angles and other stuff. He trust me and my welds but we both felt it would be best if he were to create my trailer tongue and weld it in place properly since he has so much more experience then me. Plus I wanted him to stick weld these since his machine gets extremely deep penetration into the metal.
He cut the tube with the acetylene torch because the chop saw takes too long to cut 1/4" tube but he didnt cut it all the way through he left 1 of the sides uncut so he could heat up the metal and bend the tube shut closing the gap as you can see here.
Test fitting into the toyota chassis
Better pic. As you can see in this pic the tube will actually slide into the Toyota chassis. This will allow my dad to throw in a few welds on the inner portion of the chassis with his stick welder for reinforcement then seal the deal with welding it on the outside. We still need to cut the pieces that will close that 2.5" gap from the top of the chassis to the top of that 2"x2" tube.
More cuts to attach the side sides to the center tube which will become the tow hitch
Pieces all cut out
Time to weld it all together. We didnt attach it to the frame yet because he had to leave the house. But for now the tongue is all welded together. Tomorrow we will continue with finishing the tongue and welding it to the chassis.
Redeth005
Adventurer
My dad bought a 220v plasma cutter today. That this thing is awesome. Cuts tube like butter and i think it's supposed to be able to cut up to 3/4" thick. I sure could have used this thing the other day lol
After feeling how much weight i have on the trailer I decided not to go with the extra gas storage; This trailer is going to be heavy as it is when i finish the build and I don't need to carry an extra 15-17 gallons of gas anyway. If I absolutely need it I can always use the 5 gallon Jerry can that is mounted to the rear tire swing on my 4Runner. So we decided to cut the stock gas can mount off.
Next up we hammered in the new tongue into the Toyota chassis. Measured about 3 times then tacked it into place.
Close up of how nice that welder penetrates all the way through. You can see the glow on the outer portion of the chassis as my dad welds the tongue into the inner portion of the chassis.
Other side
After he finished welding the tongue in place i added a small 16 gauge cross-member in the front/on top of the tongue where the chassis finishes. Not so much to hold any weight, but mainly to close the rest of the gap and so the front cargo box has something to sit on top of.
But i gotta say welding all these pieces to this weird shaped Toyota chassis made things really off and difficult to make look pretty. So out of the entire trailer this transition part from tongue to chassis is the about the only part that looks ugly. But oh well i kinda expected it to be difficult.
This is just a preview of what the trailer looks like with the front cargo box sitting in place and the rear bottom cargo frame in place as well. It's going to be nice.
I plan to make a propane tank holder on the front triangle part of the tongue when i finish. the tricky part will be creating something with an anti-theft device for keeping people from stealing my tank when we are on the campgrounds or out wheeling while this thing is alone back at camp.
For now that is the way the trailer will sit until i can get started on welding on the water storage brackets that hold the 15 gallon tank in place followed by the front storage box. I can't wait to start getting the cargo boxes fixed into place. That's when the real progress will take off.
After feeling how much weight i have on the trailer I decided not to go with the extra gas storage; This trailer is going to be heavy as it is when i finish the build and I don't need to carry an extra 15-17 gallons of gas anyway. If I absolutely need it I can always use the 5 gallon Jerry can that is mounted to the rear tire swing on my 4Runner. So we decided to cut the stock gas can mount off.
Next up we hammered in the new tongue into the Toyota chassis. Measured about 3 times then tacked it into place.
Close up of how nice that welder penetrates all the way through. You can see the glow on the outer portion of the chassis as my dad welds the tongue into the inner portion of the chassis.
Other side
After he finished welding the tongue in place i added a small 16 gauge cross-member in the front/on top of the tongue where the chassis finishes. Not so much to hold any weight, but mainly to close the rest of the gap and so the front cargo box has something to sit on top of.
But i gotta say welding all these pieces to this weird shaped Toyota chassis made things really off and difficult to make look pretty. So out of the entire trailer this transition part from tongue to chassis is the about the only part that looks ugly. But oh well i kinda expected it to be difficult.
This is just a preview of what the trailer looks like with the front cargo box sitting in place and the rear bottom cargo frame in place as well. It's going to be nice.
I plan to make a propane tank holder on the front triangle part of the tongue when i finish. the tricky part will be creating something with an anti-theft device for keeping people from stealing my tank when we are on the campgrounds or out wheeling while this thing is alone back at camp.
For now that is the way the trailer will sit until i can get started on welding on the water storage brackets that hold the 15 gallon tank in place followed by the front storage box. I can't wait to start getting the cargo boxes fixed into place. That's when the real progress will take off.