Safety chain attachment on the Jeep

[Shakey]

I want to tow my M416 with my TJ Unlimited using my Currie rear bumper:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=2620

This bumper was obviously never designed to be used to tow a trailer, and there are no safety chain attachments. However, I know there are many people who have safely towed a M416, or similar, trailer with this bumper.

What are the options for adding safety chain attachments to the bumper or even under the bumper on the frame (which on a TJ, is a fairly thin rear crossmember).

Obviously I could weld a number of attachments on the face of the bumper.
I could also drill two large holes in the bumper and just add a quick link. But I'm trying to think of options where I don't have to drill/weld to the bumper.

What about eye bolts? I could easily replace two of the bumper mounting bolts with large eye bolts, but what size?

Other options?

 

[Ted_Z]

I'm guessing that that bumper is not "officially" rated to be a tow bumper. That's not to say it would do fine.

What about eye bolts? I could easily replace two of the bumper mounting bolts with large eye bolts, but what size?

Something like p/n 3014T259 from www.mcmaster.com should work, 2600 pound working load.

Other options?

Have your local welder add some tabs or loops for your safety chains. Also consider adding some frame tie-ins.

 

[Shakey]

Forgot to add that I already have frame tie-ins, and I added extra through bolts and backing plates when I mounted the bumper. I think the bumper itself will handle what I'm pulling. I just want to make sure I have adequate mounting for the safety chains.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

FWIW, I'm using my rear recovery points as my safety chain attachments. Just a thought.

 

[Shakey]

My rear recovery points are my receiver (with the Warn shackle mount) and a hook bolted to the factory location on the outside frame rail. None of those will work in this situation.

 

[Hill Bill E.]

Do you have access to a torch or plasma cutter?

I have made 'keyholes' in bumpers, then feed the bare end (no hook) saftey chain into it.

Like so:

The bumper would have to be heavy enough so that making the keyholes won't comprimise the strength.

 

[greentruck]

If you put a adapter in that lets you use one of the combination ball and pintle hitches, then there's an easy solution. Get what Uncle Sam calls a "chain plate." This bolts between a pintle and the mounting point and provides two "ears" with holes to hook the safety chains up.

Here's where I got mine:
http://www.tnjmurray.com/m151.cfm
Use Find to look for "chain plate" or "11639657" as it's a ways down the page. It's part 3 in the illustration at this link:
http://www.tnjmurray.com/pictures/Figure_95.jpg

 

[Shakey]

Do you have access to a torch or plasma cutter?

I have made 'keyholes' in bumpers, then feed the bare end (no hook) saftey chain into it.

The bumper would have to be heavy enough so that making the keyholes won't comprimise the strength.

Good option, I hadn't seen that before but I like it.

If you put a adapter in that lets you use one of the combination ball and pintle hitches, then there's an easy solution. Get what Uncle Sam calls a "chain plate." This bolts between a pintle and the mounting point and provides two "ears" with holes to hook the safety chains up.

I've seen a lot of people tow like that, but doesn't it defeat the purpose of safety chains? Shouldn't the safety chains be attached somewhere different than the hitch? That way, if the hitch fails (which offroad, the hitch seems to be the weakest point since it's the point most likely to hit the most rocks), the safety chains are still effective.

 

[greentruck]

With the chain plate, it depends on what kind of failure you're intending to protect against.

Used as in the illustrated link, when used with adequate safety chains, the chain plate will protect against failure of the pintle and the lunette.

For the chain plate to fail, it would take something that would break all 4 bolts holding the pintle casting to the frame (at least on LandCruisers) or tearing out both loops on the plate.

When a chain plate is used with an adapter hitch and a receiver as I described, then all this does depend on the strength of the hitch pin, so it would not be ideal. But with the load you'll put on it with a M416, you'll have lots a overkill as far as strength with this set of components. I don't know what the strength of a 2" receiver hitch pin is, but I expect that as a weak link, it's also probably equally overkill.

The other failure mode would be loss of the rear crossmember or say, the towbar assembly itself depending on the particular mounting arrangement used with a hitch. Pretty unlikely, but most other arrangements would also have a safety chain failure under such circumstances.

 

[roadkill]

do a search on the jeep boards but if I'm not mistake that bumper needs to be beefed up to tow with due to the design of the receiver on the bumper. the stress of towing, especially offroad causes the receiver to buckle

 

[highlandercj-7]

I would sell the bumper and step up to one that is better suited for your needs. That basic bumper is not all it's cracked up to be. You can get a replacement for near same $$ as a quality reciever hitch. I'd get one with a reciever and d-ring shackle mounts at a minimum. I use my D-rings to attach my trailers safety chains. I also made extension chains, so if I haul someone else's trailer with shorter chains they will reach my D-rings.
This one will give you an idea f what to look for. You can buy the dring brackets and weld them to your current bumper too.

 

[Shakey]

You know that that bumper is a knock-off of the Currie bumper, the bumper I currently have, right?

I am using real safety chains. But you make a good point. Some of the replies in this thread and posts here scare me a little knowing that people tow the way they do.

I ended up drilling two holes in the rear cross member, plating the rear cross member for strength, and attaching the safety chains there for now. I will eventually buy or build a new bumper because the current method loses some ground clearance.

 

[Dirty_Jeeper]

My solution came from eBay for $150 new in the box, Smittybilt bumper with tire carrier. Lucky for me the seller was 7 miles away so no shipping required. Class III rated hitch with safety chain points.

 

[Z Bronco]

The rear bumper on my early bronco is an older Hanson bumper which used to be the maker of the early Currie bumpers. I have towed my M416 behind the bronco and several other vehicles using the following setup for safety chains. The Pintle Hook uses four bolts to attach to the receiver. Two of these bolts are longer in my setup and since the hooks are not on my M416 chains I run the bolt through one loop of the chain and use a washer and nut and the setup is secure. If I pull the pin of the receiver/pintle hook, all can be removed without removing the chains. I keep an wrench for regular hookup and disconnect of the chains to the receiver/PH. I have had the state police in my state see this setup and there is not been a problem.

 

[kevinofcamelot]

What I did to make my LJ bumper a lot stronger and trailer worthy was purchase the rear cross member re-inforcement plate from GenRight welded that on then welded two extra brackets on my bumper to attach to the rear cross member with grade 8 hardware..