Scout Camper

jackca

New member
We picked up our Kenai last month, and while we will enjoy and put our camper to good use I must say I've been pretty disappointed with Scout / Adventure.

First though, I love the concept of the minimal truck camper. We chose a Scout camper largely because of what it DIDN'T include. I've spent a lot of time working on boats, and know how much maintenance things like running water and septic systems take in the long run. Scout is one of the only players in the truck camper space really focusing on simplicity, and on that they do deliver.

BUT there's a fine line between minimalism and cutting corners. While I haven't found anything that can't be worked around, it's been enough to leave a sour taste in our mouths. That coupled with dismissive responses from Scout has me wanting to let you know about our experience.

The first thing I noticed was the mattress for the rooftop tent is completely missing upholstery. The main bed mattress and all the cushions downstairs have covers, while the mattress for the rooftop tent is literally just a cut out of raw foam. It even has sharpie marks on it from the templating! (https://postimg.cc/Pvb83xHw). While there aren't many pictures of the interior of the tent on their website... now I know why... there are multiple pictures that appear to show an upholstered mattress (https://postimg.cc/gallery/6n7BY99). We have family with the RoofNest on their SUV and can confirm the retail tent does have a mattress cover... as you would expect. If you've never done custom upholstery this may seem like nitpicking, but upholstery is skilled work and is expensive / time consuming (pick one). Ryan from Scout pointed out that they would have to account for the access hatch which would be more complicated than a regular cover. So the solution is just to leave it out altogether and disguise the fact on your website?

Another thing came up recently while I was looking into getting the battery charged using the truck alternator while driving. This is a pretty standard feature in the RV world, as the 7 pin connector used for DOT lights also delivers 12v power from the engine. I asked about it when picking up from the dealer, who said yes, most do this but Scout does not. Instead they give you a small (~100w) cigarette lighter adapter and you can take the Yeti into the truck and charge it. This gets old quickly, so I started tracing the wiring looking for a way to connect the adapter to the 7 pin connection that is already coming into the camper. To my surprise I find that there actually IS wiring from the 7 pin, all the way to the Yeti, which ends in a loose (disconnected) proprietary plug with Goal Zero branding. BUT, there is nowhere to plug it in on the Yeti. It turns out that the battery would charge from the 7 pin, but it requires a $400 module from Goal Zero. It's like they did all the work to implement a fairly standard feature, then realized how much the Goal Zero component cost and thought "why should we spend the money? we'll just make the buyer figure out what we've done and buy it himself".

If you've already put a deposit down on your Scout, I don't want to discourage you too much. If minimalism and simplicity were the biggest selling points, as they were for us, then none of this will be a deal breaker. It isn't for us, it's just disappointing relative to how the campers are represented online. We probably would not have paid up for the rooftop tent though.

If you're just looking, my strong advise is not to go off what you see online. Find a way to see one in person, preferably with the options you want. Pay attention to the details, how things will actually work in practice, and decide if the rough edges are worth it.

I wish Scout would spend as much time polishing the practical details of their campers as they seem to be spending polishing their website and photography.
 

svinyard

Active member
While these things were mildly annoying, they are entirely non-issues personally for us (and we spent like 11 weekends in our Scout in a row when we got it...with 4 of us). My wife fixed the mattress cover quick. She cut out the cut-out in the cover we bought and then used fabric spray-on glue to attach the top to the cutout foam. My wife is also adept at complaining about stuff, she's not complained about this aside from the first time.

The charge controller thing was a supply chain issue when they spec'd these. Goal Zero didn't have a functioning charge controller for it yet. Then their EC8 cable went under a recall. You don't want to charge using your 7-pin anyways, which is why people run a custom line in the other camper styles...you'd get a measly 90w out of the small gauge stuff in your 7-pin. That's less than your cigarette port would do. Its just stock truck wiring isn't meant for this. Its a common thing for any slide-in with a sweet battery. You'll have to do the wiring on your truck yourself or get a upfitter/dealer to do it. Use 6awg wiring and you'll be good and instead of 90w you'll pull like 500w-600w. Always been that way if you wanted real charge rate.

If the charge module came stock, I guess I might be interested but they would just charge for me for it from Scout. Not everyone needs it and I'd rather not pay for it unless I found I needed it. Plus not everyone wants to use GoalZero's controller. Its a 10 minute install to DIY if you do. If you want it, buy it. No big deal. Nice that they wired it in for it tho. I think a Victron will run you around 300$-350$ for similar 750w support.

Note that the GoalZero 1500X is pretty damn sweet dude. My sisters 200k$ sprinter van just came with two lead-acid batteries. Sure they'll work better at freezing temps, but they don't last long and you only get like 60% efficiency out of those. The GoalZero gives you 90% efficiency and a 120ah iirc. Its not like they went cheap there like the other camper manuf's do. Its legit in my opinion.

The only thing that bothers me to today is my drain port is a bit small and Its not flush with the bottom of the drain pan. I have to ensure my campers on a bit of an angle for it to drain well. That is annoying me, tho since my camper sticks out 6" or so past my tailgate, I think I'll just drill a hole in the floor and put one of my drift boat plugs into it. Should do the trick.

Nevertheless, don't let the 5% that's not perfect distract you from the 95% that is pretty sweet. Compared to everything else we looked into (for 4 people) this is WAAAY better.

While people say its a minimalist camper, I greatly disagree. Ours is significantly more capable that most. I can go out for a week or 2 and: use the toilet the whole time, shower as much as I want after MTB rides for 4 of us (stream/lake access), stay cool with efficient fans, grab water from the creek, sleep 4 damn people (or stinking buddy up top), charge battery on the fly (solar or cig charger), pack all fishing and MTB gear for 4 of us and its under 2k lbs. Features be damned, I'm all about capability and it has that in spades. Its a sweet setup.
 

GeorgeHayduke

Active member
We have a Kenai as well and have basically the same feelings as @jackca (low-medium build quality) and @svinyard (there's nothing else out there like it). I was also put off by the bare foam in the RTT and found a lot of issues with plywood voids, bubbles/bumps in the composite walls, etc. Ours feels a lot like a prototype camper rather than a mature design. I also think covid related supply shortages hit them while they were struggle to keep up with promised delivery timelines.
Some more details here: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/scout-olympic-vs-kenai.218045/post-2896480

We were also pretty underwhelmed by the cold weather capabilities which was actually our original motivation for getting the Kenai. The Dickinson heater looks awesome but just barely keeps up when the temp gets below 20F. All the doors and hatches are quite flimsy and drafty. The big external hatches on the passenger side and rear pass through hatch provide great storage but also tons of heat loss since they're not insulated.
More details on winter ski trips with the Kenai here: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/scout-olympic-vs-kenai.218045/post-2912342

That all being said, I still get excited about the Kenai. We like the minimalist philosophy about it after fighting failing RV systems for years. It's surprisingly roomy inside and is a great option for families with the RTT. Agreed that the Yeti 1500X is great and I actually don't mind not being connected to the truck as we've been able to get by strictly on solar power.

It's probably best compared against a DIY option starting with one of the Total Composite boxes. I think I could have spent 6 months building one of those and ended up with a similar total cost, similar (or worse) build quality, and one less season of camping with the kids. It's not an Arctic Fox/Northern Lite with fancy cabinetry and it's not at the quality level or price tag of an Earthcruiser/OEV camper. If you think if it as a good starting point for further modification/customization I think it's still a compelling option.
 

cobro92

Active member
Man I was really considering going in the Kenai direction for my winter backcountry ski rig but at this point from the reviews above it sounds like really the only true four season turnkey options are going to be Northern Lite/Bigfoot. Much more expensive when new but can be had for a similar price as the Kenai if found lightly used. They are also much heavier, which is definitely a con but I don’t see many other options.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

svinyard

Active member
@GeorgeHayduke the winter heating also has me a bit concerned as well. I've seen a number of Olympics doing a LOT of ski camping at resorts (a guy I know works for Rossignol and uses it nearly every weekend in the winter) and also for some backcountry missions. He has his little kids/wife with him half the time. I assumed it was all good but never asked him about the details.

Were you just never able to get the thing warm enough, even after a long time? I've heard it takes a while in cold so some start the fire sooner. I've got that Caframo fan in mine, would just some circulating air help make it doable?
 

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
@GeorgeHayduke the winter heating also has me a bit concerned as well. I've seen a number of Olympics doing a LOT of ski camping at resorts (a guy I know works for Rossignol and uses it nearly every weekend in the winter) and also for some backcountry missions. He has his little kids/wife with him half the time. I assumed it was all good but never asked him about the details.

Were you just never able to get the thing warm enough, even after a long time? I've heard it takes a while in cold so some start the fire sooner. I've got that Caframo fan in mine, would just some circulating air help make it doable?


The gas heater is mounted too high. You can make them work by installing a circulation fan to get the warm air to the floor. My pick would be a diesel heater mounted down low.
As for the condensation and ice build up on the inside:
Not too long ago they had a statement on their site that claimed to be condensation free and why condensation is very bad. I guess they took it down....
 

GeorgeHayduke

Active member
I agree with @Victorian that the heater is mounted too high. The cabover is warm enough but the floor is very cold. Most other campers have the furnace blowing hot air out at floor level.

@svinyard and @cobro92 I think the Kenai is actually a lot harder to heat than the Olympic. It's bigger and has a lot more weak points in the insulation but the same BTU heater. None of the exterior hatches are insulated and the Kenai has a larger passenger side compartment than the Olympic plus the extra rear pass through door. Also, the cassette toilet on the Kenai introduces an additional uninsulated door hatch. Finally the heater position in the Kenai is also angled in a way that makes it hard to get warm air into the rear mudroom.

This coming winter I'm planning to use a small fan, add insulation to the hatch doors, and maybe stick one of those 12V heater mats on the floor. If that's not enough then we'll try a separate diesel heater.

Lastly, one piece of this discussion that gets overlooked is just the size of the heater. The Dickinson heater in the Scout is only 4.5k BTUs. In FWC Hawk or an OEV Camp X I think the heaters are 12k BTUs or more. That's a lot of heat output to make up for with insulation alone. The flip side is we've found the propane supply lasts a really long time. Not unreasonable to a few more BTUs with another heat source.
 

svinyard

Active member
I'm hoping a fan does the trick (and a bit of extra warmup time). I'm not concerned about the side hatch. Its a compartment of stuff/air and then another wall and cushions between it and the interior space of the camper. My engineering buddies are quick to remind me that air has an R-value of 3.6. It just seems like a case of the heater needing help to keep up or some circulation. I'll be irritated we are freaking freezing in there this ski season.

My sister has a big diesel heater in their very fancy Sprinter van. Its properly place and works but parts of the van are blazing hot and other parts are super freaking cold (down low). Its worked for them resort camping in Jackson (where else do you take a sprinter?) but its not a perfect setup yet. They are looking for fans as well.

Little strips of condensation on the edges don't bother me. Tho I've not had it at like 15d yet
 
Last edited:

ccourtney

New member
I have a Kenai on order due for June 2022. For the price point of the Kenai fully loaded I am afraid of quality control issues. One of the big reasons I chose this camper was the minimalist design and modularity. I have 2 small children and my wife that will be adventuring together. There arent that many truck campers in the less than 2k price range that offer the amount of sleeping arrangements and features as the Kenai fully loaded. For close to 40k dollars I would expect quality to be top notch....

How are the tie down points on the kenai? It seems like a 2k pound camper would have more than ratchet straps being secured to tie downs in a bed of a truck expecting 500 pounds per tie down point. Has anyone experimented with attaching tie down points on the exterior and use the torklift frame mount and turn buckle system?
 

GeorgeHayduke

Active member
The ratchet system has been working well for us and I like how streamlined it is and that there are no turnbuckles blocking the fuel tank. I find we have to tighten it up occasionally as the fabric stretches, but it's no worse than checking on turnbuckles. My only complaint is that the attachment point is further inboard than most other truck campers so I don't think you have as good of leverage to control sway. Unless you had a flatbed, I think the bedsides would be in the way of trying to attach to a conventional torklift or happijac system.

I do wonder if you could move the ratchet attachment point further outboard though by using the cam lock holes...
PXL_20210219_194127174.jpg
 

ccourtney

New member
Looks like I will give the factory tie downs a shot. Worst Case drill a few holes and have a reinforced backing plate with eyelet bolts similar to FWC setup. I went and saw a demo unit a couple days ago and was satisfied with everything. Not the best quality but not the worst; it will do. A lot more room than I thought! Definitely going to forego the awning and install my own after I get it. Going with a National Luna 72L as well. June Delivery can't come fast enough!
 

ccourtney

New member
Has anybody installed a different awning than the Rhino Batwing? Curious to see if anybody has experience with another awning with more coverage and a more robust setup. I have been looking at Alucab 270 and Zero23 Perigrine 270? Being that the Rhino is so small and high up on the hard sided camper the coverage looks inadequate, and failure with the slightest wind looks inevitable.
 

simple

Adventurer
We picked up our Kenai last month, and while we will enjoy and put our camper to good use I must say I've been pretty disappointed with Scout / Adventure.

First though, I love the concept of the minimal truck camper. We chose a Scout camper largely because of what it DIDN'T include. I've spent a lot of time working on boats, and know how much maintenance things like running water and septic systems take in the long run. Scout is one of the only players in the truck camper space really focusing on simplicity, and on that they do deliver.

BUT there's a fine line between minimalism and cutting corners. While I haven't found anything that can't be worked around, it's been enough to leave a sour taste in our mouths. That coupled with dismissive responses from Scout has me wanting to let you know about our experience.

The first thing I noticed was the mattress for the rooftop tent is completely missing upholstery. The main bed mattress and all the cushions downstairs have covers, while the mattress for the rooftop tent is literally just a cut out of raw foam. It even has sharpie marks on it from the templating! (https://postimg.cc/Pvb83xHw). While there aren't many pictures of the interior of the tent on their website... now I know why... there are multiple pictures that appear to show an upholstered mattress (https://postimg.cc/gallery/6n7BY99). We have family with the RoofNest on their SUV and can confirm the retail tent does have a mattress cover... as you would expect. If you've never done custom upholstery this may seem like nitpicking, but upholstery is skilled work and is expensive / time consuming (pick one). Ryan from Scout pointed out that they would have to account for the access hatch which would be more complicated than a regular cover. So the solution is just to leave it out altogether and disguise the fact on your website?

Another thing came up recently while I was looking into getting the battery charged using the truck alternator while driving. This is a pretty standard feature in the RV world, as the 7 pin connector used for DOT lights also delivers 12v power from the engine. I asked about it when picking up from the dealer, who said yes, most do this but Scout does not. Instead they give you a small (~100w) cigarette lighter adapter and you can take the Yeti into the truck and charge it. This gets old quickly, so I started tracing the wiring looking for a way to connect the adapter to the 7 pin connection that is already coming into the camper. To my surprise I find that there actually IS wiring from the 7 pin, all the way to the Yeti, which ends in a loose (disconnected) proprietary plug with Goal Zero branding. BUT, there is nowhere to plug it in on the Yeti. It turns out that the battery would charge from the 7 pin, but it requires a $400 module from Goal Zero. It's like they did all the work to implement a fairly standard feature, then realized how much the Goal Zero component cost and thought "why should we spend the money? we'll just make the buyer figure out what we've done and buy it himself".

If you've already put a deposit down on your Scout, I don't want to discourage you too much. If minimalism and simplicity were the biggest selling points, as they were for us, then none of this will be a deal breaker. It isn't for us, it's just disappointing relative to how the campers are represented online. We probably would not have paid up for the rooftop tent though.

If you're just looking, my strong advise is not to go off what you see online. Find a way to see one in person, preferably with the options you want. Pay attention to the details, how things will actually work in practice, and decide if the rough edges are worth it.

I wish Scout would spend as much time polishing the practical details of their campers as they seem to be spending polishing their website and photography.


Regarding the 12V power in your 7 pin on the truck side. Is this on a relay that closes the circuit when your truck is running? How many amps is it rated for? When I think about an alternator charging a battery, it is a much thicker wire than I see in a trailer wire harness which makes me question what the purpose would be for on an RV. The only thing I can think of is that it can charge the tiny backup battery on an electric trailer brake system.
 

Skiestasnolas

New member
I have a Scout Olympic w/ the Yeti Goal Zero 1500x... A few weeks ago I lost power from the 12V output on a ski trip. The 12v output powers the heating fan, internal lights, and we had the fridge running on the 12V. We were able to switch the fridge to AC and use flashlights but the lack of a heating fan was no fun. Goal Zero support was quick but there is no reboot or fix for our problem...just a bad unit. Has anyone else experienced issues w/ the 12v output on the 1500x? I also noticed when the temp drops around 32F the charging input goes wayyyy down.

We are stuck for weeks waiting on a special "lithium box" from Goal Zero to ship it back...then a few more weeks before a new battery is shipped back. Not ideal.
 

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