So, I really like burbs and blazers...

[BIGdaddy]

If you are going to run an old rig you must accept the great deal of maintenance as a result of old design technology. Doesn't matter if you are talking GM, Ford or Chrysler. To complain about upkeep on a 20 year old vehicle that was actually designed on paper in the late 60's for their launch in 1973 seems silly to me. What do you expect? What happens when you buy an old house?

My house was built in 1959. Mikes been there. It's solid as a rock, actually.

As far as cars go, my personal vehicle is a 1992 Jeep cherokee that just turned 200k miles today, actually. To date (4 years of ownership and 60,000 miles), I've replaced the following:

-radiator
-alternator
-Battery
-Thermostat

And that's about it. All these things looked to be original 20 year old parts, or at the least, very freakin' old.

All windows work, all door locks work, original trans, engine, axles, etc.

I take care of ALL my vehicles rigorously as my budget allows, so I don't think thats a factor.

I'm not complaining about what I've had to do at all, because these are honest repairs that haven't effected overall daily driver/long road tripability one bit...

On the contrary, my two GM rigs from the same era, had issue after issue, that had me borrowing vehicles, using rental cars, and spending $$$. I ended up not being able to rely on them.

Lemme reiterate that I LOVE the style of these rigs, and I think that's what makes my experience with them dissapointing. I definitely appreciate the info you posted!

Cheers! -B

 

[BurbanAZ]

in my opinion the 90s american trucks are just the perfect blend of reliability, and older school workability. They feel comfortable but are still cake to work on, its like they were some of the last years where it feels like they made a vehicle knowing u would own it long enough to have to work on something at some point and that u would probably do it urself. Its just the simple stuff like if there is a bolt and there is a support or something right next to it so u cant fit a tool in there, they cut a hole so u can put a socket with an extension through, instead of trying to sell u some specialty tool. I have a 2000 bmw 328ci. Fun little car to drive, low miles only 70k but i almost dont want to drive it because if something breaks its expensive and a royal pain to fix. With the 90s american trucks everything is easy to work on, cheap, and easy to find and i think these trucks will last every bit as long as the imported vehicles.

 

[ExpoMike]

Hey Mike, do you find that's true with somewhat recognizeable classics as an old 3-door suburban (what Melissa wants..haha) or a 1955 chevy sedan (Like I used to have, and kick myself for selling)

Hey Brian. What part do I find true? The insurance part or the parts part? Insurance is a big problem. My '65 C10 truck, if someone hit and totalled it, I would likely walk away with a $1000 as most insurance companies only see it as a 40+ year old truck of no real value. Almost all of the classic car insurance companies require the vehicle to be garage kept and limit yearly mileage and usage.

As for parts, bone stock, you are likely to find common wear parts (brakes, tune up stuff, etc.) but things like door seals, window regulators, etc. will require you to order from specialty vendors. As for availability of these type of parts, it all depends on the popularity of the vehicle. Downside is even with a popular vehicle, many of the parts are made in China and are poor quality. For hard parts, many times I will search for a used original GM part than an aftermarket part if I can. Problem with that is since the Cash for Clunkers program, most vintage vehicles in the junk yards got scrapped to make room for these "later model" clunkers. Yards are filled with '80's vehicles that no one want parts for.

Once you start putting in "other model/year" part to update a rig, keep a VERY well detailed list of what year/make/model you used. A kit car I was building years ago, the brake system alone had part from 7 different vehicles and still had a few custom parts. I am finding I use NAPA much more since they still have some of the old books to look up stuff that is not in the computer.

 

[TheEstablishment]

You might look into Agreed Value insurance. You basically tell the insurance company what it is worth, and they charge you based on that value. If it gets totalled, that's what they pay out. It might be a bit more expensive, but at least you are covered.

 

[BIGdaddy]

Hey Brian. What part do I find true? The insurance part or the parts part? Insurance is a big problem. My '65 C10 truck, if someone hit and totalled it, I would likely walk away with a $1000 as most insurance companies only see it as a 40+ year old truck of no real value. Almost all of the classic car insurance companies require the vehicle to be garage kept and limit yearly mileage and usage.

As for parts, bone stock, you are likely to find common wear parts (brakes, tune up stuff, etc.) but things like door seals, window regulators, etc. will require you to order from specialty vendors. As for availability of these type of parts, it all depends on the popularity of the vehicle. Downside is even with a popular vehicle, many of the parts are made in China and are poor quality. For hard parts, many times I will search for a used original GM part than an aftermarket part if I can. Problem with that is since the Cash for Clunkers program, most vintage vehicles in the junk yards got scrapped to make room for these "later model" clunkers. Yards are filled with '80's vehicles that no one want parts for.

Once you start putting in "other model/year" part to update a rig, keep a VERY well detailed list of what year/make/model you used. A kit car I was building years ago, the brake system alone had part from 7 different vehicles and still had a few custom parts. I am finding I use NAPA much more since they still have some of the old books to look up stuff that is not in the computer.

Yeah, sorry for the lack of clarity, I was asking about insurance..you nailed it, though, thanks!

 

[ExpoMike]

You might look into Agreed Value insurance. You basically tell the insurance company what it is worth, and they charge you based on that value. If it gets totalled, that's what they pay out. It might be a bit more expensive, but at least you are covered.

Most of them require garaging, which can't be done. I can't even get them to agree to being on my side yard pad, under a car port, behind a locked gate with a dog outside. They all tell me, it has to be in a garage. As it is, it lives on the street.

 

[Calplaya]

I have a 1989 Suburban that is dang reliable. I have almost 150k miles on it, and it hasnt given me one issue yet, and I bought it with 130k. I repainted it and have bigger plans for it later too, but yeah, I cant believe how awesome mine has been. My former roommate and best friend has a 91 (same thing pretty much) and his has almost as many miles, had a head gasket go out, but other then that, no issues. Head gasket failure is very common with these older Burbans tho, I have another friend who bought an 89 Burban with its head gasket already out, he replaced it, and now he drives it every day, no issues. I think you need a better mechanic, but I just like doing things myself, so I know its done right.