SOFpirate's 1996 Montero LS buildthread.

[off-roader]

Looks like a fun trip. You really need a snorkel with water crossings like that . Especially nice when you can show up other 'Trail Rated' rigs like you did.:ylsmoke:

 

[scrubber3]

Those jeepers should be careful crossing water and letting it splash. I can't tell you how many times I've seen them intake water from the smallest of puddles. The intake inlet is too vulnerable. Looks like you had some fun!

 

[SOFpirate]

Those jeepers should be careful crossing water and letting it splash. I can't tell you how many times I've seen them intake water from the smallest of puddles. The intake inlet is too vulnerable. Looks like you had some fun!

Tell me about it. I tried to warn them, along with the guy in the built XJ. We've had enough experiences with making too big of splashes. I know that's exactly how the water got sucked in the 1st time. They don't listen ... to them it's all about the mud puddle splash. That's fine with me ... because then they get to sweat it out while the water get's pumped out of the engine.

 

[off-roader]

Tell me about it. I tried to warn them, along with the guy in the built XJ. We've had enough experiences with making too big of splashes. I know that's exactly how the water got sucked in the 1st time. They don't listen ... to them it's all about the mud puddle splash. That's fine with me ... because then they get to sweat it out while the water get's pumped out of the engine.

On my '09 Mojave Trail trip (http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...alifornia-October-10-12-2009?highlight=Mojave) a 2 month old Jeep Grand Cherokee broke a rod when he ingested water during a hub deep stream crossing. Jeep would not warranty it even though the water level was below their suggested max water level. Numerous other rigs including multiple Montero's, Pathfinder, Dodge Ram pickup, FJ Cruiser, etc. made the same crossing and none had issues.

 

[SOFpirate]

********!

Now when it comes to aftermarket support ... and rock crawling and just plain out humping and bumping, a jeep will make a Montero look stupid. But then again ... I can take my 6 closest friends with me to watch the jeep explode.

 

[off-roader]

********!

Now when it comes to aftermarket support ... and rock crawling and just plain out humping and bumping, a jeep will make a Montero look stupid. But then again ... I can take my 6 closest friends with me to watch the jeep explode.

I think that mostly depends on the Montero... or perhaps I should call it by it's real name... a "Monstero"...

I'm working on getting to that level. Still need gears and a front locker, 3" BL and 37" tires.

 

[SOFpirate]

I would like to go on public record saying this:


I stand corrected. Also, I've created a new word. "Mitsuboner"

 

[SOFpirate]

I'm about to change the Diff fluid in the truck for the first time. I'm not worried about the procedure ... just what type to use.

In my owners manual (yes I still have it), it says 85W-90. What brands of fluids work well with these so I don't destroy my beloved rig?

 

[scrubber3]

Honestly, they do fine with pretty much whatever you want to use. Synthetic should last longer than mineral though. I switch mine out once a year so I use the cheap stuff. I change it so often due to the amount of water crossing I do.

 

[SOFpirate]

Yeah ... I figured while I did that ... I'd look at relocating my diff breather tubes.

After this last trip both diffs started to whine a little. Figured my "see how far the truck goes" experiment wouldn't apply to the axles. It worked for 200,000 miles on the original NGK plugs, though.

 

[scrubber3]

Yeah ... I figured while I did that ... I'd look at relocating my diff breather tubes.

After this last trip both diffs started to whine a little. Figured my "see how far the truck goes" experiment wouldn't apply to the axles. It worked for 200,000 miles on the original NGK plugs, though.

Those plugs had to have been replaced at some point. One of the previous owners of your rig must have replaced them with the NGKs so they knew what they were doing(or the tech that did it). Even iridium plugs would have crapped out way before 200,000 miles. IMHO the breather tubes are tucked in quite well and it is something that I am putting off until I change the Diff fluid next time. Then I will take into account of the water intrusion if any and proceed accordingly. On a side note.. I think it's great that you enjoy your rig so much.

 

[off-roader]

Diff lines are tied into the frame which is pretty resistant to water intrusion but it's easy enough to raise them higher if you really want to.

I don't recall where the xcase/tranny breathers go though.

As for the diff fluid, 90 weight is fine. As has been noted, synthetics will last longer but of course they are more $$$ so you need to balance that equation for yourself.
I change mine every couple of years anyway along with my tranny & xcase fluids.

 

[SOFpirate]

Yeah ... especially since the capacity of our rear axle alone is about the same size as my engine.

And before I do it, how do I found out if my rear end is truly a LSD? I mean ... I'm pretty sure the diff fluid has NEVER been changed, and I know that with the LSD additives broken down after that long the rear end will make it act like an open diff.

I know like in the Ford Exploders you can look for a "D2" code and tell it's a LSD 8.8 (can you tell I hang with a bunch of Jeepers?). I looked on all the door panels, in the owners manual, everywhere I would think to look to see any sort of rear axle code. I finally looked on the rear cover of the pumpkin and saw "M6B" through the dirt and mud. Tried googling it, and avast ... no answers as of yet. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[scrubber3]

Yeah ... especially since the capacity of our rear axle alone is about the same size as my engine.

And before I do it, how do I found out if my rear end is truly a LSD? I mean ... I'm pretty sure the diff fluid has NEVER been changed, and I know that with the LSD additives broken down after that long the rear end will make it act like an open diff.

I know like in the Ford Exploders you can look for a "D2" code and tell it's a LSD 8.8 (can you tell I hang with a bunch of Jeepers?). I looked on all the door panels, in the owners manual, everywhere I would think to look to see any sort of rear axle code. I finally looked on the rear cover of the pumpkin and saw "M6B" through the dirt and mud. Tried googling it, and avast ... no answers as of yet. Any help would be appreciated.

I am not positive, but I don't think the 2nd gen LS came with an LSD for the U.S.

 

[Inyo_man]

how do I found out if my rear end is truly a LSD?

A simple test is to first put the rear end on jack stands and block the front wheels.
Release the e-brake and put the transmission in N.
When you rotate one of the rear wheels and the other wheel rotates in the same direction, you have a LSD.

I'm running Amsoil Gear Lube 80W-90 in the differentials.
The LSD in the NM does not require friction modifiers because the LSD doesn't work via clutch plates.
I did extend my rear diff. breather, just for piece of mind. (Next on the list is the transmission and transfer case breathers.)