Stripped oil pan plug threads!?!

[Skidmarkart]

I know, I am an idiot for doing this, but I usually take my truck to one or the other of the cheap oil change spots around the corner from my house. Yes, I pay more, but it is easy and fast. I have always been warned not to go, and have never had any problems until now. This weekend I dropped the Monty off to get an oil change an got the call...

"The last guy who did this over torqued the bolt, the threads are stripped in the oil pan!"

Called the guys who did the last change and they swear they didn't over torque the bolt. I am sure you have heard this all before. In any case I am stuck with a oil pan bolt that will not tighten all the way.

I looked at the problem area. It screws in, feels like it is about to tighten, then suddenly looses it's grip when you start to torque it into place. I am really hoping that I can find a solution that doesn't involve the removal/replacement of the oil pan. I can tell just based on the amount of stuff in front of the pan this will be an expensive undertaking if I replace the pan (before I buy for parts). I have talked to a few mechanically inclined people about using a taper bolt to fix or rethread the hole... has anyone done this? I get the feeling that is a one-time-only, don't-******k-it-up kind of repair.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Clutch]

You can helicoil it.

Here is a tutorial on it.

Helicoil oil drain plug.

 

[JIMBO]

:sombrero: Why aren't they fixing it ?????

Nissan uses a Copper crush washer for they oil pan bolt--get one of them and it'll takeup some thread space and also seal-

Good luck

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO

 

[Skidmarkart]

Thanks guys -

I'd love to Helicoil it, but I really, really do not want to remove the pan. Actually the pan wouldn't be too bad, it is all the other stuff that would have to come too. I am hoping for a leave the pan on kind of solution. The Copper washer idea sounds good, and easy to try without ******king it up any more than they already did.

As to why they are not fixing it... don't you know, it is always the other guy's fault. The place that did the change offered to retap it for free, but honestly I am pretty sure that is the guys who messed it up (they use air wrenches for everything there). So, I would rather take my chances doing it myself.

I think in the future, I may start doing my own oil changes. It is only more convenient to have someone else do it if they do it right!

 

[Clutch]

If it is a steel oil pan (I don't know, never been under a Monty) You could retap it, and go with a bigger drain bolt. Stick a very strong magnet on the side of the tap to collect the metal shavings, then run some oil through it with the plug still off, to try and gather any shavings that might be on the inside.

Use a magnetic plug and oil filter, for just incase.

While not the best solution, as you risk getting metal shavings in the engine.

 

[JIMBO]

:sombrero: Heh Heh, yeah I can digit-

Thanks guys -

I'd love to Helicoil it, but I really, really do not want to remove the pan. Actually the pan wouldn't be too bad, it is all the other stuff that would have to come too. I am hoping for a leave the pan on kind of solution. The Copper washer idea sounds good, and easy to try without ******king it up any more than they already did.

As to why they are not fixing it... don't you know, it is always the other guy's fault. The place that did the change offered to retap it for free, but honestly I am pretty sure that is the guys who messed it up (they use air wrenches for everything there). So, I would rather take my changes doing it myself.

I think in the future, I may start doing my own oil changes. It is only more convenient to have someone else do it if they do it right!

I've been away from Nissan for years, but the Xterras used a copper crush washer on their pan bolt, so you might try that from Nissan, I don't know if you can getem from a parts store, but

The size might be OK--Good luck

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO

 

[sixbennetts]

I've retapped many. Good advice about the magnets above. One trick I learned from an old motor pool mechanic is to vice-grip the short end of a big Allen wrench, magnetize it, and use this to reach inside the pan and sweep the area inside for shavings. Neat little trick that might help.

I've done the same with a bent coat hanger. Good way to clean out any low areas below plug level. Use a regular screwdriver magnetizer to do it.

 

[Clutch]

:sombrero: Heh Heh, yeah I can digit-




I've been away from Nissan for years, but the Xterras used a copper crush washer on their pan bolt, so you might try that from Nissan, I don't know if you can getem from a parts store, but

The size might be OK--Good luck

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO

Amazingly, we have an ACE hardware here, that has a great selection of crush washers.

 

[rxinhed]

Dorman, available at some A/P stores, sells a self-tapping oversize drain plug for this reason.

 

[off-roader]

Dorman, available at some A/P stores, sells a self-tapping oversize drain plug for this reason.

Agreed.

Which quick lube place did this to you btw? I think folks here would like to know so the same thing doesn't happen to them.

I do take mine to a quick lube place. Speedee Oil & Tune Up in San Jose (on Tradezone) off of Montague. They aren't just a lube place and are much more technical than those. That said, they are middle of the road in terms of pricing so one shouldn't expect walmart prices there.

 

[turbolab]

u can get rubber plugs that expand when you tighten them at napa, i've never tried them but it's another option

 

[Skidmarkart]

After digging around a bit I think I am going to try a no-drill, no re-tapping solution before I go forward with anything that might get metal shavings in the engine.

Since the stripped threads appear to be in the back of the hole (which is why the bolt takes a little load before it rotates) I am going to try and get a "no-tool" plug from O'Reily, and add a thick copper washer to (hopefully) grab the threads a little earlier. Then I am going to put some kind of lighter "lock-tight" type of stuff to hold the plug in place. If it doesn't work, then I go back to the oversized self-tapping bolt and do my best to keep the metal out.

Yes, it will take forever to get all of the oil out when I change it, but that just means more time to drink beer :wings:

My only question is, what is the best sealant/locker to apply? I want something strong that will help hold the bolt in place and seal the hole, but nothing that is so permanent that I cannot remove the bolt if it starts to leak. Anyone have suggestions?

 

[Mudrunner]

Personally I would make an issue and drop the words "small claims court" nothing tightens up a business butt hole like those words. Because some one messed up so I would personally go that route before messing with it.
I worked in a dealership and this is kinda standard, but things change quickly. Also this is a good time to bring up that if you get your oil changed always take it to the same exact store so that if you have problems you can say it was always there never anywhere else.

 

[GrassCat]

Personally I would make an issue and drop the words "small claims court" nothing tightens up a business butt hole like those words. Because some one messed up so I would personally go that route before messing with it.

.

If I've read this post right, a shop offered to fix it for him for free, he declined. So now who's problem is it?

 

[Skidmarkart]

Oddly simple solution...

In my digging I saw several suggestions to try a longer bolt than the factory one, in case it didn't reach all the threads in the hole (i.e. the hole was deeper than the bolt). Hell, it was the top YouTube result. Seemed like a super simple solution and a longer drain pan bolt only cost me $3.99. I figured I would try the simplest thing first - and it worked :Wow1:. I am a bit amazed, but it locked in fairly securely. I used a high temp thread lock just in case, but I got a solid 15 pounds on the torque wrench. I'll be watching it for the next few days, and I'll be driving it minimally until the thread lock sets in 72hrs, but for the moment it looks like problem has been solved for not much money or worry.

If this ever happens to any of you - I suggest trying a longer bolt first. It's cheap and it seems to have worked for me.

I will report back in a few days to confirm the fix.