Tent Heater
- Thread starter Waytec
- Start date
skysix
Adventurer
Cold weather camping
Used a propane Mr. Buddy in Oregon down to about -5C for a month and only needed it on low for 10-25 min at bedtime and pre get-up. Canvas tent about 60sq feet floor area. Had a battery CO detector but it never went off
Have used a standard coleman 2-burner campstove burning naptha (for pre get-up and making breakfast / supper and bedding down) and a standard old-style (large model) coleman lantern also burning naptha on high at sleeping bag in/out and cooking times then refilled at bedtime and run on low all night long in a floorless canvas 5 and 10-man army tent (about 120 and 200 square feet floor area) in ambient temps down to -50C with great success for 14+ years - no CO detector but had a 'watch' in relays all night to keep lit and prevent someones sleeping movements from kicking it over etc
Now have an Autohome Overcamp RTT with a winter hood and haven't been in cold enough weather to need heat yet (only to freezing or so) but am thinking of the smaller Mr. Buddy once I figure out how to place it so it won't get kicked, be too close to the canvass or sleeping bags.
Used a propane Mr. Buddy in Oregon down to about -5C for a month and only needed it on low for 10-25 min at bedtime and pre get-up. Canvas tent about 60sq feet floor area. Had a battery CO detector but it never went off
Have used a standard coleman 2-burner campstove burning naptha (for pre get-up and making breakfast / supper and bedding down) and a standard old-style (large model) coleman lantern also burning naptha on high at sleeping bag in/out and cooking times then refilled at bedtime and run on low all night long in a floorless canvas 5 and 10-man army tent (about 120 and 200 square feet floor area) in ambient temps down to -50C with great success for 14+ years - no CO detector but had a 'watch' in relays all night to keep lit and prevent someones sleeping movements from kicking it over etc
Now have an Autohome Overcamp RTT with a winter hood and haven't been in cold enough weather to need heat yet (only to freezing or so) but am thinking of the smaller Mr. Buddy once I figure out how to place it so it won't get kicked, be too close to the canvass or sleeping bags.
SWbySWesty
Fauxverland Extraodinaire
What are the thoughts of heating a canvas tent that is 56sq ft and 68''tall with my lantern before bed and before getting up?
Standard coleman propane lantern...wouldn't leave it on at night. I also have my two-burner coleman stove. I know I know, it's dangerous, but if it's only for a little bit and I opened the window near the top for ventilation, do you think it's okay to do just before bed and before getting out of bed?
Standard coleman propane lantern...wouldn't leave it on at night. I also have my two-burner coleman stove. I know I know, it's dangerous, but if it's only for a little bit and I opened the window near the top for ventilation, do you think it's okay to do just before bed and before getting out of bed?
TexGX
Explorer
This might be worth a try. It is 12v and I would guess that it would heat up a tent pretty quick.
http://www.americanrvcompany.com/Pr...Heater-12V-200W-Trailer-RV-Camper_p_2107.html
TexGX
http://www.americanrvcompany.com/Pr...Heater-12V-200W-Trailer-RV-Camper_p_2107.html
TexGX
I just read over the posts and I thought I would add my $.02 worth.
I would buy the Big Buddy heater instead of the smaller Buddy heater. You don't have to turn it all the way up, but you can if needed. What is the old expression, "It is better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it." I think burning a lantern to take the chill off is an excellent way to go. I have been using a couple of different 2 mantle lanterns for years. One I know is 25+ years old. I recently picked up a single mantle compact lantern just to provide a bit more versitality.
I now use 3 types of tents. One is a small "3" person backpacking from REI, another is a 120 sqft "Alaskan" from Cabellas and finally, a Jumping Jack tent trailer. The 2 ground tents have more than enough ventilation and with a slight adjustment at the bottom of the door the JJ has plenty of fresh air. I have used an open flame alcohol burning stove burning all night while in a tent in Norway when attached to their Army. I have used candles in numerous small tents for years.
I guess you could have a fabric shelter that was air tight enough for problems but you would have to go some to make it that way. I have been in the artic when it rained and then froze causing a near air tight seal, but we just dealt with it. The same goes for a wood-metal shelter. There is just a lot of places for the air to move back and forth, stick built homes included.
As a rule, I use heat sources for warming the tent for preparation for going to bed or before getting up. I plan on enough bedding to not need alternative heating while sleeping or even laying around in bad weather reading, etc. I think the Big Buddy heaters are the answer to a camper's wishes. Does anyone have a formula for oxegen transfer / surface area / opening ?
Okay maybe not 2 cents, more like a dime.
Steve
I would buy the Big Buddy heater instead of the smaller Buddy heater. You don't have to turn it all the way up, but you can if needed. What is the old expression, "It is better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it." I think burning a lantern to take the chill off is an excellent way to go. I have been using a couple of different 2 mantle lanterns for years. One I know is 25+ years old. I recently picked up a single mantle compact lantern just to provide a bit more versitality.
I now use 3 types of tents. One is a small "3" person backpacking from REI, another is a 120 sqft "Alaskan" from Cabellas and finally, a Jumping Jack tent trailer. The 2 ground tents have more than enough ventilation and with a slight adjustment at the bottom of the door the JJ has plenty of fresh air. I have used an open flame alcohol burning stove burning all night while in a tent in Norway when attached to their Army. I have used candles in numerous small tents for years.
I guess you could have a fabric shelter that was air tight enough for problems but you would have to go some to make it that way. I have been in the artic when it rained and then froze causing a near air tight seal, but we just dealt with it. The same goes for a wood-metal shelter. There is just a lot of places for the air to move back and forth, stick built homes included.
As a rule, I use heat sources for warming the tent for preparation for going to bed or before getting up. I plan on enough bedding to not need alternative heating while sleeping or even laying around in bad weather reading, etc. I think the Big Buddy heaters are the answer to a camper's wishes. Does anyone have a formula for oxegen transfer / surface area / opening ?
Okay maybe not 2 cents, more like a dime.
Steve
ddawson
Adventurer
Last month for my birthday I received the Mr Heater Buddy. I used it over Thanksgiving weekend in my Flippac, and it worked really well. I ran it for a few minutes before bed and in the morning waking up. One night I ran it for an hour, and the temp was probably 75-80 degrees. Too warm for me. Outside temps weren't really that cold (40s) but more important my girlfriend was with me and she was warm!:victory: A warm woman is a happy woman.
Airborne Lee
Observer
What are the thoughts of heating a canvas tent that is 56sq ft and 68''tall with my lantern before bed and before getting up?
Standard coleman propane lantern...wouldn't leave it on at night. I also have my two-burner coleman stove. I know I know, it's dangerous, but if it's only for a little bit and I opened the window near the top for ventilation, do you think it's okay to do just before bed and before getting out of bed?
it will almost certainly melt or toast your roof to the point if will flake/crack and fail if you leave it for any length of time!
TAKE GREAT CARE IF YOU VALUE YOUR TENT AND SAFETY.
gasman
Adventurer
well .. here is my .02 too.. i have been watching this thread with great intrest for some time now.. personally i dont need no stinkin htr but if the girlfreind / kids are gonna be there some heat wood be nice.. you might guess by my name gasman i have been working in the HVAC industry for 30 yrs. i have been thinking about buildin my own furnace for the tent . but first i wood like to address the co issue everybody is worrying about.. last trip out it was cool enough that i could experiment a little bit.. i have the big serengetti trailer tent, its bloody huge and has a large screen ventilation hole in the roof wich cannot be closed
night#1
first night i used an old colman radiant heater 3,000 btu,s closed up the tent and ran it for 2 hrs before bed.. it didnt feel much warmer ( forgot my thermometer ) a few degrees at best the c.o. reading was 5 ppm.. very acceptable..
night #2
this night i used just the propane lantern.. set on high 2 hrs before bed
this was the way my parents used to do it..
any way after 2 hours the tent seemed warmer than the night before.. but the co reading was higher as well , it was at 17 ppm again this is acceptable but i dont like it..
here in ontario the legal exposure rate for carbon monoxide is 35 ppm over an 8 hour period..
i was reading that some of you were bringing your co detectors and checking as well .. what type of detector were you using.. is it a household type bought from the local hardware store..
if so please do not trust them.. most home alarms, the battery type ,in my experiance are not that reliable.. some times meeting the fire dept on the job can be fun but, several times i have had to meet the coroner and check equipment while the bodies were still in the house.. not a nice job..
most home alarms have a graduated alarm .. depending on the manufacturer. at 50 ppm they will beep. at 100 ppm after 15 minutes they will scream but you would prolly be getting headaches or maybe a little dizzy before that. anyway my buddy has a big buddy heater and is gonna let me borrow it .. i really want to know for myself that this low o2 sensor really works .. i have a hard time believing that it is all that... ok we all know that carbon monoxide is a product of incomplete combustion.. and as the fresh air in the tent is burt up and the air starts reburning itself eventually its gonna make co where does the mr buddy cut out ???? anybody know ?
night#1
first night i used an old colman radiant heater 3,000 btu,s closed up the tent and ran it for 2 hrs before bed.. it didnt feel much warmer ( forgot my thermometer ) a few degrees at best the c.o. reading was 5 ppm.. very acceptable..
night #2
this night i used just the propane lantern.. set on high 2 hrs before bed
this was the way my parents used to do it..
any way after 2 hours the tent seemed warmer than the night before.. but the co reading was higher as well , it was at 17 ppm again this is acceptable but i dont like it..
here in ontario the legal exposure rate for carbon monoxide is 35 ppm over an 8 hour period..
i was reading that some of you were bringing your co detectors and checking as well .. what type of detector were you using.. is it a household type bought from the local hardware store..
if so please do not trust them.. most home alarms, the battery type ,in my experiance are not that reliable.. some times meeting the fire dept on the job can be fun but, several times i have had to meet the coroner and check equipment while the bodies were still in the house.. not a nice job..
most home alarms have a graduated alarm .. depending on the manufacturer. at 50 ppm they will beep. at 100 ppm after 15 minutes they will scream but you would prolly be getting headaches or maybe a little dizzy before that. anyway my buddy has a big buddy heater and is gonna let me borrow it .. i really want to know for myself that this low o2 sensor really works .. i have a hard time believing that it is all that... ok we all know that carbon monoxide is a product of incomplete combustion.. and as the fresh air in the tent is burt up and the air starts reburning itself eventually its gonna make co where does the mr buddy cut out ???? anybody know ?
gasman
Adventurer
Does anyone have a formula for oxegen transfer / surface area / opening ?
hey steve .. i think the answer to you question .. is
1 sq '' of combustion and ventilation air openings for every 1,000 btu's of input .. if i read you question properly.. this is what is reqiured in the furnace room of your home for proper combustion.( based on your appliances being natural draft ). so if you furnace and water heater add up to 100,000 btu's you need 2 vents into the room 10'' x 10''
in a large tent we are dealing with 10,000 btu's ? so the openings required are much smaller .. wich brings up another really good question do you sleep in your furnace room at home ? nope its not allowed.. its against the gas code.. putting a furnace into your tent hmnn... ! well then what to do ? everybody knows the dangers of puttin a lantern in a tent everybody knows how flamable they are yet we still do it.. .. do as i say and not as i do ..
oh yeah... here is a good one .. why ? does the code say that a gas water heater must be vented to the outdoors while the gas stove in your kitchen does not.. gas water htr 40,000 btu's your gas stove 130,000 btu's
hey steve .. i think the answer to you question .. is
1 sq '' of combustion and ventilation air openings for every 1,000 btu's of input .. if i read you question properly.. this is what is reqiured in the furnace room of your home for proper combustion.( based on your appliances being natural draft ). so if you furnace and water heater add up to 100,000 btu's you need 2 vents into the room 10'' x 10''
in a large tent we are dealing with 10,000 btu's ? so the openings required are much smaller .. wich brings up another really good question do you sleep in your furnace room at home ? nope its not allowed.. its against the gas code.. putting a furnace into your tent hmnn... ! well then what to do ? everybody knows the dangers of puttin a lantern in a tent everybody knows how flamable they are yet we still do it.. .. do as i say and not as i do ..
oh yeah... here is a good one .. why ? does the code say that a gas water heater must be vented to the outdoors while the gas stove in your kitchen does not.. gas water htr 40,000 btu's your gas stove 130,000 btu's
First post
Firstly let me say, this is good sight you have here.
I've been toying with tent heaters for a while now. I've used the Mr. Heater, and while it does work. I find it doesn't take the dampness out. This is my latest experiment, the wood stove in a tent, modified with a homemade stove jack. Let me tell you there is no heat like a wood stove. The stove got the tent extremely warm. It did not melt any seams or burn any holes much to my surprise. Hopefully the pictures are clear enough,
1st pic the stove
2nd pic inside temp
3rd pic outside temp
Firstly let me say, this is good sight you have here.
I've been toying with tent heaters for a while now. I've used the Mr. Heater, and while it does work. I find it doesn't take the dampness out. This is my latest experiment, the wood stove in a tent, modified with a homemade stove jack. Let me tell you there is no heat like a wood stove. The stove got the tent extremely warm. It did not melt any seams or burn any holes much to my surprise. Hopefully the pictures are clear enough,
1st pic the stove
2nd pic inside temp
3rd pic outside temp
Attachments
Northern Explorer
Explorer
Can you show a picture of the chimney going through the roof.
Wood stoves are awesome. I have used them in tents, big and small and in cabins, also big and small. I have one of the super duper EPA blessed no poluting blah-blah-blah stoves in my home. However, I didn't remove my propane furnace.
It is funny you mention the home depot grade detectors. I have not been the least bit impressed. Maybe it is the "Made in China" tag that is my first clue.
Last season there was a family that died in a rented condo in Aspen (Vail?). Anyhow a multi-million dollar structure designed for the location. Now all building for housing in Colorado must have detectors when newly built, sold, or rented. I worry about this issue in my home and 5th wheel even more than I do in a fabric structure.
Gasman, any recommendations on a proper detector?
Thanks to all for this excellent thread.
Steve
It is funny you mention the home depot grade detectors. I have not been the least bit impressed. Maybe it is the "Made in China" tag that is my first clue.
Last season there was a family that died in a rented condo in Aspen (Vail?). Anyhow a multi-million dollar structure designed for the location. Now all building for housing in Colorado must have detectors when newly built, sold, or rented. I worry about this issue in my home and 5th wheel even more than I do in a fabric structure.
Gasman, any recommendations on a proper detector?
Thanks to all for this excellent thread.
Steve
overlander
Expedition Leader
I am also very interested in recommendations for good portable battery operated CO detectors that we can use camping. I'm getting a new RTT soon and would like to mount one in there when it's open. I was looking at a Kiddie model that include a digital readout that looked to fit the bill, but is there another informed recommendation? I'm ruling out any that don't show ppm readouts as I want to see a rise in ppm early before the warning alarm goes off.
winkosmosis
Explorer
I'd like to see a rugged CO detector. I don't know if those home ones can handle the rigors of being carried in a vehicle long term... the heat, constant movement, etc.
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