The Dakar Car

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
My current idea for a mini-modular camper for the rear of a 4-door JK sized vehicle.

1- water tank or storage shelf that made the front part of the floor flat and level with the rear section of the floor. Just a simple bolt in shelf could be nice. You could store a bunch of heavy stuff like tools and spare parts in that area. Access could be with the front seats flipped forward. I think this would also be a good location for a water tank for long distance trips. If the water tank was molded to fit and just bolted in.....that would kick butt. Maybe have a shelf AND a tank. The shelf basically being able to support a heavy load while making the rear area of the floor flat for cargo hauling.

2-A multi-segment sleeping platform that bolted in the rear just above the wheel tubs. I think to get full sleeping length the platform would need to have a fold out or slide forward leaf that was used with the seats folded forward. ( having the flip forward seat mounts for a 2-door would be nice ). It would be nice if the mattress was somehow integrated into the 'panels' that formed the sleeping platform, yet came off for cleaning. I think having the top be modular so that you could leave out sections for specific reasons would be valuable.

3-Modular storage boxes that fit on the flat rear floor below the sleeping platform. I'm thinking something simple like an open top aluminum box would be fine. If I wanted to get fancy I think having the 'floor' be one of those big 'bed slide' things so that you could pull the entire mess out the rear door would be nice. I would probably try and carry a spare tire ( just tire ) on the floor under the sleeping platform. Then have the ability to stuff soft side gear bags inside the tire and have some odd shaped gear boxes to take up the space around the tire also.

4-The kitchen door :) Make a replacement rear swing out door with an integrated window that had a micro kitchen built in. A small single burner stove from the boating world that ran off propane. A small sink that got water from the water tank. It would be on the inside of the rear door. In bad weather you would be able to cook inside. Maybe have the rear window open for some ventilation? When its nice out you open the door and cook from the rear of the vehicle. Propane tank mount on the sloped portion of the rear rollcage, maybe one on each side. I think the sink/stove would have to flip up and down to have maximum space on the inside when sleeping. It would be nice if the sink/stove could be attached to the door both in a high position when cooking inside.....and a low position when cooking outside with the door open. I think that could get difficult with the propane and water hoses...

5-A storage 'box' that would go against the drivers side of the top under the roll bar. It would only be about 8" deep give or take. I am thinking something REALLY light.....maybe an aluminum wire frame with fabric? This would be used to store all you long term personal stuff like clothes. Mesh doors on the front of the storage cubbies....with a little tag slot so you can label them.

I would try and keep everything as light as possible in construction.....
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
I know you consider the brutified LJ as too big, but at around 125" is I believe roughly the same wheelbase (or shorter) as a Ford Ranger or a Chevy S-10. I don't think those are considered large vehicles, are they? In any case, I believe that while the looks of this long Jeep might be unsightly, it's functionality would give you what you want, at least size wise. Then again, the beauty about the versatility of the Jeep is that we can agree to disagree as to what the best way to achieve this goal would be :)

I'm not saying its a bad idea, its just that its a TON of work. Much Much more than trying to make a long wheelbase 2-door JK type thing.

If I was going to do a full frame up project I would probably lean toward having Aqualu make me a CJ8 tub with the rear axle moved back to the CJ7 position. I think this would be about a 115-120" wheelbase. Then just use a factory off the shelf scrambler top. A long wheelbase land cruiser is another option but I think the scrambler has a bit better support in the usa.

I'm just trying to stay with a somewhat easily modified 'base' vehicle. No frame cutting, No super heavy body modifications if I can help it. Having a set of rear panels bolt into the door holes is easy. Having a top made is difficult, but in the end its just bolt on. I can keep the base vehicle intact and drive-able.
 

drgnhrt1979

Adventurer
My current idea for a mini-modular camper for the rear of a 4-door JK sized vehicle.

1- water tank or storage shelf that made the front part of the floor flat and level with the rear section of the floor. Just a simple bolt in shelf could be nice. You could store a bunch of heavy stuff like tools and spare parts in that area. Access could be with the front seats flipped forward. I think this would also be a good location for a water tank for long distance trips. If the water tank was molded to fit and just bolted in.....that would kick butt. Maybe have a shelf AND a tank. The shelf basically being able to support a heavy load while making the rear area of the floor flat for cargo hauling.

Sounds like this is what you are looking for: http://www.frontrunneroutfitters.co...OTWELL-WATER-TANK-40L-10-57-Gallons-p170.html

If I were to do a long distance trip this would be on the purchase list.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
yup, pretty much, except custom made to fit in the JK so no space is wasted.

I think having it be able to fit under a separate 'flat-floor' shelf would be the way to go. If you need the water tank add it, if you don't leave it out, still have a flat floor, and store other things that heavy and/or long in that space.

I'm still thinking about a fridge in the back? Currently I am thinking tucked over against the pass side rear 'door' area sitting low on the floor so that the top isn't higher than the sleeping platform. Orientate it so you can get at it from the drivers seat? Maybe through the passenger side window? Or passenger door with the seat folded forward. I don't know how the dimensions work out, but it would be nice if the fridge was only about as wide as the wheel tub so that I could keep the big long flat floor area intact for other uses?
 

drgnhrt1979

Adventurer
For your specific application I can not think of any fridges that come to mind that would work. If I happen across anything, i will post the link for your review as I decide my exact needs and direction.
 

haven

Expedition Leader
Sad to think the perfect vehicle is readily available everywhere except North America

ToyotaLC78.jpg
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
I think they are old enough to import now....at least the older versions.
I don't want to go down that road however. I have a friend trying to import a 110 rover and is having a heck of a time.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
So back on the topic.....

I got to look over a JK 4-door last night. A few observations....

-Removing the rear doors and making a fill plate would be pretty dang easy. I think the fill plate would need to retain the factory style door seal to work correctly. Using a factory rear half door could make it REALLY easy if you still wanted the 'door' style access to the lower storage areas. I think a bolt in 'skin' in place of the door would give you the most interior space. I think the door is 4-5" thick overall? That is a lot of space that could be turned into storage volume!

-The rear section of the top would be pretty easy as far as the attachment and sealing. The factory system could be easily continued over the top of the door insert.

-The sealing at the back of the B-pillar would be a little complex. I think the best way to do it would be to have a lip on the front of the top that was the same as the front of the rear door edge. Then just add in a section of factory weatherstrip in that area to seal the new top to the B-pillar.

-Keeping the freedom top system would bring down the cost and complexity of the long wheelbase top, but I think there is value in eliminating those parts to allow a simple and clean looking top. I think all the factory forward top attachment points could be used.

-Having the new top use the factory rear glass would probably be the easiest. I do want to look at the possibility of making the 'kitchen' door in the rear that was a one-piece unit with an integrated window. The factory wiper could be used in either case. The JK glass and rear door 'tailgate' are the same side so I think this could work.


I am still thinking for a fully functional one off prototype that aluminum would be the way to go. There would be a lot of welding and forming, but I still think that is probably the best route to make something you could mold....that was fully functional to test. With an aluminum 'skin' style top I think some reinforcements would need to be added on the inside of the top to help with noise and rigidity. These reinforcements would not really affect the molding process if it went that way.....

Or......just get a REALLY big 3D printer.......
 

postalWagon

Adventurer
Would you be willing to replace the factory roll cage? If you fab the new top out of aluminum you could make a thin roll cage as part of the top. It would open up lots of space.
 

Dan Grec

Expedition Leader
Would you be willing to replace the factory roll cage? If you fab the new top out of aluminum you could make a thin roll cage as part of the top. It would open up lots of space.

I've thought a lot about modifying the stock roll cage to "push it out" into the very corners of the hard top, especially at the back. i.e. remove the "down kink" so it continues straight until it hits the back of the hard top, then bend 90 deg down.
I think this will open up a lot of space in there for my ideas.

-Dan
 

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