The next build my brother and I

sroth

Fabricator
The Lincoln is a 140, (largest 110V I could find). The trailer will be skinned with 0.0236 paint ready sheet metal. As far as the tubing: frame is 2" x 2"x 16GA with a 1" x 2" x 16GA topper. ribs/skeleton- 1" x 1" x 16GA. floor plate (diamond plate)- 14GA. 3/4" flatten expanded metal

Hope this helps
 

lacofdfireman

Adventurer
I built my trailer sides etc from wood. If I had the skills to weld I would have done the skeleton out of 1" steel. Maybe I can learn to weld better and make my next one with steel. What will you be using for your exterior skin? And how is it attached. Welded, glued? No clue how you guys do the sides with metal or aluminum. Make sure you take lots of pics and post them up so we can see the process. Thanks.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

sroth

Fabricator
Sorry for the long reply. I plan on using 24GA paint ready sheet metal. I can source it locally here in GA.

Thanks for following
 

Crush Jeep

Adventurer
Test fit of the awning, it will be the perfect size for the trailer.

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The doors, window, fan and awning were all removed to get ready for painting. But first it went out for a test drive today, it towed great no issues.

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From the left and right sides it is right behind the jeep, not sticking out on the sides.

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It sits at the same height as the jeep.

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Enough room to open the tire and tail gate without hitting anything.

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Next week it gets painted. Then the wiring followed by flooring and then the inside work starts.
 

Crush Jeep

Adventurer
Did a test fit of the floor before painting the frame.

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The frame is stripped down and painted.

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Installing the floor, the bottom layer was painted on both sides with herculiner (weather resistant paint).

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Then a layer of insulation.

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The insulation is sandwiched between plywood. Both layers of the plywood are 1/2 inch and the insulation is 3/4 inch.

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You can also see in the pictures above that the frame is wired for the lights, solar panels and the fan.

The next step is to put down the flooring. We were going to go with a bamboo flooring but with the temperature changes while camping in the cold and heat, the flooring would expand and contract and cause it to split. So we are going with a laminate flooring. After the flooring the inside walls are going to be installed.
 
Last edited:

Sharpie

Observer
This thing is awesome. I wait for your updates weekly. If I missed this I'm sorry, but how did you attach the three layers of subfloor and insulation? To each other and to the frame. Thanks. Keep up the good work.
 

sroth

Fabricator
This thing is awesome. I wait for your updates weekly. If I missed this I'm sorry, but how did you attach the three layers of subfloor and insulation? To each other and to the frame. Thanks. Keep up the good work.

Thank you. The first sub-floor is attached with self tapping bolts to the frame on a 1" lip around the edges and 4 each 2" cross beams. The first layer is completely encapsulated in Herculiner. The insulation is sandwiched between the first and second layer again with self tapping bolts. The flooring is attached with flooring adhesive. Hopefully this combo with provide a long lasting, durable, water resistant floor system.
 

Crush Jeep

Adventurer
Well it's time for some updates, sorry it took so long but I've been very busy with work and have not had much time to update the page.
First off the floor was installed.

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Also started on the inside walls. Looking from the outside, the wires have been run for the electric.

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A few shots from the inside. The seam at the bottom will be hidden when the mattress is installed.

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The front window had to be built up because of the thickness of the window.

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Well that's all for now, hope you enjoyed it.
 

richxd87

Observer
Thanks for documenting the build, lots of good info and ideas here!

A couple questions for you if you don't mind:
Why the additional 1x2 on top of the frame?
For the tubing bender, did you only need one radius for the bends you made?
What is used to seal the subfloor and walls to the main frame?
Is the dividing wall just there for temporary support or will it remain as a dividing wall?
Are self tapping screws used for the interior panels as well or adhesive?

Thanks and sorry for all the questions!
Richard
 

sroth

Fabricator
Thanks for documenting the build, lots of good info and ideas here!

A couple questions for you if you don't mind:
Why the additional 1x2 on top of the frame?
For the tubing bender, did you only need one radius for the bends you made?
What is used to seal the subfloor and walls to the main frame?
Is the dividing wall just there for temporary support or will it remain as a dividing wall?
Are self tapping screws used for the interior panels as well or adhesive?

Thanks and sorry for all the questions!
Richard

Thank you for your interest in the build. The 1x2 is welded to the main frame, it has two purposes: The first is to give the floor a place to be sandwiched in and the second purpose is to give the walls a starting point. As far as the tubing bender, I only used one radius die (1 1/4 in ). For me the key was to write every bend down as I bent the first set then duplicated the bends/measurements. You have to get creative when on a budget. The dividing wall will stay: Front 2/3 is the cabin and the last 1/3 is the galley only accessible from outside. And as for your final question, all the interior structure is attached to the skeleton via self tapping/drilling screws. This is the reason the frame took a bit of time to figure out, had to know the end picture (where everything attached to) before I could call the frame done. Well I hope I answered all your questions. Thanks again for reading.
 

Sikocycles

Adventurer
You have a square and round die for the bender you listed earlier in the thread?
What size round tubing did you use for the fenders and steps?
 

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