The Ute II: E350 RB 7.3 ZF6

[thebigblue]

Naaa it's not loud at all... on start up when in boost/high it's noticeable from the outside but hardly annoying or disturbing. But once it achieves the desired inside temps it's extremely quiet.
I have a video on YouTube, I'll get the link. It's a bad video but should give you an idea on the sound levels.

Then it surely depends on your ears, - when camping wild in a quiet spot it's very loud without the silencer IMO...

 

[djbonsu]

Nice work!

 

[Pinnacle Campers]

Then it surely depends on your ears, - when camping wild in a quiet spot it's very loud without the silencer IMO...

I have to agree actually. It's not that it is loud it's just a really annoying decibel level.
I listened to it for 6 days straight every morning and evening and swear I was hearing it for days afterwards. Last Sunday I thought I had heard it and later realized it was the leaf vac of the neighbor 2 houses down.

I use my van to get to solitude and often get 10+ hours sleep vs. 5-6 at home. After this trip I'm not sure I can sleep through the heaters cycle. I would rather run it before bed, have appropriate bedding for conditions, and even if a little cold on wake up, run it again while making tea in the morning. Seemed to work well on this trip with lows in the low 30's, and lower wind chills. That said I did order a thermostat kit...

Keeping it right on subject, nice job on the interiors work. What are you using to finish the edges of the substrate (plywood) with? Might be able to help with that.....

Also, I think we are all still standing by for pics of the top popped, platform slid out over a cliff under the stars.

 

[hobovan]

Man this thing is sweet. Lots of stuff I'd like to do to ours. Very cool!

 

[naterry]

Last Sunday I thought I had heard it and later realized it was the leaf vac of the neighbor 2 houses down.

Haha! That is hilarious. Sig worthy!

I used a handheld router with the edge bit. It produced a nice line on the formica, but didn't really clean the leftover cement off the substrate. Thoughts?

 

[mk216v]

Wow Nate, SO much WIN here!!! Huge kudos, love it!!

 

[Bbasso]

I guess all sound is subject to the person who is listening...
But personally I'd rather have the Espar running then the mr buddy heater all night.

 

[ert01]

Anyone know what the db level of an espar/webasto is compared to a Propex? A friend recently bought and installed a Propex in his van and it was a lot quieter than I thought it would be...

 

[DzlToy]

I have not heard a Propex, at least not that I am aware of, but I can tell you that I have tent camped near the Earthroamer/Earthcruiser type of trucks running them and it is definitely noticeable. It was not annoying necessarily, not enough to keep you from sleeping, at least. If you were in a truck running a Webasto and I was next to you in a truck running a Webasto, I don't think you would notice mine. It has a bit of a "Jet Boil" type of a sound, if that helps any.

If you are "gathering" around your truck, say under a awning, near the truck, you are going to hear it. Will it be bothersome or annoying to your guests? It's hard to say.

Just my $0.02 from attending six Overland Expo shows (4x in AZ and 2x in NC)

 

[naterry]

I guess all sound is subject to the person who is listening...
But personally I'd rather have the Espar running then the mr buddy heater all night.

I finally got the Espar running. The noise level is better than I expected. The best dB reference I can think of is a "Mr. Heater" (not buddy) when it is firing up. It's possible to miss that it is running in normal/idle mode. Note that this is with an open atmosphere mounting, with the storage/utilities compartment closed it is hardly noticeable.

In other news, the electrical control "corner" is done. Solar, Espar, Compressor, Inverter, and extra USB's:

 

[jungblud]

Naterry,

Can you post something about your construction methods for the interior of your van.

I'm relatively familiar with 8020 and the various connectors they offer, however, the panels you have used and connection methods I guess I've just never seen in the 8020 online catalog.

Can you detail the methods you've used and whether these were just more of the bazillion parts 8020 sells or some other parts you brought together? Also, understanding where you used different techniques, slider panel vs. fixed etc. would be interesting.

Forgive me if you have detailed this elsewhere but I'm a regular on the thread and haven't seen said post. And a completely acceptable response is 'just look in the 8020 printed catalog'!

Thanks!
Tim

 

[naterry]

Naterry,

Can you post something about your construction methods for the interior of your van.

I'm relatively familiar with 8020 and the various connectors they offer, however, the panels you have used and connection methods I guess I've just never seen in the 8020 online catalog.

Can you detail the methods you've used and whether these were just more of the bazillion parts 8020 sells or some other parts you brought together? Also, understanding where you used different techniques, slider panel vs. fixed etc. would be interesting.

Forgive me if you have detailed this elsewhere but I'm a regular on the thread and haven't seen said post. And a completely acceptable response is 'just look in the 8020 printed catalog'!

Thanks!
Tim

Hey Jungblud, no problem. Have you heard of jongbloed wheels? (http://jongbloedracing.com/wordpress/) Good stuff.

I've left a ton of detail out of my build because 1) I'm lazy, and 2) it's a black hole of documentation if done completely...

The panels/mounting/fastening methods vary based on needs. Here's the basics:

The roof panels are CF sandwiched aluminum honeycomb because they are mounted the greatest distance from the CG and thus affect inertia the most. They require specific mounting procedures like isolating the panel from conductive fasteners and distributing loads away from edges. I bonded PTFE flanged sleeves for the thru holes and sandwiched nylon strips for face-to-face connections. I don't have a pic of the sleeves but you can see some of it here:

The load bearing panels in the interior are 3/8" plywood with white Formica. Most of these use a simple hinge. The panels rest in the closed position on the walls of the compartment below. Of course there are a 1000 ways to do this but I chose to have them close on the "boxes" because it seemed the least likely method to cause scratches and snagging when filling/unfilling the contents. Kinda hard to see but note the edge of the plywood on the left below:

The seat backrest hinges up to complete the lower bed, simple deadbolt latches hold it in place:

The counter-top was a bit more involved. I machined off one "ear" of the profile to allow the top to sit flush with the top plane of the profile:

The non-load bearing panels are all 1/4" plywood with Formica on the faces. Again, 1000 ways to do it, I chose to use white face rivets with a backing washer at each corner to keep it clean. 80/20 (and others) have a "panel mount bracket" that is designed for flush mounting 1/4" panels:

The strongest fastening method 80/20 sells is the end connection where you tap one member and drill through holes in the mating members. I used these for all of the top members, and the main interior members. It is also the cleanest connection. You can also see the bolt plates required for mating parallel members together here:

And the latest update, a cookware/pantry drawer!

 

[jungblud]

I have heard of Jongbloed Wheels...unfortunately no relation!

Thanks for the extra details. I get the seat hinge now. Obvious looking at the pics now.

I'm beginning to design the layout for my EB and this info will assist once I get beyond the 'box' phase.

Nice build!

Tim

 

[Corneilius]

Your 8020 stuff makes my 8020 stuff look like a joke hahaha. Great job

 

[naterry]

Your 8020 stuff makes my 8020 stuff look like a joke hahaha. Great job

Thanks. It's all good though! I don't know why more people don't use it, Lego's rule.