The Ute II: E350 RB 7.3 ZF6

Corneilius

Adventurer
The perception that it is expensive. For the versatility, it is pretty fairly priced in my opinion.

Very versatile, but it is several $/ft more expensive than steel or aluminum with comparable properties. Plus one of the main reason I went with 1" square tube for my bed frame was the ability to bend it, I really wanted a rounded corner that I wouldn't bonk my knee on. That said the ability to reuse and reconfigure the 8020 does make it worth it. Halfway through my sink cabinet I redesigned EVERYTHING and was able to reuse every piece I had already cut. ^ This (edit: MY) evaluation also totally ignores 8020 bracket cost, but id venture they get expensive fast for someone without CNC access.
 

FDM2012

Adventurer
Hey Nate,

Love your builds. You are much more meticulous than I am! lol

I do have a quick question on UTE1. Did you ever regret going SRW, based on handling or any other reason? I am considering doing the same, but being on the Right Coast, I don't need anything that crawls.
So I will be staying with The Quigley setup, going with 295/75R16 BFG KO2's. They have the best load rating and are very road worthy, however, I REALLY like the way 35's look on your current rig. But, I also want to build out a trail trailer later on, and would prefer not to tear into my rear end, so staying a little shy on tire will still help the tranny out a bit. I will also be doing some Agile stuff. (already been talking with John...)

Did your departure angle come into play on the trails? I bet it did, and hope to go that route someday, as well.

While still doing my own thing, I am pulling ideas from you, HobieTony, Ambovan, and others....

For ChitsandGiggles, here is my build thread so far: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/159270-New-Member-New-Rig?p=2102869#post2102869
 
Last edited:

naterry

13 Cheeseburgers
Hey Nate,

Love your builds. You are much more meticulous than I am! lol

I do have a quick question on UTE1. Did you ever regret going SRW, based on handling or any other reason? I am considering doing the same, but being on the Right Coast, I don't need anything that crawls.
So I will be staying with The Quigley setup, going with 295/75R16 BFG KO2's. They have the best load rating and are very road worthy, however, I REALLY like the way 35's look on your current rig. But, I also want to build out a trail trailer later on, and would prefer not to tear into my rear end, so staying a little shy on tire will still help the tranny out a bit. I will also be doing some Agile stuff. (already been talking with John...)

Did your departure angle come into play on the trails? I bet it did, and hope to go that route someday, as well.

While still doing my own thing, I am pulling ideas from you, HobieTony, Ambovan, and Ozzrockrat.

For ChitsandGiggles, here is my build thread so far: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/159270-New-Member-New-Rig?p=2102869#post2102869

Apologies for the late reply, I'm mostly off grid in Patagonia at the moment.

Regarding duallies: they're great for towing and everything up to gravel roads. Beyond that tennis ball rocks love to wedge themselves in between and then of course the tracking issues. They can work though, just depends on your preferences and patience.

Yes on the departure angle, that rear bumper and the low valence make for some scrubby exits.

DSC04400_zpswqsj3ckw.jpg
 

jessluvs2romp

New member
Cheers everybody, thanks for the kind words!



I've been driving small cars for over a year now and it's a huge change. So trying to be objective here... It feels like a monster truck, and bigger than the original Ute in some ways. Something about shifting the gears gives me a more connected feeling to what a huge heavy rig it is! That said, it gets up and goes great. I went with the TW 6 Position chip to convert the ECU over to manual and a couple of the tunes are ridiculous. Like, if I don't feather the clutch a little it will just pop the rear tires half a rotation, which is funny, but not exactly smooth. Shifter position is good, pedal feel is good. I'll report back after I log some miles and get used to it.

The goal of the ZF6 swap was to have a simpler van that I know how to fix (still don't get all the torque converter and valve body stuff). I also feel more comfortable towing and lugging up hills in manuals because you know without a doubt if you are cooking the clutch or not. It helps me sleep at night when I'm out in the boonies if you know what I mean.



Cheers! It's not that difficult. The UJOR kit requires welding and some alignment so I'd already place it above the land of bolt-on projects, etc.

  • The Transmission & T-Case swap itself is a no-brainer: it bolts right up.
  • The OEM auto tranny cross member works with minor modifications: It sits another 1 1/2" lower than Chris's splints place it. This is somewhat dictated by what you choose to do with the hole for the shifter because it could sit higher if you wanted to fab a little box below the boot.
  • Mounting the Clutch Pedal requires minor fabrication skills and is the only real variable: Note that I went the simplest route I could think of which was to mount an under-hung reverse swinging pedal. There are certainly more elegant ways to mount a pedal but I didn't want to make a sculpture out of it or mess with the firewall and wheel well. The area behind the pedals in our vans if cramped and full of harness bulkhead mounts, yuck.

Here is the ugly bracket I made. I used two existing tapped holes in the cast aluminum dash/steering column assembly, hence the odd angles of the top two mounting holes. It's a 3/4" bore and has plenty of displacement to actuate the OEM AP Slave:

ClutchBracket_zps7a24a963.jpg




Thank you again Chris, this would have taken forever without your help!



It's spacious for me but I don't play in the NBA (size 9 for the record). My freak of nature viking buddy drove it yesterday too and I forgot to ask him what he thought about the pedals, but he didn't say anything. There's plenty of space really, the wheel well bulge isn't that big. That was one concern I was glad to see elleviated.

Hey all, sorry to revive an older thread but I'm desperate. I'm doing a similar install into an 98 e350 (ambulance), only difference is that I'm doing the 2wd version. I'm to the point where I have the tranny installed. I have the clutch mounted in a custom bracket, but I cannot get the clutch to line to bleed right. I followed the instructions for the zf6 bleed-valve-absent arrangement, by cycling the slave rod back and forth, but I constantly hear bubbles force through and the clutch does not disengage.

Has anyone using this clutch slave/master cylinder combo had a similar experience?
 
Hey all, sorry to revive an older thread but I'm desperate. I'm doing a similar install into an 98 e350 (ambulance), only difference is that I'm doing the 2wd version. I'm to the point where I have the tranny installed. I have the clutch mounted in a custom bracket, but I cannot get the clutch to line to bleed right. I followed the instructions for the zf6 bleed-valve-absent arrangement, by cycling the slave rod back and forth, but I constantly hear bubbles force through and the clutch does not disengage.

Has anyone using this clutch slave/master cylinder combo had a similar experience?

i dunno about your particular clutch bleed procedure/issues, but on some trouble cars i have bled the clutch from the bottom by forcing fluid thru the slave cylinder bleed valve and up to the reservoir, since air bubbles go to the top it really speeds things up.

at work i use a "oil can" with the little lever pump, but i have one designated for brake fluid (and one for gear oil, atf, oil etc) but at home I've used large veterinary syringes
 

shenrie

^^^ hates cars
just read every page. amazing build man. everything about it is just ************. would love to check it out sometime if you didn't mind. also wanna see/hear that m!
 

naterry

13 Cheeseburgers
just read every page. amazing build man. everything about it is just ************. would love to check it out sometime if you didn't mind. also wanna see/hear that m!

Cheers! I'll be around mid-Oct. I also talked with Brian regarding a Beer meet or something.

jessluvs2romp- I replied to your PM, hope it helps!
 

shenrie

^^^ hates cars
Right on, thanks and look forward to it! Id even be game if it was a camping meet. Brian knows how to get in contact with me so if you don't post up have him lmk. Don't see him enough anyway since we both ************** out and quit racing.

Is there a pic in this thread of your rig at Boulder mines?
 
Cheers! I'll be around mid-Oct. I also talked with Brian regarding a Beer meet or something.

jessluvs2romp- I replied to your PM, hope it helps!

Incredible build! Add me to list of folks that would love to be part of a meet and greet in Boise. Shay, shoot me a text if you guys set something up. I'd love to tag along.
 

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