ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
ding ding!!
FWIW if you're not hard on parts I do not see a D60 being a good move. I'd suggest a Ford 9" in spite of it's low pinion design before going the D60 route.
Time for axle input from you!
- Thread starter Explorer 1
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FWIW if you're not hard on parts I do not see a D60 being a good move. I'd suggest a Ford 9" in spite of it's low pinion design before going the D60 route.
I was reading through the posts and noticed 1 person said 8.25 only goes up to 4.56's and 1 person said it goes to 4.88's. I'm just going to confirm it goes to 4.88s.
If you're going to get a 8.25, make sure it's the 29spline and not the 27, or you might as well keep the d35, especially considering you're going to lock it. I'd think (though I only have 33s) that the Chrysler 8.25 will suffice up to 35's.
just my .02
If you're going to get a 8.25, make sure it's the 29spline and not the 27, or you might as well keep the d35, especially considering you're going to lock it. I'd think (though I only have 33s) that the Chrysler 8.25 will suffice up to 35's.
just my .02
DrMoab
Explorer
Why a stock 44? I'm guessing you want to keep a locker.
I put an XJ 44 in mine with 33 spline alloy usa shafts and an ARB locker. I figure the added strength would be more than enough for 33 inch tires but if I ever decided to go with 35s I would be fine there too.
For added insurance you could always add a TNT truss.
I put an XJ 44 in mine with 33 spline alloy usa shafts and an ARB locker. I figure the added strength would be more than enough for 33 inch tires but if I ever decided to go with 35s I would be fine there too.
For added insurance you could always add a TNT truss.
Black Dog
Makin' Beer.
At least 35's, especially if you are going to put in beefy alloy shafts.
If it was me, I'd go with the dana 44. Even though its been said that the 8.25 has tougher axle tubes, you could probably make\buy a truss for the 44 that would make it far more sturdy. But still, guys run 35's with Dana 44s and lockers all the time and the only times they have problems it was human error that caused the failures, like pushing it too hard or they did a shoddy job assembling it or a combination of the two. I've always been told that the 44 was the best "stock" axle the ever was for an XJ.
Most of the guys I know run the d44's for added strength this is the first im hearing an 8.25 is stronger...
8.8 for sure, they are beefy just pick one up and see for yourself, disk brakes, 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern, and cheap easily under $250. I can pick up and carry a D35, I can kinda pick up and carry an XJ 44, I cannot even come close to doing that with an 8.8. I'd stay away from a 9", the low pinion sucks big time off road. And they are not as strong as everyone thinks they are, they earned their reputation on the street.
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Root Moose
Expedition Leader
Interesting. What kind of failures have you seen? Must be housing related? I can't see the R&P being an issue - ever.
Black Dog
Makin' Beer.
I had always thought that the 8.25 was the next step up from the D35, and the dana 44 was the next step up from the 8.25. Those were the axles that came from the factory on XJ\MJs and if you wanted anything any bigger then you would have to get the 8.8 or a dana 60. As long as you are going for something that is way stronger that you will ever need though, you might as well go with rockwells. :sombrero:
100% agree.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
Second the housing suspicion, because they sure are popular in desert racing. I wouldn't think that they'd be so if they weren't strong enough to survive, but they are almost always custom housings.
Yeah, customs housings are the key. Stock housings have issues with the pinion bearings supports, mostly the inner support. A lot of the broken 9" axles i've seen were caused by pinion issues. Custom housing beef up the inner pinion support a lot... But they are a strong axle, which comes from the pinion being so low on the ring gear.
Seems like the 8.8 is just a better choice, they are cheap and plentiful, 95+ come with disk brakes, 31 spline axles, almost perfect Jeep width... The only real downfall i've seen with them is they like to spin axle tubes, but that is a very easy fix.
I had the horrible D35 for a few years in my TJ, for a while it was even aussie locked on 33s and it held up fine. I had a friend on 36's that broke shafts on a regular basis. I did a bunch of research on what to replace my 35 with and the 8.8 just came out on top for me. A Jeep 8.25 or D44 was just to expensive and not worth the swap. I picked up a 4.10 geared 8.8 for $175, and spend another $300 getting TJ brackets put on...
Seems like the 8.8 is just a better choice, they are cheap and plentiful, 95+ come with disk brakes, 31 spline axles, almost perfect Jeep width... The only real downfall i've seen with them is they like to spin axle tubes, but that is a very easy fix.
I had the horrible D35 for a few years in my TJ, for a while it was even aussie locked on 33s and it held up fine. I had a friend on 36's that broke shafts on a regular basis. I did a bunch of research on what to replace my 35 with and the 8.8 just came out on top for me. A Jeep 8.25 or D44 was just to expensive and not worth the swap. I picked up a 4.10 geared 8.8 for $175, and spend another $300 getting TJ brackets put on...
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
I meant housings, not drop-outs. I've heard of the far pinion support part of the drop-out casting giving up, but have yet to see one. Pretty thin there, so not a surprise.
The only thing about the 8.8 that I do not like are the C-Clips. Those have two problems, break an axle that nothing holds the tire on, and bearing rollers rolling directly on an axle shaft just seems like a really, really bad idea. The shaft has to be hardened right where the stress is the highest. If you go for the 8.8 Kool-Aid, budget for C-Clip Eliminators.
The only thing about the 8.8 that I do not like are the C-Clips. Those have two problems, break an axle that nothing holds the tire on, and bearing rollers rolling directly on an axle shaft just seems like a really, really bad idea. The shaft has to be hardened right where the stress is the highest. If you go for the 8.8 Kool-Aid, budget for C-Clip Eliminators.
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TJ Willy
Adventurer
Driver style makes a big difference but I vote for the 8.8 or 9. Also if you upgrade shafts with alloy then something else will just give... like an outer axle u-joint. 
The only thing I ever broke running a high pinion D30 with ARB locker and 36's. (44 in back). I think being locked (selectable) can decrease the chances of a break allowing you to crawl the right line and finesse the Jeep over the rocks.
The only thing I ever broke running a high pinion D30 with ARB locker and 36's. (44 in back). I think being locked (selectable) can decrease the chances of a break allowing you to crawl the right line and finesse the Jeep over the rocks.
bigredcherokee
Observer
Currie makes a HP 9 3rd member see here
"I chose the Ford 9" for a few reasons: The 9" features larger non c-clip axles, much larger brakes (2.5"x11"), numerous locker options and a wide range of gear ratios to choose from. In addition to these features, the Ford 9" also has a removable third member which allows easy gear set-up and the option to swap in different third members if needed. The 9" also is stronger than a Dana 44 and gives you more ground clearance than the Dana 60. The Ford 9" however does have a lower pinion that will create a steeper drive shaft angle." Quoted from 4x4wire.com
Hope this helps.