Time for axle input from you!

[bigredcherokee]

Driver style makes a big difference but I vote for the 8.8 or 9. Also if you upgrade shafts with alloy then something else will just give... like an outer axle u-joint. The only thing I ever broke running a high pinion D30 with ARB locker and 36's. (44 in back). I think being locked (selectable) can decrease the chances of a break allowing you to crawl the right line and finesse the Jeep over the rocks.

I have done quite a bit of trail ridding over the last 5 years with TJ Willy. Running Superlift orv ,Katemcy in Tx just to name a couple. He knows how to maneuver well in just about any obstacle. Yep and in that time that was about the only thing that was broken.

Yes having selectable makes it easy to trun and adjust to conditions were as a automatic give that extra bit of P.I.T.A
:ylsmoke:

 

[ExpoMike]

I meant housings, not drop-outs. I've heard of the far pinion support part of the drop-out casting giving up, but have yet to see one. Pretty thin there, so not a surprise.

The only thing about the 8.8 that I do not like are the C-Clips. Those have two problems, break an axle that nothing holds the tire on, and bearing rollers rolling directly on an axle shaft just seems like a really, really bad idea. The shaft has to be hardened right where the stress is the highest. If you go for the 8.8 Kool-Aid, budget for C-Clip Eliminators.

Actually if you get a 8.8 with disc brakes, the way the rotors and mounting cage is setup, the brakes will keep the axle from walking out, unlike a drum brake setup. Sure not the same as C-Clip eliminators but the axle will stay in non the less.

I think the C-Clip eliminators is the way to go if for nothing else, it widens the track to the same as an XJ rear end without having to use bolt on spacers for the wheels. Kills two birds with one stone.

 

[bigredcherokee]

Actually if you get a 8.8 with disc brakes, the way the rotors and mounting cage is setup, the brakes will keep the axle from walking out, unlike a drum brake setup. Sure not the same as C-Clip eliminators but the axle will stay in non the less.

I think the C-Clip eliminators is the way to go if for nothing else, it widens the track to the same as an XJ rear end without having to use bolt on spacers for the wheels. Kills two birds with one stone.

What you are referring to is called a retaining plate. In most cases there is a bearing retaining ring pressed on after the bearing. This along with the retaining plate keep the axle in.

Me personally I would change the axle out and not wast my time with C-Clip Eliminators.

 

[ExpoMike]

What you are referring to is called a retaining plate. In most cases there is a bearing retaining ring pressed on after the bearing. This along with the retaining plate keep the axle in.

Me personally I would change the axle out and not wast my time with C-Clip Eliminators.

I agree most C-clip elim. kits don't space out the axles but the Super 8.8 kit adds this spacer/retainer.

You can go this way or add spacers for the wheels but if you are running stock offset wheels, you HAVE to move them out somehow or they will rub on the inner wheel wells. None stock offset wheels don't have this problem but if I was to change axles, I would not be changing my wheels as I love the factor Icon wheels.

YMMV

 

[ntsqd]

Actually if you get a 8.8 with disc brakes, the way the rotors and mounting cage is setup, the brakes will keep the axle from walking out, unlike a drum brake setup. Sure not the same as C-Clip eliminators but the axle will stay in non the less.

I think the C-Clip eliminators is the way to go if for nothing else, it widens the track to the same as an XJ rear end without having to use bolt on spacers for the wheels. Kills two birds with one stone.

Locally we all used to think that a RDB caliper would hold the axle in place too, but after a friend of mine broke a D44 rear axle (33's) and the resulting carnage included a broken caliper as well as a bent & twisted caliper bracket we no longer count on that. Fortunately he wasn't going very fast. Unfortunately that only amplifies how poor of a job of axle retention the caliper can do.

When I think of "C-Clip" eliminators the above picture is not what I see in my head. I'm seeing new, welded-on bearing housing ends plus the aforementioned pressed-on ring that retains the bearing on the axle. In this case the so-called "Torino" bearing housings have the same bolt pattern and WMS to housing flange offset as the stock layout.

 

[DrMoab]

Locally we all used to think that a RDB caliper would hold the axle in place too, but after a friend of mine broke a D44 rear axle (33's) and the resulting carnage included a broken caliper as well as a bent & twisted caliper bracket we no longer count on that. Fortunately he wasn't going very fast. Unfortunately that only amplifies how poor of a job of axle retention the caliper can do.

Im curious how breaking a 44 would cause that. They are held in by the retainer plates at the end of the axles, not C-clips. Did the retainer plates fail?

 

[Root Moose]

With enough side loading I can see a non-C-clip axle walking out (destroying the retainer plate, possibly the caliper mount, etc., etc.).

In relation to the 8.8 I believe the C-clip argument is a red herring unless you are doing extreme stuff.

Is Fred doing "extreme wheeling"? I dunno.

 

[DrMoab]

There is other reasons not to like C-clip axles. The bearing riding on the axle shaft is a big one for me and it will keep me from ever doing this style of axle.

 

[ntsqd]

There is other reasons not to like C-clip axles. The bearing riding on the axle shaft is a big one for me and it will keep me from ever doing this style of axle.

Ding ! Ding!
This is a major reason why my FJ60 now sports a non-US full float rear axle assembly. In order for the wheel bearing rollers to roll directly on the axle shaft, the shaft must have at least a surface hardening done there. Where the bearings roll on the axle is right at the worst stress on the axle, the change from shaft to flange.

The D44 shaft failed inboard of the wheel bearing on a Scout II.

 

[Explorer 1]

What kind of wheeling am I doing anyhow???

With enough side loading I can see a non-C-clip axle walking out (destroying the retainer plate, possibly the caliper mount, etc., etc.).

In relation to the 8.8 I believe the C-clip argument is a red herring unless you are doing extreme stuff.

Is Fred doing "extreme wheeling"? I dunno.

Most of my trips are exploring, but I don't like to be turned around or stopped by a challange. I will go out to Moab or some other local day trip with a few crawling friends, but I usually strip down the XJ of some of the extra weight I take on the longer trips.

In this picture I'm fully loaded at about 4,400 lbs. (on the heavier side) If you view the movie you can hear the seal on the rear ARB blow out. Mind you I wasn't really pushing throttle much when this happened. Talking with ARB techs they said it's not a uncommon issue with the Dana 35.

Thanks for all the helpful information,

Fred
Explorer 1

 

[Explorer 1]

And the winner is.........

Thanks for all the input.

When we tore apart the D-35 ARB there was a lot more damage than anyone thought would be. One of the bolts had sheered off and caused some parts to seized together. The tech's at ARB want to see it and have sold me a new unit below cost pending their own review of the damage.

If it appears a product failure they are going to refund some additional $$.

Cris at Rock-tech was surprised it held together as well as it did and didn't have a "major" failure. (meaning parts going places they were never intended to go)

With all the good advise it looks like the following will be the route I go:

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/cjrockjock.aspx

I'm not going with the aluminum case option!

Along with this rear end change I am most likely going to change the t-case for a modified NP-231.

Thanks again,
Fred
Explorer 1