Tire pressure for trailer tires

captwoody

Adventurer
I am converting my trailer to a 3500lb axle, lighter springs and 5x5 hubs so I can run JK rims and tires. My tires will be BF Goodrich all terrains 265/70/17's. my trailer weighs about 600-800 lbs. so I am looking for suggestions for what I should run my air pressure at for street and of road. I feel jeep recommended air pressure is way to high for the load and will beat contents of trailer up/Plus I have no idea at what to run trailer tires at offroad. I run between 10-20 lbs on my jeep when offroad
jeep trailer.jpg
 

captwoody

Adventurer
hopefully better pic
full
 

toymaster

Explorer
..... what I should run my air pressure at for street and of road.....

The same pressure. You want the least amount of rolling friction as possible in any situation for a trailer. The reason to lower tire pressure off road is to create a larger contact patch (surface area) between the tire and ground thus giving you more available traction. Doing this to a trailer would in effect increase the load you are pulling, in other words it would increase rolling resistance.

As far as what pressure, I would do a chalk test. Use chalk to mark the tire in one area across the tread, roll the trailer at usual loaded weight, and change the air pressure till there is even contact across the width of the tire. This will help you to get even wear and be the best compromise to all of the other variables.
 

captwoody

Adventurer
Ok will do chalk test for highway pressure and 12psi for off road. Trailer does great on road with tongue extension, have 3 lengths I can use 2 pintle one 2" ball. 2" ball would bind offroad on trails rated above a 2 on the 5 scale, no binding and better turning and climbing with pintle, better road manners with extension. harbor freight springs are terrible so that's reason for upgrade. trailer has been up Arroyo Salado and down Diablo drop off out fish creek . To top and bottom of coyote canyon in Anza Borrego and that's why I want softer springs and bigger tires that match jeep for 2 spares that can be used on either jeep or trailer
full

I have choice of 24",34" or 56" tongue lengths depending on terrain
heres linc to build aluminum was added to keep dust minimized
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/170049-budget-harbor-freight-build-2014-wrangler-sport
 
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VicMackey

Adventurer
I am a regular guy, not an engineer. Someone here posted about traction. What does traction have to do with anything when off road on a vehicle that is not self propelled? I would think that a skinnier pizza cutter tire would do better off road on a trailer than a wide tire.

I am curious to see more answers in this thread as I never thought to lower the trailer tire pressure for any reason other than to keep the trailer contents from launching all over the place (I have an enclosed M101A3).

Jkilgore11, you pose an interesting question here. Looking forward to seeing more posts.
 

Burb One

Adventurer
I would think, as stated before, higher pressure would be better off road, for the simple reason of reducing friction (contact patch). Only caveats, is you need to run a low enough pressure to reduce chance of puncture by rocks and chunking (probably dependent on weight in the trailer and terrain, with no power going to the trailer wheels) and a trade off to lower pressures smoothing the ride in the trailer(I don't think any of us are carrying fine china off road, so that may be moot.)
 

20DYNAMITE07

Just along for the ride
I am a regular guy, not an engineer. Someone here posted about traction. What does traction have to do with anything when off road on a vehicle that is not self propelled? .

I've heard it said that traction is an issue for trailers in off camber situations in slippery conditions... I'm guessing someone with more experience will come along and clarify this for us though.
 

jadatis

New member
If I understand right , your trailer weighs at most 1000 lbs loaded and all.

Googled your tires and they are loadindex 121 S wich means one tire can bare a piece, 3200 lbs AT most likely only 35 psi.
This AT-pressure is the only thing I dont know for shure, but going by the sises I think its yust standard load, and no XL/reinforced/Extraload, and no LT tire.
But look on sidewall for that , search for something like AT 35 psi or maximum cold pressure 44 to 50 psi , then its a Standard load with that AT-pressure of 35 psi, or in case of European system 36 psi.
Then you can drive up to 160km/99m/h with that weight on it without overheating the tires.
You dont need that , you can do with much less.

For on the road I am able to calculate it for you as "pigheaded Dutch Selfdeclared Tirepressure-specialist"
Filled it in my motorhome calculator in wich I use a reserve of even 18 % and use my determined formula that is even saver then the European formula.
Filled in 1000 lbs with that 18% reserve and lowered the loadindex by 8 to 113 to give it lesser deflection, because your tires have large profile blocks that cover a part of sidewall , so lesser sidewall is left to flex.
So did everything to give the highest pressure .
Then came to 1.2 bar/17 psi , yes that low and then all the reserves and pessimistic calculation.
so you dont need higher pressure for driving even 160km/99m/h on the road.
You sertainly wont drive that speed I think, but this pressure , to my conclusions will still give no discomfort ( for the things that means it wont shutter that apart or trailer goes dancing).
for off road tiremakers give lists and go for on track at that low weight from 80% of the pressure for 65km/35m?/h on the road. For in Sand/Mud even 50% of the pressure needed for 20km/12.5m/h on the road.

Still busy figuring out what system the tiremakers use for that , but estimate you can even do with even 0,6 bar/9 psi on track.
But check if I am right about the tires 35 AT pressure , give everything you find on sidewall that can help met with that.

EDIT: Searched better for your tires, and found LI 112 and Li 115 so think those are Standard load and XL, and you then must have C-load /LRC with AT pressure of 50 psi . Asumed American system because comparable Eur 6 plyrated is AT 55 psi, so can be wrong there still. Would mean 10% higher pressure calculated.
This would mean for on road up to 160km/99m/h with same carefull extra's and calculation 1.7 bar/24 psi. So probably for track about 16 psi and in sand/mud not higher then 9 psi.
 
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jkilgore11

Adventurer
The trailer looks as if it is a modified Harbor Freight trailer. I would limit the load to no more then 800 pounds.

The advantage of the lower tire pressure on the road (empty) is your springs will not flex. Your tires will be your suspension when empty. It would be as if your running a axle bolted to the frame, and no springs. The trailer will bounce around like a cork in the ocean with whitecaps. Unloaded trailer only 7 to 8 PSI on the road.

If you loaded your trailer with concrete the 3,500 # springs would flex. That would be more then the trailer could handle. Just a side note a trailer that heavily loaded will push your Jeep all over the place without trailer brakes. I do believe that 2,500# springs would be better for the trailer.

Part of the equation in tire pressure is the load rating of the tire. A tire with a rating of "C" and a rating of "E" will be different pressure carrying the same weight.

You want the trailer to have the same profile and footprint (look) as your Jeep. The measuring tape and chalk will get you the same look on the trailer as you have on your Jeep.

My 25psi has been a trial and error for the tires I am running. It gives the trailer a little suspension and sidewall compliance. With only leaf springs and no shocks, it is the only option. The contact patch is also acceptable while off road.

Too much air and you lose the adequate contact patch and traction. It's not fun when your trailer slides 90 degrees. Too little air and you can burp a tire or completely lose a bead without beadlocks.

The psi will definitely change according to the tire. My last trailer was on 35's with heavy duty sidewall. My happy medium with those was 18-20psi according to the load.
 

captwoody

Adventurer
The axle will be 3500 lbs springs are much lighter(1200LBS?) and tuned to the harbor freight conversions. And for me to get to the 800 lbs of my 600-800 weight I have to load 15 gallons water and 10 gallons extra fuel. The trailer is gusseted underneath for extra strength. Have all my parts for retrofit except the axle itself which is being built to my measurements 54" and should be delivered at the end of the month. I will start at 15 psi off road and do chalk test for on highway starting at 28 and going up or down as indicated. I am looking at 400 lbs load per tire instead of 1000lbs tire would carry being on a jeep. Thank you for all your input I now have a good idea how to proceed and will wait for the last of my parts
 
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