? - Voltage Regulation when Charging an LFP Battery

Alloy

Well-known member
How about FLA batteries?....I'm half joking because I've spent allot of time & more $$ on projects but I'm also thinking protecting the battery is going to cost as much as the battery....if charging below 34F is needed there's more $.
 

SBDuller

Member
How about FLA batteries?....I'm half joking because I've spent allot of time & more $$ on projects but I'm also thinking protecting the battery is going to cost as much as the battery....if charging below 34F is needed there's more $.
..a good half joking perspective! after several weeks of thinking a new plan over and over, and ultimately getting to the edge of a rabbit hole, It seems, for my small refrigerator needs, I should skip LFP entirely, stick with current AGM/ML-ACR/AGM until they expire, then go FLA. The solar input can remain and augment the auxiliary battery.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Pretty bizarre approach.

Bet that delivers heck of a profit margin.

Would be fine for those on long road trips, but personally I'd want maximum rate, quickest topup, most of all if I'm just making a grocery run.
 

Alloy

Well-known member
Yes, from a strictly financial POV that makes the most sense.

LFP is really only needed where the weight savings are worth the cost premium.

Lithium is lighter/more compact but it is also a much more efficient battery.

My $.0002 is the efficiency is useful when charging with a motor/genertor but not as useful when charging with solar.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Yes to fully absorb ICE output when short runtime is important, takes a much higher capacity lead bank, and lifetime with lead is reduced if not fully charged.

But that may not be worth paying 7x or more per usable Ah (US market)
 

shade

Well-known member
Yes, from a strictly financial POV that makes the most sense.

LFP is really only needed where the weight savings are worth the cost premium.
Weight and space are two of the main reasons I want LFP. I'd need a heavier & larger FLA battery bank to equal the useable output of a single 160Ah LFP battery. Heavier & larger doesn't work well with a Toyota Tacoma.
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
Weight and space are two of the main reasons I want LFP. I'd need a heavier & larger FLA battery bank to equal the useable output of a single 160Ah LFP battery. Heavier & larger doesn't work well with a Toyota Tacoma.

I agree on the weight and space reasons for going Lithium, and Shade, just so you know the 160Ah battery is going away Victron says, so grab them now while on sale.
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie

shade

Well-known member
How about FLA batteries?....I'm half joking because I've spent allot of time & more $$ on projects but I'm also thinking protecting the battery is going to cost as much as the battery....if charging below 34F is needed there's more $.
For my use, low temperature charging won't be a big concern. I'll have a manual master charge disconnect in addition to the automated external one, and the battery is smart enough to disconnect itself, too. If I'm not using it, the battery can sit at 70% SoC in the cold for quite awhile.

I'm installing the battery inside the truck cab, so it'll be easier to keep warm, too. LFP can be discharged below freezing, and the battery will warm up with a decent load on it. Running a hot plate for breakfast should develop enough heat to keep it happy for awhile.
 

shade

Well-known member
I agree on the weight and space reasons for going Lithium, and Shade, just so you know the 160Ah battery is going away Victron says, so grab them now while on sale.
Thanks for the tip! Inverter Supply has a good price. I was wondering why they were so much cheaper than other capacities.

I was reading about the Buck-Boost as the method for connecting my Ford factory setup to the aux Lithium....maybe the 50A version as the 100A is too much money.
The 100A is a big chunk of money.

I'm going to check my alternator's output in a minute to see how high it goes.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
The Victron Buck Boost is great **as a converter**, does the voltage conversion and current limiting admirably

So long as you have other external devices controlling the stop-charge point, or you plan to do so manually.

It does not have any "charge regulation" logic itself.
 

shade

Well-known member
AGM resting voltage: 12.4
Engine at idle: 13.8
Engine at 2500 rpm: 14.0

I think I'll let it ride for now, and keep an eye on alternator output once the system is in place. One measure I can take is to keep alternator charging disconnected unless it's actually needed, and let solar do the work.
 

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