Yep. I've been a private pilot for 20 years. Started to build a Cozy MK-IV back in 1999 but sold that off and decided to build an RV-7A.
Voyager is Completed (Build Thread)
- Thread starter azscotts
- Start date
Yep. I've been a private pilot for 20 years. Started to build a Cozy MK-IV back in 1999 but sold that off and decided to build an RV-7A.
As long as you think things through and go methodically, you'll be fine. I may be mechanically inclined, built airplanes, etc., but I'm learning things on this build too.
This weekend was pretty slow going:
- Routed out a space for some small shelves on the cabinets and fabricated some smaller parts. I'm trying to get all of this ready so I can finish the cabinets.
- Cut out the lower-rear exterior pieces. Marked out the cutout for the storage area for the folding tables. The door is 10"x48" with a lock so I was pretty excited to find a door that worked for that small area. I was worried I would be fabricating a door.
- Routed out a space for some small shelves on the cabinets and fabricated some smaller parts. I'm trying to get all of this ready so I can finish the cabinets.
- Cut out the lower-rear exterior pieces. Marked out the cutout for the storage area for the folding tables. The door is 10"x48" with a lock so I was pretty excited to find a door that worked for that small area. I was worried I would be fabricating a door.
LexusAllTerrain
Expedition Leader
:coffeedrink:
This week was slowed down a bit by some local "dog" issues in the household. Our eldest Boxer managed to escape, twice. He was found both times and all is good. Little sucker has never once wandered off in 9 1/2 years, now it was twice in 4 days.
It's worn on my desire to do anything other than love on him. I did manage a number of hours in the shop last night and was able to get some stuff done last night:
- Glued the lower section of the rear wall together.
- Cut out the small shelves that will be attached to the sides of the cabinets. The sides of the cabinets will also get a plexiglass cover with switches and indicators built into them. It's tough to explain whats going on here, but the shelves are basically a "device shelf". I will be installing a couple of USB power ports so you can toss your phone up there and let it charge overnight and out of the way.
- Routed the lower parts of the cabinets and 'device' shelves. This was a simple round-over cut to make the edges of the shelves and cabinets rounded. This will hopefully minimize any injuries should anyone bump an arm, shoulder, head, etc. on the cabinets.
- Built the 'floor plate' for the pullout pantry. This is a simple piece of 1/2" plywood with 3/4"x 1.25" supports attached to the bottom. (Pictured: testing out the logistics of the pantry and the floor-plate. This was a test fit only.)
- Tonight I will be getting the galley bulkhead and permanently installing the floor-plate of the pantry along with the pantry. After that, I can build a top to the pantry and use the slider on the top to stabilize the whole structure.
- Also building the top part of the table storage area. This will also be the floor of the galley where the pullout for the fridge on the drivers side and a small counter-top and cabinets for the passengers side.
This is what it will look like from the outside, slightly extended:
Dry fitting in progress:
It's worn on my desire to do anything other than love on him. I did manage a number of hours in the shop last night and was able to get some stuff done last night:
- Glued the lower section of the rear wall together.
- Cut out the small shelves that will be attached to the sides of the cabinets. The sides of the cabinets will also get a plexiglass cover with switches and indicators built into them. It's tough to explain whats going on here, but the shelves are basically a "device shelf". I will be installing a couple of USB power ports so you can toss your phone up there and let it charge overnight and out of the way.
- Routed the lower parts of the cabinets and 'device' shelves. This was a simple round-over cut to make the edges of the shelves and cabinets rounded. This will hopefully minimize any injuries should anyone bump an arm, shoulder, head, etc. on the cabinets.
- Built the 'floor plate' for the pullout pantry. This is a simple piece of 1/2" plywood with 3/4"x 1.25" supports attached to the bottom. (Pictured: testing out the logistics of the pantry and the floor-plate. This was a test fit only.)
- Tonight I will be getting the galley bulkhead and permanently installing the floor-plate of the pantry along with the pantry. After that, I can build a top to the pantry and use the slider on the top to stabilize the whole structure.
- Also building the top part of the table storage area. This will also be the floor of the galley where the pullout for the fridge on the drivers side and a small counter-top and cabinets for the passengers side.
This is what it will look like from the outside, slightly extended:
Dry fitting in progress:
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Great weekend out in the shop. I installed the galley bulkhead that separates the galley and the storage area. I then rolled on the bedliner to protect the inside of the storage area. This stuff works great! After two coats it has a nice sealed finish and cleans up great with a vacuum. The best part is, if I ding it up with gear, I can simply roll on some more to cover up the dings.
Here is a test fit of the door to the storage area (drivers side)
This image is after the bulkhead was installed and before I installed the floor that supports the pull out pantry.
This is a shot of the inside of the storage area (looking towards passengers side). I wanted to test fit the door with the floor installed and ensure the roll-out pantry has clearance around the lip of the door. I installed the pantry and
I installed 3/4" x 1.5" hardwood strips for reinforcement on the bulkheads. I know it seems redundant with all of the glue and fasteners I am using, but it will be sturdy and I'm doing my best to make sure that what I build is sealed and stays together.
The lower rear panel was cutout and installed this weekend as well. I picked up a 10" x 48" door with a lock on eBay for $50. I have already test fit the door and made sure the tables slide in and out with the door installed.
I rolled on the bedliner after I took this picture.
Next was to fabricate the galley "floor". I'm not really sure I can call this a floor since no one will be standing on it, but it is what it is. The next step will be to use my oak strips to fabricate a storage cubby for the passengers side of the galley. I was going to use a pre-fabbed cabinet from Lowes, but it's too wide to allow me access to the electrical stuff and won't allow me much clearance for a pullout refrigerator. The cubby will be 22" deep so it'll hold plenty. It will also support a laminate countertop I've got my eye on over at Lowes. I will need to trim the countertop down both lengthwise and in depth, but it'll be worth it.
I'm going to be running some conduit through the sidewalls of the galley to provide electrical for the LED taillights.
Here is a test fit of the door to the storage area (drivers side)
This image is after the bulkhead was installed and before I installed the floor that supports the pull out pantry.
This is a shot of the inside of the storage area (looking towards passengers side). I wanted to test fit the door with the floor installed and ensure the roll-out pantry has clearance around the lip of the door. I installed the pantry and
I installed 3/4" x 1.5" hardwood strips for reinforcement on the bulkheads. I know it seems redundant with all of the glue and fasteners I am using, but it will be sturdy and I'm doing my best to make sure that what I build is sealed and stays together.
The lower rear panel was cutout and installed this weekend as well. I picked up a 10" x 48" door with a lock on eBay for $50. I have already test fit the door and made sure the tables slide in and out with the door installed.
I rolled on the bedliner after I took this picture.
Next was to fabricate the galley "floor". I'm not really sure I can call this a floor since no one will be standing on it, but it is what it is. The next step will be to use my oak strips to fabricate a storage cubby for the passengers side of the galley. I was going to use a pre-fabbed cabinet from Lowes, but it's too wide to allow me access to the electrical stuff and won't allow me much clearance for a pullout refrigerator. The cubby will be 22" deep so it'll hold plenty. It will also support a laminate countertop I've got my eye on over at Lowes. I will need to trim the countertop down both lengthwise and in depth, but it'll be worth it.
I'm going to be running some conduit through the sidewalls of the galley to provide electrical for the LED taillights.
Enjoying your build. It is amazing to see the design as I have almost finished mine in Sketchup and they look very similar. I came to the conclusion after building my first teardrop that I needed to put the storage area over the axle, as you have. I found that I filled my box on the front of the trailer up with gear and increased the tongue weight all the time.
I will watch with interest.
Laurie
I will watch with interest.
Laurie
I feel like I haven't accomplished anything in the last two weeks, but that isn't the case. I just haven't accomplished much that is picture worthy. Let's face it, if I just put words up here, no one would read this thread.
The last couple of weeks I have made huge advances in getting Voyager on the road:
- Installed all the wiring for the trailer lighting - including running the conduit under the trailer and into the galley.
- Installed the galley "floor" permanently.
- Constructed a rear-cubby that will host the countertop and provide some additional storage in the galley.
- Finished the cabinets with the Gel Stain. I am using General Finishes Java Gel Stain and 3 coats of Poly.
- Cut out all of the holes, recesses and access point for electrical for the on-board trailer systems such as interior lighting, fan controls, etc.
- Finished prepping the cabinets for final installation in the cabin.
- Stained and Poly'd the rear shelf.
- Installed the rear shelf in the aft section of the cabin.
- Cut out the pieces of acrylic that will host the switches and other electrical components. These will get installed on the end of cabinets to 'finish' out the sides of the cabinets.
- Ran the charge line and ground from the trailer wiring box to the rear area of the trailer. There are 3 wires (charge, 12v aux, ground) and they will go the batteries and galley.
- Built up a number of wiring harnesses that will bring power from the batteries to the main cabin components such as the charging stations, inverter, reading lights, etc.
Here's a couple of pictures that show some of the finish on the cabinets and the storage compartment in the galley.
The last couple of weeks I have made huge advances in getting Voyager on the road:
- Installed all the wiring for the trailer lighting - including running the conduit under the trailer and into the galley.
- Installed the galley "floor" permanently.
- Constructed a rear-cubby that will host the countertop and provide some additional storage in the galley.
- Finished the cabinets with the Gel Stain. I am using General Finishes Java Gel Stain and 3 coats of Poly.
- Cut out all of the holes, recesses and access point for electrical for the on-board trailer systems such as interior lighting, fan controls, etc.
- Finished prepping the cabinets for final installation in the cabin.
- Stained and Poly'd the rear shelf.
- Installed the rear shelf in the aft section of the cabin.
- Cut out the pieces of acrylic that will host the switches and other electrical components. These will get installed on the end of cabinets to 'finish' out the sides of the cabinets.
- Ran the charge line and ground from the trailer wiring box to the rear area of the trailer. There are 3 wires (charge, 12v aux, ground) and they will go the batteries and galley.
- Built up a number of wiring harnesses that will bring power from the batteries to the main cabin components such as the charging stations, inverter, reading lights, etc.
Here's a couple of pictures that show some of the finish on the cabinets and the storage compartment in the galley.
The storage cabinet for the passengers side got wired and installed this weekend. Drivers side occurs tonight. They turned out great! I was really pleased with the finished look the trailer is starting to show.
I also wired in the junction box for the 7-way wiring connector. Did some cable management, etc. The openings will be all sealed up with silicone sealant from underneath to prevent water intrusion. Then I will build a small storage cabinet around the forward section and finish it the same as the other storage.
I also wired in the junction box for the 7-way wiring connector. Did some cable management, etc. The openings will be all sealed up with silicone sealant from underneath to prevent water intrusion. Then I will build a small storage cabinet around the forward section and finish it the same as the other storage.
The last few days have been great. I installed the drivers side cabinet and wired up the cabinet lights. The cabinet lights were an easy install. They come in a strip with a self-adhesive backing, extra connectors, and instructions for wiring, etc. Not bad for a $10 roll of LED lights.
My goal it to get a roof on Voyager this weekend. I'm pretty sure I have everything in the cabin installed that needs to be there.
The galley still needs some internal work and a set of cabinets installed before I put the rear outer-wall on, but I should be able to complete that in the next 4-5 days.
My goal it to get a roof on Voyager this weekend. I'm pretty sure I have everything in the cabin installed that needs to be there.
The galley still needs some internal work and a set of cabinets installed before I put the rear outer-wall on, but I should be able to complete that in the next 4-5 days.
I got the rear cabinet installed and stained. I even managed to get a couple of coats of poly on it. These are just some pre-fabbed cabinets from Lowes. They run about $62 each and saved me a bunch of time. The only modifications I made to them was to install the center post. For the rear cabinet, I added another piece of 3/4" oak to get it flush to the wall.
I built and installed the front roof section on the trailer. For the roof sections, they go together much like the wall sections. I build them in the shop and do all the necessary drilling/screwing/gluing prior to installation. I even install the interior fabric prior to installation. I then run a bead of wood glue on the wall frames and set the roof section down on the camper. In go the 2 1/2" wood screws. Everything is matching up nicely so I can safely say that my tape measure is accurate.
A little military humor thrown in for good measure...
Once the roof section was on - I installed and wired the reading lights in the front of the cabin.
I managed to get a jump on the main section of the roof, but I didn't snap any pictures of the those pieces. The wiring will run in this area so I have to drill the supports and the holes for that as well as the 14.25" opening for the fantastic vent. The main section is going to be over 8' long so I will definitely need some helpers getting it up on the trailer.
I built and installed the front roof section on the trailer. For the roof sections, they go together much like the wall sections. I build them in the shop and do all the necessary drilling/screwing/gluing prior to installation. I even install the interior fabric prior to installation. I then run a bead of wood glue on the wall frames and set the roof section down on the camper. In go the 2 1/2" wood screws. Everything is matching up nicely so I can safely say that my tape measure is accurate.
A little military humor thrown in for good measure...
Once the roof section was on - I installed and wired the reading lights in the front of the cabin.
I managed to get a jump on the main section of the roof, but I didn't snap any pictures of the those pieces. The wiring will run in this area so I have to drill the supports and the holes for that as well as the 14.25" opening for the fantastic vent. The main section is going to be over 8' long so I will definitely need some helpers getting it up on the trailer.
The last two days, I've been building the roof so that I can get it installed. Tonight, I should be able to cover the roof with fabric and get it installed. You never realize just how much prep work goes into building a camper with your own engineering. Building the roof has involved:
Pre-drilling the connection joint with the front roof section
Gluing and screwing the butt joints for the roof sections
Drilling out electrical channels
Gluing and screwing on the supports
Cutting out the opening for the Fantastic fan
Attaching the headliner fabric
I should be able to get this installed tonight. At least that s the plan.
Pre-drilling the connection joint with the front roof section
Gluing and screwing the butt joints for the roof sections
Drilling out electrical channels
Gluing and screwing on the supports
Cutting out the opening for the Fantastic fan
Attaching the headliner fabric
I should be able to get this installed tonight. At least that s the plan.
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This thing is taking on a life of its own...there are so many different things going on it's tough to know what to work on at any given time. Here's a few things I have completed:
- The interior ceiling is installed and I have attached all of the roof insulation.
- The galley is pretty much complete except for the wiring mess that will become the fuse panel.
- I also managed to get the Lock-n-Roll trailer-side coupler drilled to the tongue.
- I welded on the expanded steel to the "floor" of spare tire carrier.
- I fit the swivel trailer jack to the tongue.
- The interior ceiling is installed and I have attached all of the roof insulation.
- The galley is pretty much complete except for the wiring mess that will become the fuse panel.
- I also managed to get the Lock-n-Roll trailer-side coupler drilled to the tongue.
- I welded on the expanded steel to the "floor" of spare tire carrier.
- I fit the swivel trailer jack to the tongue.
The exterior is done. The process went a lot easier than I expected. The walls were attached first and the rear hatch cutout was attached. The roof went on last overlapping the walls. I then use a flush trim bit to bring it flush with the walls. Then I took to the edges with a roundover bit and the orbital sander. The exterior came out AMAZING!
The holes are getting filled now. Then I will take the orbital back to it to smooth it all out. My fiberglass and epoxy are on the way from Aircraft Spruce - they should be here tomorrow. I'm hoping to get the first coats of epoxy on Wednesday night.
Tonight, I'm hoping to get the front storage area completed...mostly. I have to do some tricky sawing at a 10 degree angle to give the doors a nice, slick-looking upslope towards the front wall. SO I have to drag the table saw out to make the angle cuts. Then I have to install some 1 1/4" x 3/4" oak pieces for the supports.
I have a way in mind on how to attach the front storage.
- I should be able to mark it from the inside then drill through the wall to the exterior.
- Then use screws from the outside to secure the front piece to the trailer.
- Fill in the holes from the outside and voila, it's secured permanently.
Here's a shot from the exterior. Please ignore the insulation sitting on the roof. I just didn't have any other place to store it until I can get it thrown away.
The holes are getting filled now. Then I will take the orbital back to it to smooth it all out. My fiberglass and epoxy are on the way from Aircraft Spruce - they should be here tomorrow. I'm hoping to get the first coats of epoxy on Wednesday night.
Tonight, I'm hoping to get the front storage area completed...mostly. I have to do some tricky sawing at a 10 degree angle to give the doors a nice, slick-looking upslope towards the front wall. SO I have to drag the table saw out to make the angle cuts. Then I have to install some 1 1/4" x 3/4" oak pieces for the supports.
I have a way in mind on how to attach the front storage.
- I should be able to mark it from the inside then drill through the wall to the exterior.
- Then use screws from the outside to secure the front piece to the trailer.
- Fill in the holes from the outside and voila, it's secured permanently.
Here's a shot from the exterior. Please ignore the insulation sitting on the roof. I just didn't have any other place to store it until I can get it thrown away.
Fiberglass for the exterior is going on. I have already finished up the nose and forward 30% of my rig. I should get a large chunk done tonight. I am really hoping to be putting down the micro and sanding by Sunday.
For anyone who's never worked with fiberglass before, here's some tips I learned from building the plane:
- Have plan for laying things out.
- Have lots of gloves, brushes, cups, stirring sticks, squeegees, scissors, etc. cleaned and ready to use.
- Fiberglass does not deal well with sharp bends so your corners and joints must be rounded. For my camper, I used a roundover bit on the roof/wall joints. For inside joints, I recommend cotton flox or something similar for rounding the interior radius.
- When glassing over wood you MUST put down a coat or two of epoxy before you lay down your cloth. If you don't, the wood will suck the epoxy out of your cloth, and you'll have dry spots that WILL delaminate from the wood.
- When you put down your epoxy, always work the epoxy from the center out, this will eliminate air bubbles and give you an even smooth layup.
- Always work from the top down, let gravity be your friend when working on flat to vertical surfaces.
For anyone who's never worked with fiberglass before, here's some tips I learned from building the plane:
- Have plan for laying things out.
- Have lots of gloves, brushes, cups, stirring sticks, squeegees, scissors, etc. cleaned and ready to use.
- Fiberglass does not deal well with sharp bends so your corners and joints must be rounded. For my camper, I used a roundover bit on the roof/wall joints. For inside joints, I recommend cotton flox or something similar for rounding the interior radius.
- When glassing over wood you MUST put down a coat or two of epoxy before you lay down your cloth. If you don't, the wood will suck the epoxy out of your cloth, and you'll have dry spots that WILL delaminate from the wood.
- When you put down your epoxy, always work the epoxy from the center out, this will eliminate air bubbles and give you an even smooth layup.
- Always work from the top down, let gravity be your friend when working on flat to vertical surfaces.