Water Storage solution

brushogger

Explorer
Hey Gary. Ignore the naysayers. This is a really cool build using creativity and technology new to the majority of us. Please finish posting the build. New ideas are always poo poo'd by those with no imagination. If anyone on this forum doesn't like this thread, just shut up, move on, and let the rest of us enjoy.

PS. I currently use the Swiss water bladders and they are great for me, but not necessarily for everyone.
 

xpdishn

Adventurer
Stay tuned. The nagavator has talked me into finishing the build. Sometime this weekend.
Thanks for the comments.
 

bobDog

Expedition Leader
PS. I currently use the Swiss water bladders and they are great for me, but not necessarily for everyone.
And all this time I thought a Swiss Water Bladder was something I got from drinking to much the night before.....Wow...I never......:Wow1:
 

matthewp

Combat Truck Monkey
Is this the part where I recommend shoehorning a couple of those 10 gal drinking coolers with taps behind the front seats?:elkgrin:

Seriously though, Gary that is a very impressive project! I had never heard of hot air welding before. Keep up the good work, I look forward to seeing the finished thread. Thank you Paula for the support on the project!

Gary, out of curiosity, have you estimated the capacity of the tank?
 

Ruined Adventures

Brenton Cooper
This is a cool project. I've never heard of anyone fabricating a water tank by welding plastic panels before. Heck, I've never heard of welding plastic at the DIY level. It makes me wonder what other useful things can be produced by using the same methods. Please continue on...
I'd like to see more too. I've been curious about welding plastic for a while...we have a bunch of plastic welded trays and boxes in our truck compartments at work. They do an amazing job of organizing items and keeping large heavy objects strapped down. Seems fairly lightweight and sturdy. I'm sure we were charged an arm and a leg for the labor, but it looks like something that would be fairly simple once you get the hang of it.
 

xpdishn

Adventurer
First to answer a very basic question posed above that should have been included in my first post ----- the capacity is 17 gallons.

OK, back to the build --- after rereading what I have already posted, I want to go all the way back to the start. I had been talking about building a tank to some people at work and someone mentioned “hot air welding”. Never heard of it so did a web search and it sounded like something I should be able to do. I did some welding about 40 years ago, so it should be like getting on a bike - right? Not quite. So in my search, found that there is really only one product - The Leister Hot Air Welders. There are many models to chose from, so I called the company at http://www.hotairtools.com/. It’s obvious that they sale to commercial vendors and was leary of how my home application would be received. No worries, the guy I talked to spent as much time giving me advice and answering question as was necessary. I never felt like he had better things to do, they are very helpful. So I ended up with this:

053-1.jpg

It’s the Leister Triac S model, with adjustable temp settings. Really, it’s just a heat gun with extras.
The next 3 pics will surely answer some questions. The first shows a roll of welding “rod”. They have short bars but this is the most economically way to buy it. I also didn’t have a clue how much I needed so I went this route.

055.jpg

The next 2 pics show the tip I got, with help again from the sellers. The second pic shows the welding rod inserted into the tip. Of course you pull the rod back until it’s flush with the end, heat up the two pieces of plastic you want to weld, keep steady pressure on the rod until you fell that it is adhering to the plastic and draw back on the welder. The rod automatically feeds onto the plastic.

054-1.jpg

056-1.jpg



So now I bought a pretty expensive welder, welding rod and plastic and I’m going to build a tank. ??
See the first pic on page 1, this is the point where I was staring at the “blank canvas”.. How do I convert that very complex space into a solid tank? For some reason I thought about how hot the water would get. Out on the trail or even on the road the floor gets very hot, so I didn’t want that heat transferring directly to the tank - what to do? I had some ½” Styrofoam from something, so I fab some pieces to fit on the floor and up the rear incline. This also would give it some cushion.

0052.jpg

Next what do, I do to not waste tons of plastic in the fitment of the space.? I also had tons of cardboard and so I built a cardboard template. Didn’t take pics of that but you can see it under the tank pieces in this pic.

001.jpg



I’ll digress here to describe my first attempt. The tools I had were a table saw, Makita chop saw, drill press (even though it doesn’t come into play until close to the end product) and hand tools. As you can see in the photo above, there are very few 90* cuts. Doing compound cuts on a table saw is insanely time consuming and not fun at all. I did persevere and one tank was completed, sans top. See first page. The welding wasn’t what I would call pretty. Pretty is good because a pretty weld will hold water. After many many attempts to stop the leaks, I thru in the towel and started my 2nd tank.
Before starting I evaluated what I did and didn’t do correct on the 1st tank.
1. I hand held, for a better term, the pieces together for the welding. The wife helped a lot here.
Lesson - plastic warps and does what it wants if given a chance.
Solution - build a wooden template.

2. I used short pieces of welding rod and had many weld joints - don’t do that again. Joints leak. Water will find a way through.
Solution - one continuous weld for each piece.

3. The tools I used were not up to the job. Using the table saw was not the answer. The two tools one HAS to have are the table saw and a compound bevel miter saw. With the wife helping me, she saw just how much time it took to make all the cuts and agreed to me getting a Dewalt 12” compound saw. Home Depot just so happened to have them on sale with the stand. Lesson - Have to proper tools. Having been a carpenter for over 20 years, I knew that but didn’t follow my own experience.

So, with the right tools, more accurate angles and bevels being cut, a better weld was to follow. Hopefully.
My next step before I mutilated anymore plastic was to mutilate some wood. The template shown on the first page was a difficult project in it’s own right.

to be continued.......
 
Last edited:

xpdishn

Adventurer
So now I had a physical thing that I could measure and cut plastic. Have to say here again, nothing about this project was fast and clear cut.
So, as seen on the 1st page, I could clamp the pieces and weld without the plastic warping or moving on me. Well the warping was kept at a minimum.
I did use some templates on the 1st tank that I again used on the 2nd:

125.jpg

123.jpg

122.jpg


During the build of the 2nd tank, I still had quite a few items that needed to be addressed.
I really needed to have in hand a lid or lids. As seen on the 1st tank the baffles were flush with the top of the sides. That wouldn't work after receiving the lids I ordered. They needed to stop about 2” from the top. The reason I ended up with such large lids, 8”, was the theory that they would allow me to clean and have access to all 4 compartments - 2 baffles = 4 compartments. The theory was right on. More about this later.
Another item were the fittings to be used to get the water out of the tank. I found that US Plastics carries just about everything on needs for doing my project. Go here to see an example. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ImageViewer.aspx?description=High-Flow+Quick+Disconnect+Couplings+by+Colder&curimage=tubing%2f60684p.jpg&image=tubing%2f60684p.jpg&catid=926&itemid=28384
Once I had what I thought I needed, I proceeded with the building of the 2nd tank. Once it was completed and tested for water tightness (only 1 very small leak), I test fit it in it's final place. This pic show the test fitting of the lid, the baffles and the new storage bulkheads I had to build.

0024.jpg


Next is the top setting on the tank, with the lids not yet attached.

0043.jpg

You can see a quick disconnect at the left top of the tank. At this point I have the water pick up lines in place, of course, had to do it before welding the top.

Looking down into the tank:

0053.jpg


Here you can see the lines. At this point I was hoping that my idea would work. From the quick disconnect in the pic above, I have a water line run horizontally to the back of the tank, then vertical to the bottom. From there it runs along the bottom, over the hump and then to the other side. The two laterals on the floor have holes drilled for the water to enter. That was my theory. In the end, my theory worked!!! With one small adjustment. I had to redo the left hand pick-up line as it had too many holes so the left side emptied well before the right did, leaving a lot of water that I couldn't get out of the tank. So those large lids did just what I thought they should do - allow me to reach in and replace the line. One more thing. I beveled the bottom corner of both baffles to keep the lines on the floor of the tank. That worked also.
I hadn't got this far with the 1st tank and the uncertainty of success was actually growing not getting less. I would now have to weld the top.
The top was the most difficult weld of the whole thing. I couldn't clamp anything and the long sides were warped somewhat. This is where Paula stepped up and did a superb job of man(woman) handling, pushing and pulling on the sides to make them straight. Couldn't have done it without her. Couldn't have even got this far without her. Thanks Paula.
So with the top on, here's a couple of pics as it sits in the FJ (his name is Bob for those who are close to him) My feeling is the tank is located in the best place possible in a rig - as low as possible within the cabin and in the center, distributing the weight to all four wheels.

017.jpg

016.jpg


I wanted to know how much water was in the tank as it was being used on the trail, so I added a site gauge on the side.

0015.jpg


The one last remaining item with the tank is to strap it to the floor. I started another thread about hard points on the floor and have received some great advice. Just need to do it.
 
So now onto the other half of this build - getting the water to where I wanted it to go.


to be continued.......
 
Last edited:

xpdishn

Adventurer
A side note -- I now have 17 gallons of water on the floor not 2 feet from my Yeasu radio that is mounted under the drivers seat. That had to be moved up and out of the way. More on that later.
Where to put a 12v pump and a ham radio? For the FJ there is tons of room behind the rear side bulkheads, so of course it should be the drivers side. Quick pic of the bulkhead moved away from the side:

0112.jpg


Here is a view of the area:

0063.jpg


Here is the final resting place for the ham, on top of the wheel well:

0072.jpg


Once I had the ShurFlow pump, I had to find a place for it. ****the intake and outflow fittings come straight out the sides of the pump. I had to get fittings from the RV store that were 90* fittings - the only way this placement would work****
This pic shows the pump. It was a challenge to drill the holes to mount the thing, but it was worth it. It is located on the forward downslope of the wheel well.

0082.jpg


Of course rewiring for the ham and wiring for the pump is not quick or easy.
Hose fittings: I bought 3 of the disconnects shown in the above post, 1 for the tank, 1 to go thru the bulkhead and the last for the shower. They all have barbed ends for the hoses.
 
The fit up of the hoses to and from the pump was also a bit challenging. Here is a pic showing somewhat what is involved. The rear cabin bulkhead is to the left with the hose connected to the quick disconnect. To the right you might discern the pump and other hoses. It’s a rats nest back there, but it works.

013.jpg


To the rear of the pump isn’t so bad as there is more room for the water lines. Sorry no pic.
So here’s the same pic from above showing the tank and bulkhead quick disconnects with the water line installed.

016.jpg


When all put back together, here is pic with both storage areas reinstalled. Shows the final location of the external speaker for the ham as well as the rear shower disconnect, faucet and switch for the pump. The pump is a automatic shut off pump when water is not running, but if something lets loose on the trail I didn’t want the pump to come on and have X gallons of water all over, so that is the reason for the separate switch.

0016.jpg


And a close up before it was fully put back together:

0035.jpg


And then to show is really works:

058.jpg

As you can see the faucet swings out for use and then swings back in, tucked against the rear bulkhead safely out of the way.

We have taken this on several day trips on some really rough roads and everything has held up so far.
This build is on par, for importance, luxury and convenience, with the aux. fuel tank, RTT and fridge. We are looking forward for an extended trip where we can use the shower. That’s luxury.


This took several months to do, but it's worth it.
 
Last edited:

bobDog

Expedition Leader
Great freaking job.....thanks for sharing. :ylsmoke: I would never have tried that.......you brave dude.
 

targa88

Explorer
Gary.
One word: Brilliant
I look at the fabrication, design and ingenuity and it is absolutely impressive. Getting everything to fit, like a jigsaw puzzle.
I had never heard of hot air welding, until you mentioned it. Quite the undertaking. Learn how to weld while making it. Kudos to you for making this one of a kind/custom water storage.

Master craftsman/ fabricator :bowdown:
 
That is outstanding, congratulations on a great idea and great job. I wish we would have done this in our LandCruiser!

If I may ask: is the welded area like a single piece of HDPE? No chance of leakage or coming apart?
 

chasespeed

Explorer
Outstanding... thank you for sharing....

I second the question asked above.... I need to build storage with an aggregate capacity of 40 to 60 gallons..... Will be difficult... how much... give is in those panels? Will they resist cracking, etc?

Thank you for your input...

Chase
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,891
Messages
2,879,510
Members
225,497
Latest member
WonaWarrior
Top