What are Salisbury axles?

[revor]

Pegging or adding a Slipper Pad involves machining the Differential housing to accept an adjuster screw that is perpendicular to the crown wheel/ring gear at the point at which the pinion gear drives the ring gear. At the end of this (or these) adjuster screw is normally a Bronze pad that rides on the ring gear. The idea is that because when a large load is placed on the driveline the pinion actually deflects the ring gear causing failure. If the Slipper pad is in place it will help absorb some of this load. It is very a popular modification amongst Drag Racing types. Most Ford 9" and even mark Williams 11" Diff's will have a Slipper pad. Of course thos are extreem Hypoid diffs.
In many cases with a Rover diff with lower gears I have seen the pinion tooth actually break off of the pinion so in that case the pegging wouldn't do you much good. One problem with the rover diff that cannot be overcome by pegging. Due to the nature of it's being a spiral beval type gear the Pinion gear is quite tiny compared to Hypoid.

 

[michaelgroves]

I'd agree that pegging doesn't hep if you have a smaller pinion (i.e. lower gearing, rather perversely expressed as a higher number). But crownwheel flex under shock load can easily cause failure of either c/w or pinion, and that's what pegging helps with.

It's not an engineering solution that appeals to me - why not just build them stronger to start with? - but it's a viable option if for any reason you want to keep the Rover diff, you already have a locker that provides a stronger diff centre, and you are going to be doing some extreme trails (or fit huge tyres). It's not intrinsically expensive, though because it's a bit specialist, it might work out that way. It can be a DIY job - certainly less work than modifying an axle casing for a non-standard housing, I'd have thought.

The peg is not designed to run up against the c/w, of course - it is set to a minimal clearance, so that only if there is flex, does the c/w actually touch the pad momentarily.

Some heavy lorry diffs have pegs, and as stated before, drag racers, rock crawlers etc. Basically for any situation where where there are likely to be large but infrequent shock loads on the diff.

 

[Mercedesrover]

I get off my soapbox now and let Jim finish :bike_rider:

If I were going to build a Series and wanted to upgrade the axles but didn't have a lot of money to spend, here's what I would do.

First of all, leave the front axle alone. In an 88 you'll probably never break anything, and if you do, it'll just be the cheap and easy diff or maybe an axle that everyone has spares of laying around. Even in a 109 you'll most likely never have a problem up front, though things up there have broken from time to time in a long wheel-base truck.

Next I'd go out and find the elusive but available Toyota 4.7 ratio T100/Tundra style diff. Yup, they're such a thing as a 4.7 Toyota diff! Some '91-'93 T100 trucks used them and they're out there. For, say, $350 including shipping you can have this super-strong diff. Next (pimp mode on) a set of my 30-spline axles for $550 and you've got a pair over super-strong axles (pimp mode off). There, done. For $900 you've got a rear axle that you'll never break and don't have to go through the trouble of changing the front diff to match a ratio. For another $700 you can throw an ARB at it. $1600 for a very strong and capable axle with a locker. And as Keith said, a competent do-it-yourselfer can handle this job, no trouble.

If you're really going to hammer your Series truck, then yes, you can upgrade both the front and rear axles to Toyota diffs in your choice of ratio, but the cost increases significantly. You might as well install e-lockers while you're at it. Expect to spend $5k doing this, but you'll have an extremely strong pair of axles and never have to touch them again.

And yes, I agree. Pegging is a cob fix. A stop-gap for an diff that's crappy to begin with. I guess you can get away with it for a while but when much better alternatives are out there for about the same money, why bother?

jim

 

[R_Lefebvre]

If I'm not doing any rock crawling, mostly dirt roads, forest roads, mud puddles, etc.. and I'm only running 245/75/16 tires with stock gearing, etc... Do I really need to worry about my axles at all?

I've also proved to be very mechanically sympathetic with my track car, if that matters. My stock clutch and axles are living with double the stock horsepower.

I might like to do the TruTrac someday, but really doubt I'll ever do lockers.

 

[Mercedesrover]

... Do I really need to worry about my axles at all?

I don't think anyone is really doing DII stuff yet anyway. The front CV joints are probably your weakest link.

 

[Allen Bosely]

Hopefully this isn't a thread highjack as this was mentioned previously.

Great Basin Rovers. Business and Products wise. Good, Bad, Problems?

I am not wanting any one to bash them if you don't like them. I just want to know as I have been talking to Bill about a rear Salisbury and standard LR front axle rebuild with GBR's Heavy Duty shafts. What's their reputation in the LR world.

Contact me via you don't want to post it.

I am just a potential customer and trying to learn a bit before spending my $.

Allen

 

[R_Lefebvre]

I don't think anyone is really doing DII stuff yet anyway. The front CV joints are probably your weakest link.

I know the front DS is actually probably the biggest ticking time bomb that I need to do something about. And this noise that I'm hearing... makes me wonder what they sound like when they start going bad?

I'm pretty sure people are doing stuff for D2's but I'm not up to speed yet.

 

[Mercedesrover]

Never heard a bad think about Bill. I've bought a couple things from him in the past myself.

 

[Yorker]

Never heard a bad think about Bill. I've bought a couple things from him in the past myself.

I had good dealings with him in the past though with some effort I could have sourced the stuff cheaper elsewhere.

One time I discussed your Toyota 3rd member swap with him and he was rather outspoken about it being a really crappy idea- that kind of turned me off but I still bought the stuff I wanted from him.

Then after the BS on Dweeb web with the Longfield front CVs forget it- I'll send my $ anywhere else but to GBR. That was really a case where he should have stuck to the shadows and kept his mouth shut.

So now if I need anything I'll buy from you or Keith or I'll get it Via Equipe 4X4's contacts in Italy or something...

 

[Alaska Mike]

Fair enough. There are plenty of opinionated people in the Rover world. Just curious if there was bad blood due to someone getting the short end of the stick. I don't have much wiggle room for getting a raw deal- especially on a large part.

So far I've had good luck with him.

 

[Yorker]

If I'm not doing any rock crawling, mostly dirt roads, forest roads, mud puddles, etc.. and I'm only running 245/75/16 tires with stock gearing, etc... Do I really need to worry about my axles at all?

I've also proved to be very mechanically sympathetic with my track car, if that matters. My stock clutch and axles are living with double the stock horsepower.

I might like to do the TruTrac someday, but really doubt I'll ever do lockers.

With a modest tire size like that- modest loads and no lockers? I don't think you'd need to worry too much. If you were running 35" Simexes and ARBs or a Detroit- then sure you'd need to upgrade. I mean it isn't as though the old 10 spline stuff spontaneously combusts either- A lot of people have done a LOT of work offroad with 10 spline junk. You've got all the newer 24 spline stuff so you have an even larger margin of safety.

Pay for underbody protection first then upgrade the drivetrain if you find you are trying more taxing activities.

 

[Yorker]

Fair enough. There are plenty of opinionated people in the Rover world.

Man you got that right.

Just curious if there was bad blood due to someone getting the short end of the stick...

Sure someone did- IMHO Keith did. I don't want to dredge that all up here though. Search Dweeb Web and you'll find the thread- Bill's actions are/were unprofessional in my opinion and I won't send $ his way anymore as a result- nor to Ashcroft. I had an inkling of his practices back when he talked me out of Jim's stuff, the latest exchange was just the nail in the coffin as far as I am concerned.


Screw it next time I'm swapping complete TLC axles under what I build and the whole of the LR stuff can go to the scrapyard.

 

[Allen Bosely]

Thanks guys,

Yes from talking with Bill I would say he has definite opinions on some things LR.

I just wanted to verify that their products and service was basically held as,
good and acceptable So they seem to be respected in the LR community.

I have some questions about front and rear axel/diff choices, but I will start a new thread so as not to highjack this one.

Allen

 

[Allen Bosely]

Yorker, Whats Dweeb Web? A link or web addy to read what you are refering to would helpful.

Allen

 

[Yorker]

Yorker, Whats Dweeb Web? A link or web addy to read what you are refering to would helpful.

Allen

Here you go:
http://www.discoweb.org/forums

Bill's stuff is fine. If you are looking for a truetrac or detroit or even an ARB you can probably find them cheaper elsewhere though.

IMHO If you are really serious about offroading and tires >33" you need to consider the Toyota conversion though.