Wind River Ranging

TripLeader

Explorer
Part 1 [On the Road]

We were westbound in western Kansas. The rainbow was out the passenger side of the Nissan. We were bound for a place of isolation fifteen hours away because I bought a map and guidebooks a decade ago. Surely this had to be a good sign.
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We had planned it all out in April; finalized everything in the weeks prior to departure. Gear: check. Trail food: check. Vehicle shuttle: check. Hotel rooms: check. Gear (again): check.


After five years in a row of hitting Colorado's Fourteeners, we moved our destination northward. We moved our degree of difficulty in the same direction. We were all smiles and excitement on the way, even in the midst of road construction.
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We made it to our room for the night at the Sundance Motel. Late August 2022 in Pinedale, Wyoming. Weather was cool and slightly unsettled. A hint of rain was about. We made an order of two pizzas from Old Stones Pizza and banqueted in the motel room. The restaurant was short-staffed and had closed the dining room.
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We stopped by the laundromat to drop off the spare car key for the shuttle at the Clean Wash Laundromat. It was conveniently located right next door to the pizza place. The laundromat owners also owned the Great Outdoor Transportation Company. They would be driving the Nissan from trailhead to trailhead while we were hiking.


An early start in the morning took us across the street from the Sundance Motel to Obo's Phillips 66. They had a deli counter inside that offered a better breakfast selection than anywhere else in a small town at 5:00 a.m. We fueled up in anticipation of the shuttle. Our backpacks overloaded with care.
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We started to leave town when the low tire pressure light came on. We went back to Obo's and paid our quarters to top off the air pressure. It turned out to be a minor deflation from altitude. We were on our way shortly.


First light started showing behind the mountains, the Wind River Range of Wyoming. We were in store for the Wind River High Route. Eighty miles of all the high-alpine, above treeline, off trail backpacking, route finding adventure three friends could hope for. Forty pound packs would keep us supplied for the week-long trek.
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We neared the Green River Lakes Trailhead. The morning was cool and fog had settled over the water and most places near it.
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It was nearly time. The last few miles of dirt rolled by. Was that a moose out the window? Too late, no stopping now. The dream of the Winds was finally a reality. It had come through as the object for the annual mountain trip. This was the sixth year in a row of the three of us venturing out and up. Our peaks had been higher, but our ambitions had not. The scenery was about to improve and impress.
 
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TripLeader

Explorer
Part 2 [The Trailhead]

I don't recall how I first become aware of the existence of this particular range. Perhaps it was a trip to Yellowstone in 2009. Conceivably it was through Colorado mountain research. The idea and mental imagery of Cirque of the Towers did not leave my mind once it found its way in.


Our planning session had initially been to find a loop through Cirque. Any fine route would do, as long as it would keep us from doubling back over a trail we had trodden. We looked over the map, guidebooks, and the internet. We came upon the Wind River High Routes. The first was the Skurka Route. It ran 97 miles through the Winds, including an initiation by summitting Wind River Peak. But it was much too ambitious for us to complete in a week. The alternative was the Adventure Alan Route. It was only 80 miles. And it did not traverse any peaks, just plenty of high passes. Just the right amount of ambition for us.


We were settled. The WRHR was for us. What better way to see everything? We would get to see Titcomb Basin and Cirque of the Towers. Plus plenty of other places that weren't even on the radar. Odd names like Knapsack Col and exciting names like Knife Point Glacier came into our vocabulary.


Now all that planning was so far behind us. Green River Lakes Trailhead was right there in front of us.
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We stepped up to it.
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And headed down into it.
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The fog over the water gave quite the moody feeling.
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Sunlight became more bountiful and diminished the fog.
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TripLeader

Explorer
Part 3 [Cubism en Plein Air]

Squaretop Mountain had only been a side highlight in my anticipation of the hike. Just a place to mark progress on the trail, to view once, and keep moving along. I had not even heard about it before our pre-trip research had illuminated me. I thought the other peaks on the route would surpass it in terms of awe and inspiration. I found out how mistaken I was when we came upon it a few miles into our first day.
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TripLeader

Explorer
Part 4 [Between Parts 3 & 5]

We continued on the trail toward Squaretop. It was incredible that we did not sprain an ankle or fall down; we paid little attention to the trail with the big mountain in our eyes.
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Some other recreationalists had floated up the Green River Lakes and made camp.
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Squaretop Mountain. 11,695 feet above sea level. Every foot rose in grace.
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TripLeader

Explorer
Part 6 [Vista Pass]

We settled in for the night somewhere around the 15 mile mark. Those miles had brought us near Vista Pass. Speaking for myself, my feelings were fatigue, sore feet, hunger, and sweat--in that order. Dinner, erecting tents, and filtering water was the only solution. Sunlight grew dim soon after.
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jkam

nomadic man
I lived in Cora for about 5 years back in the early 80's.
The Wind River range is very much overlooked because of the Tetons.
To me, that is a good thing. Green River Lakes is a magical place.

We used to go up in the range and fish a lot of the small lakes.
Each one often had it's own variety of trout.
 

TripLeader

Explorer
I lived in Cora for about 5 years back in the early 80's.
The Wind River range is very much overlooked because of the Tetons.
To me, that is a good thing. Green River Lakes is a magical place.

We used to go up in the range and fish a lot of the small lakes.
Each one often had it's own variety of trout.

Green River Lakes had campers in many of the available sites, along the first five miles or so of the trail. It was a weekend when we passed through. It was mostly level to get there. It seemed like they were there to enjoy the weather, the lakes, and the view of Squaretop. It was not an obnoxious amount of people and nowhere near how many you would find in a national park.

The mist on the lakes was a great feel until it burned off. And it was still a great place with a great feel after it burned off.
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TripLeader

Explorer
Part 7 [1 of 9?]

One pass down? Nope. Vista Pass did not count--too low. It was in the neighborhood of 10,250 feet. You see, the Wind River High Route advertises nine high passes over 11,500 feet, all the way up to 12,200. Vista was a freebee. Still nine more to go.


Next up was Cube Rock Pass. But it still did not qualify as a high pass at only 10,685.
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Cube Rock Pass may not have counted to the WRHR, but it counted to our legs and lungs. And the payoff was the view of Dale Lake at the top.
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TripLeader

Explorer
Part 9 [Ascension]

Peak Lake was the gateway to Knapsack Col.
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A certain percentage of the hikers we encountered were Continental Divide Trail thru-hikers. They were mostly recognizable by their deeply tanned skin, shorts, trail runner shoes, ultralight backpacks, and body odor. All that and their talkative tendencies. All were solo that we encountered and almost always took the time to chat. The ones going northbound against our southbound movement all had said Knapsack Col was marvelous. I was eager to see it. There had been plenty of buildup for it.


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The beauty of the approach to Knapsack Col was not without the price of physical labor.
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TripLeader

Explorer
Part 10 [Adventure at 12,200']

The light hiker's trail gave out and turned to rocks. Rocks transformed to snowpack. We still weren't there yet. But we were closing in.
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We reached Knapsack Col. It was marginally more than a narrow ridge. It felt like the High Route had finally begun. We would not see trail again for a few more miles.


We plunged into upper Titcomb Basin.
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jkam

nomadic man
I believe the Wind Rivers have the most active glaciers in the lower 48 states.

Carry on, awesome report.
 

TripLeader

Explorer
I believe the Wind Rivers have the most active glaciers in the lower 48 states.

Carry on, awesome report.

I can fully believe that. It seemed like you couldn't swing a dead cat without hitting some phase of H2O. This was among our last views looking back from Knapsack, with Stroud Glacier on the mountain wall in late August. Bonus points to anyone who can spot the thru-hiker coming up behind us.
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We mostly toted only one liter of water each while on the trail. Just one of the benefits of all the surrounding lakes and streams.
 

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