What would you do

[colvere]

Keep the 4.0 and fix it after it dies completely, that's my plan for my 99 d1 sd

 

[czenkov]

Sadly I cannot do a diesel swap, utah emissions laws would prevent me from registering the car if I did

Live in SLC huh. that sucks

 

[baja5337]

Keep the 4.0 and fix it after it dies completely, that's my plan for my 99 d1 sd

I drove it today actually, it never overheats but once it's warm it bangs like a banshee

Live in SLC huh. that sucks

Yes, gotta do annual emissions testing

 

[Nonimouse]

Loads of other things that will make it bang

the 4.0 is a 3.9 with one or two difference and the liners only slip if you drive it like a fool - we rarely get liner slip over here even at 250k plus unless it is a 4.2/4.6

The we chuck in a set of top hat liner and carry on

Hell we even get reliability on LPG so what are you guys doing?

 

[rwhitmo04]

I sourced a good used block and then gathered all the components to build up a 4.6 to put it in.

Did you build your 4.6 by using 4.6 internals (crank, pistons, cam) and a 4.0 block, or did you get a 4.6 short/long block?

Since you already have the 4.6 internals, you can pull your block and take the 4.6 internals along with a used 4.0 block to a machine shop. Get everything checked (unless you have the tools to do it yourself). If your block and pistons aren't worn out of tolerance, then you're in business. Build a 4.6 using the 4.0 and 4.6 internals. A 4.0 short block, or even a bare block, are not hard to come by. The machine shop might charge you around $100 to check everything.

 

[upjeeper]

take ur radiator out , go buy muriatic acid from pool supply store mix it with 20% of water , fill it up inside ur radiator , wait 5 min flash it out ,do it again , and u can have almost new condition radiator ,

whenn i got my old classic it was over heating like there is no tomorrow , it was bad radiator someone told me to do the same , and after that i was amazed how cool truck run,

first do the less expensive tests ,

radiator , fun clutch , pressure test, the the most important for the rover system, ( the tiny thin hose that goes from the radiator to expansion tank ) when thats blocked it will make ur truck to over heat ,



Eric

sorry to change topics, but do you run the motor at all to get the muratic acid throughout the cooling system or just in the radiator?

 

[KyleT]

Before you call it a liner, dump 1-2qts of ATF in the oil and run it a hundred miles or so then change it and put in 5/40 rotella t6 synthetic and drive it a couple hundred more to see if it was just a lifter that was bad or noisey from being clogged up,

 

[tacr2man]

if I lived in the states Id be looking at fitting a small block chev, or LS1/2 , dont know what the dollars would be on that tho ? JMHO

 

[Ray_G]

if I lived in the states Id be looking at fitting a small block chev, or LS1/2 , dont know what the dollars would be on that tho ? JMHO

A lot more than putting a whole new Rover engine in...or building a better one, etc. Also a lot more than the truck is worth-IMHO.

 

[Nonimouse]

Lets be honest here we might have the OE parts access, but in the US you guys have a better range of decent engine builders - if I had that sort of access to specialist machine shops I would be re-building the original lump

We know it works at up to 5.2 and is reliable, although it needs a re-worked P38 alloy sump.

Where I live in the UK we have one decent engine shop, and that's in the whole county