The great debate - keep the Dana 35 rear axle or ditch it?

[besthaticouldo]

My 96 cherokee has a dana 35 in it right now, the rig has a 3.5" Rubicon Express lift (net like 4.25") and 32x11.50x15 GY MTR/k. It has an HP D30 and a Dana35 in the rear, obviously I want to regear to bring the pep back and MPG back a bit. But the debate starts in should I ditch the D35 or keep it?

Plus sides for keeping it seem to be, I already have it - parts are available for it (full case locker, gears, and shafts) - I could truss it relatively inexpensively.

The downsides are it's the Dana 35, it's notoriously weak, the shafts, the axle housing is smaller than the alternative and frankly I'm concerned it'd blow up.

Should I polish the turd or should I swap it out for an 8.8 and go that route? Either way axle will get regeared and shafts and locker or LSD.

Opinions...

 

[juicexj24]

I had one for years in my XJ running 33x10.5 BFG MT/KO on long arms with an ARB and 4.11 gears. Ran it hard, did the rock creek at Rausch Creek several times. Never had an issue with it. I did finally swap in a D44 from a guy on NAXJA for a great price, but only because the price was right.

I would say keep the tire size 33 and under, don't bang hard on the gas if your in the rocks and go with Alloy shafts and don't worry about it. Hope that helps.

 

[besthaticouldo]

I had one for years in my XJ running 33x10.5 BFG MT/KO on long arms with an ARB and 4.11 gears. Ran it hard, did the rock creek at Rausch Creek several times. Never had an issue with it. I did finally swap in a D44 from a guy on NAXJA for a great price, but only because the price was right.

I would say keep the tire size 33 and under, don't bang hard on the gas if your in the rocks and go with Alloy shafts and don't worry about it. Hope that helps.

I don't plan on doing a ton of rocks or crawling, mostly daily and expo wheeling. It'll stay at 32s probably because well they're brand new tires and have a ton of life. I was thinking a Detroit and 4.56s.

I think I'll modify it and if I come across a 44 I'll pick it up or an 8.8 in good shape for cheap.

 

[Longtallsally]

I had one for years in my XJ running 33x10.5 BFG MT/KO on long arms with an ARB and 4.11 gears. Ran it hard, did the rock creek at Rausch Creek several times. Never had an issue with it. I did finally swap in a D44 from a guy on NAXJA for a great price, but only because the price was right.

I would say keep the tire size 33 and under, don't bang hard on the gas if your in the rocks and go with Alloy shafts and don't worry about it. Hope that helps.

What he said. I ran the Rubicon multiple times and a bunch of the hard trails in Moab in my YJ with 33s and 4.88 gears and locked up with a D35 and only snapped 1 shaft (and actually it was my fault by using too much skinny pedal and still had 4.10 gears when it happened).

And since you can get junk yard shafts for pennies (relative to the cost of a properly built axle) I'd just stick with what you got- especially if you aren't planning on getting nuts in the rocks.

 

[65BAJA]

Juice what year was your XJ? The earlier 35's had stronger axle shafts and no c clips. Like 90 and down I think it is. The later ones have sort of a divot next to the splines that make them weak. The 35 in the OP's 96 XJ will have the divot and will not be as strong as the earlier ones.

 

[docwatson]

I think the other question you have to way is replacement availability. Back in Colorado Springs, there was a junkyard you could a whole axle assembly for 100. If you know how to weld and can get a cheap 8.8 I say why not. Mainly for the peace of mind. Thats just me. I don't have vast offroad driving experience so use the skinny pedal a lot more then most I think.

 

[Bobs boot camping]

the dana 35 has too many issues to overcome. For expo driving an 8.25 chrylser with a lunch box locker is worth every penny. 44 would be nice but they are more $. You can pick up a 8.25 cheep and it is arguably as strong as the 44.

 

[cshontz]

I had a Dana 35 w/ 32" tires, 3.73 gears, a lunchbox locker, and an Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case. Ran this for a couple years. No problems.

I've seen countless Dana 35s break, and the skinny pedal has always been involved. Folks bump it up and bounce with wheelspin. When the vehicle comes back down the sudden traction loads up the axle and *snap*

I think you can 'wheel a Dana 35 and have a great time, without worrying. You just have to adjust your driving style to suit the limits of the axle.

 

[demonoid369]

The question is why didn't you take in to thought the 8.25? It's stronger, cheap, bolt in,

 

[juicexj24]

Mine was an 88' so it had the older non c clips.

 

[grnhornetcustoms]

The guy that is telling you I have run a D35 with --" tires and a locker for years without any problems is always "that guy" on the trail. I have heard that said so many times just before that familiar snap sound. I cannot count how much trail time I have spent waiting since the 1987 YJ was produced. I have witnessed them break in all types of driving from pavement to minor obstacles. Chromoly axle it and move the breakage to the ring gear. It really is a turd and I am not trying to hurt feelings just know that if you are running a D35 the only upgrade you should be doing is to swap it out.

 

[big4rocks]

I've ran a few rigs with D35 rears. The latest was an '05 TJ running a super35 kit with 4:88s and a detroit and 37x14 IROKS. The ring gear was only a problem one time after I left the e-brake on while waiting on a trail. I did beat on the jeep pretty good. I prefer the 8.25s I've had in my Cherokees. I've had zero problem out of them with pretty heavy abuse. 32's and logging roads aren't going to kill a D35. It's all peace of mind and what you prefer.

 

[1911]

 

[unkamonkey]

I don't know if the D35 in my '69 Commando was the same as the Cherokee D35.
I don't even know when my 35 decided to start coming apart. A day of moderate wheeling then as I was heading home I heard a new noise. I hadn't heard any stange pops or snaps on the trail. So I limped home.
Parts of the ring and pinion were in the bottom of the case.
A flanged D44 fixed my Jeep.

 

[besthaticouldo]

The piece of mind is the main thought process. I would like to do some wheeling. I can't personally weld, but I have good friends who can and I can do all the leg work.

I'm going to call around to junkyards and see if I can get an 8.8. An 8.25 is not easy to come by here it seems.

Also, the early 8.25 is not really much stronger than a D35, the later ones are. I'd agree that an 8.25 with a locker and shafts is as strong as a 44, but an 8.8 is stronger when locked and new shafts.