Isuzu npr 4wd

[gator70]

How do folks feel about air fryers?

I don't like the high A/C watt draw on the system.
I don't have a oven in my habitat.

I looked at this - https://hajkaoven.com/pages/gallery

Very expensive

 

[mog]

Keep it simple. While I have propane cooktops in both my campers (EC-GZL and 12" composite) I end up doing most of my cooking on a single burner white gas Coleman stove outside, as if I'm camping I like to be outside enjoying the 'great outdoors', and no cooking smells (not that my cooking does not smell wonderful), no grease/moisture added to the interior, simple easy clean-up etc. The campers get used for sleeping and a hang out in bad weather/bugs, otherwise outside. If you need to bake, Dutch ovens, Folding Coleman stoves, Omnia Oven (and other brands) all work great. Get out and camp/explore and add the extras down the road if you determine a shortfall from experience.

 

[gator70]

I have a 12v - 148 liter fridge freezer in the habitat. It is a wall upright model with a freezer drawer with separate door at the bottom. To be safe I need to check on the airflow ventilation engineering. A safety check.

Does anyone know how I should test this?

(in the picture below is shown two external wall vents)

 

[gator70]

Installing this tank under the sink for drinking water. With a separate switched facet and 12v pump kit.

Adding a drinking water tank in my storage box for refills.
(will fill with Alhambra Purified Water)

This way the freshwater tank is used for only showers and kitchen sink.

 

[gator70]

XPS...who?


Again, who? If that's TC they have a square FG tube bonded inside the panel, and the bolts blindly fasten to a thick steel plate.

Seems like TC did not like the wood either - I see their recent announcements (woodless design)

 

[gator70]

To replace my rear bench seat, I bought two fold down bucket seats from a mini van in leather
(I bought universal seat mounts)

And I plan storage in the middle section (TBD)

A huge advantage to the seats is they are a fold down design, to be flat when folded down (they are third row seats)

 

[gator70]

You've asked this before and suggestions were given.
As suggested previously, asking specific questions will yield better responses than asking generic questions.
Show pictures of YOUR build and detail any specific issues you are encountering.

The access door purchase is set. The fabricated interface frame is known. The connection to the hole in the rear cab is still unknown.

Welding is the obvious answer. My welder has no experience with auto sheet metal. I'm thinking about taking the truck with hole in the rear cab to a auto body shop. Then hand them the frame. Ask them to install it.

 

[gator70]

Interface frame (example)

What gauge should I use?

 

[SkiFreak]

What gauge should I use?

From memory, you are planning on having two non connected hatches; one in the cab and the other in the camper.
If that is still the case, you just need to decide how secure you want those hatches to be, as that will ultimately determine how strong the frame needs to be.
Personally, before welding anything into the cab I would want to have this detail fully fleshed out, as well as how you are going to fill the voids that are left when the window is removed.

I have a tendency to look for adequate but less cost intensive solutions. So anything installed seems more than $60.

Good luck keeping to your $60 budget on this one...

 

[gator70]

A auxiliary gas tank is a reasonable install. However the "safe" fuel transfer is problematic. And a dual tank setup that meets safety and emission is huge cost as it is a custom build. The safe decision is to use the 2nd fuel tank for emergency fuel, and think of it as a 25 gallon jerry can.

The issue is the tank must be installed before the habitat is lifted on to the truck frame.

 

[mog]

↑ question or statement ?

 

[SkiFreak]

I have a 110 litre "jerry can" on my truck.
My setup also includes a self designed/built fuel transfer system, to ensure you're not trying to pump fuel into an already full primary tank.

 

[gator70]

I have a 110 litre "jerry can" on my truck.
My setup also includes a self designed/built fuel transfer system, to ensure you're not trying to pump fuel into an already full primary tank.

Diesel is much easier. Mine is gas.

Gas has transfer dangers.

I studied the duel tanks setup and watched a video on how to do it right with a $1400 part bill. Furthermore modern gas set ups are emission controlled and have sensors for the ECU.

Not something I wanted to do now, since my AUX tanks is a new 1974 version. (fits perfect in the frame)

Until the transfer set up is better understood, just will install the tank correctly and providing for the correct fuel filling, and a quick disconnect for access, is the plan.

Latter, I can always make changes as the best options are known.

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

Tanks in my new build.
The 200L and 110L diesel tanks are selectable while driving using a Pollak valve.
In order to maximise security, the 50L reserve diesel must be manually transferred via electric pump to the 110L tank.
All tank vents can be closed off in the event of a rollover. Imagine watching while your last water and fuel runs out on the ground in a remote area and not being able to stop it. All tanks have level gauges.

All tanks are rotomoulded MDPE in sheet steel moulds I made to fit the vehicle.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[gator70]

View attachment 900197
Tanks in my new build.
The 200L and 110L diesel tanks are selectable while driving using a Pollak valve.
In order to maximise security, the 50L reserve diesel must be manually transferred via electric pump to the 110L tank.
All tank vents can be closed off in the event of a rollover. Imagine watching while your last water and fuel runs out on the ground in a remote area and not being able to stop it. All tanks have level gauges.

All tanks are rotomoulded MDPE in sheet steel moulds I made to fit the vehicle.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

Nicely done, lots of planning, work and expense.

Works for diesel not for gas.