"I'm a thousand miles from nowhere,
Time don't matter to me.
'Cause I'm a thousand miles from nowhere,
And there's no place I wanna be."
-
Dwight Yoakam
I must pay homage to Death Valley. There is nowhere else like this hot, barren and infinite place that makes me feel so insignificant, yet... vital.
I've been fortunate to visit Death Valley several times, always in November and this was our 3rd November trip in a row. Death Valley in November is ideal with tolerable temperatures, low traffic and stellar sunrises. Somehow the furthest reaches of Saline Valley had been omitted on my previous itineraries. This November in Death Valley, was to be all about Saline Valley and the hot spring pools. So let's go to Saline Valley....
Excerpt from Roger Mitchell's, Death Valley SUV Trails -
"An enormous region of more than four hundred square miles, the Saline Valley was added to the newly created Death Valley National Park with the passage of the California Desert Protection Act late in 1994. This vast area is rich in archaeological and historical resources, has some interesting geological features and contains some very important wildlife habitat. Running through this enclosed basin is a rough road, occasionally maintained by the County of Inyo. Along this thin strand of graded dirt, access can be made to old gold mines, salt mines, borax works, sand dunes, hot springs, well-watered canyons and salt marshes. The Saline Valley Road has a little something for everyone."
Approaching the hot springs -
We didn't make it to the hot springs that evening. We were racing through Lee Flats, passing the Joshua trees at last light. By the time we began our descent down Grapevine Canyon, I had the brights on. I passed the turn off for Lippencot Road in total darkness, the pile of rocks marking the turn were barely visible in my headlights. We crawled over a rock slide without so much as a single beam of moonlight to assist us. By this time, at a top speed of oh, say 9mph, I was wishing we had stopped at Vince's for the night....
Things I learned on this trip #6 -
Don't be lazy and not air down when you have 40+ miles of washboards to navigate. Even if it's late, even if you're in a hurry, even if it's getting dark, even if you know better... just air down. Take the extra 10 minutes and do it. Your kidneys and dental work will thank you.
We inadvertently found a trail, running parallel to the main road. It didn't lead anywhere, it just tied back up to the main road after a mile or so. By now we're pooped, shaken not stirred and wanting some sleep. Feeling a little guilty, but certain we would have no late night NPS visitors, I parked in a shallow turn out on that trail, popped open the tent and called it a night. The moon played peak-a-boo over the tops of the Inyo Mountains above us while we shivered ourselves to sleep.
Military jet over the Inyo Mountains. Lots of jets....
The next morning began early. Desperate to keep moving, we roll out of our commando campsite, leaving nothing more than a few footprints as evidence of our stay. The hot springs are easily visible in the daylight and we are just a few miles away. Bouncing along the soft sandy two track, we see other travellers heading into the area. A couple of hippies, dreadlocked and stoned pass by us. Their old slide-in camper, far too big for their pre-Tacoma, was barely hanging on for dear life. Those kids didn't care. Their only concern was running out of rolling papers.
We ran into another guy, travelling solo in an old International Harvester truck with a flatbed and a slide-on camper. He was from Montana, and would be spending the entire month of December at the hot springs. Lucky SOB... he was a regular at the springs and later gave Mia and I, a tour of warm springs and the pools. It became quite clear rather quickly that our destination attracted some different types of folks than you would find at say, a Four Seasons resort hotel.
Whew!
Getting there, just a few more miles -
We pass the sign in the lead photo and snap some pics. More jets fly by, low and fast. They're disruptive but captivating. Kinda like my kids... And before we know it we are at the lower springs. An old school bus, fresh from Max Yeager's farm, painted like an acid trip and labeled as the 'Galactic Wizard', was parked front and center. Several other dreadlocked kids were standing around, nude of course, and kicking a hacky sack. I was a little disappointed with the quality of nude scenery to be quite honest. And juggling the hacky sack while naked, didn't make them anymore appealing IMO...
We found our spot another mile up the trail at Palm Springs. The palm trees stood out in stark contrast to the creosote bushes and rocks. I get us set up in a nice little spot with a perfect view of the Inyo's on one side and palm trees on the other. We would be having company later and I wanted an area with enough room for everyone but a short walk to the pools. I've barely gotten the tent up when she pulls out the chairs and falls asleep in the sun. Five minutes at the Saline Valley hot springs and she's already got it figured out.
I wonder if I can talk her into kicking around the hacky sack later?
First a soak in the sun, then in the pool -
I'm gonna like waking up to this....