Help me prioritize my mod list!

[t0mills]

Well, I've got a trip planned, that starts the second week of June.

My Suburban is far from ready.... I do, however, have a list of mods planned for it. I could use some help with prioritizing that list.


First off, a little back ground:

I haven't really travelled too much. I'm still pretty young, but have a lot of common sense. I'm more than confident that I will be able to complete this journey, but would like to do so in the best, and most efficient way possible (given my equipment).

Last year, I purchased a 1995 K2500 454ci Suburban from a fellow that lived just down the street from me. He was in the process of moving out of state, and didn't have much luck selling the thing (it had been for sale for about 2months). Keep in mind, this is when gas prices were at their highest.

The truck had a bad transmission, and he had it priced at $2500. Not a bad deal, because it had brand new wheels and tires (33x11s), new batteries, new exhaust, brush guard. It's the LT model, so it has all leather interior, AND the rear barn doors.
I didn't have that much cash, so I offered him what I could afford to spare.

$1000 cash. He accepted, and I towed the truck to my house. :ylsmoke:



I've since pulled the transmission and transfer case, and sent them off to be completely rebuilt. Tranny rebuild consists of all new upgraded parts, and a TransGo HD shift kit. All new bearings and seals in the transfer case (NP241C with manual floor shifter, instead of the push button that's on the 96+).

I've also done a complete tune up on the engine. New plugs, wires, cap & rotor, fuel filter, valve cover gaskets...ect.
Basically, I'm confident in the way the truck runs. Motor seems to need nothing.

I'm ready to begin adding mods that will enhance it's comfort when camping.

My trip consists of 3 weeks through the mountains in Colorado (Colorado Springs, Durango) then on over to Moab, then down through Vegas and into Arizona (Sedona area and more). I plan on camping most every night (except for 2 nights in Vegas), so a RTT is in order. I also plan on taking some back roads/trails around Moab and in Arizona.

Here is a list of what I've got planned so far:


Roof Top Tent - CampingLabs

45qt Fridge

Onboard Air Setup - York 210 engine driven compressor

Rear Disk Brake Conversion - replace the drums on the factory 14B FF

ARB Lockers - 14B FF & GM 9.25"

National Luna Dual Battery Setup

Custom Front Winch Bumper

Custom Rear Winch Bumper w/ Swingout Tire Carrier & Ladder

Frame Sliders

Roof Rack to hold RTT & 360degree flood lighting

Underbody Protection - Skid Plates

Jerry Cans

Custom Offroad Trailer - No way this can be completed in time...



Keep in mind, that I already have all of the custom parts designed, and have access to the machines to make them. CNC Laser, CNC Press Brake, Welders, Grinders, Powdercoat Line....
However, time is still a problem. I feel like I've got so much planned, that I don't know where to start!

So, based on this list, and what I will be using the Burb for, what would you suggest that I complete before my trip?


BTW, here are some pics of the custom parts:

Thanks in advance for your advice!

 

[02TahoeMD]

Well, you have a big list! It has taken me about 2 years to do much of what you have in mind for your rig. Sounds like you got a great deal and your CAD designs are really cool. Look forward to seeing how it turns out in reality.

As for things to get done, it depends on the trails you want to run. If you keep to mild stuff, that will make your to-do list lots easier.

My vote:
Rear brake conversion
Fridge
Dual Batteries
Tent
On board air
Slider / skid plates for just in case protection

Just my $.02 and looking forward to your build

 

[t0mills]

Thanks for your input! It's very helpful indeed.

I had actually though of the rear brake conversion being further down on the list, but it makes sense to have it near the top, since I will be doing a lot of Mountain travelling.

I will be placing my order for the RTT next week. If I don't get my custom roof rack made in time, do you see any problem with attaching the RTT to the factory roof rack?

I've also found a pretty good deal on a brand new York compressor setup that I am eyeballing.



I do plan to stick with mild trails, mainly because this will be a solo trip. Just 2 people and a suburban. How is cell phone reception out in those areas? I've considered getting a SPOT, just for the peace of mind.

 

[02TahoeMD]

If you have the three brace factory rack, attaching your RTT to it should be fine. If you don't have three brace ( cross supports guess you could call them) get one or two extra from a junkyard and then your RTT should be supported just fine.

As for my listing brakes at the top, I have always placed high priority on being able to stop quickly. I always prefer to be able to get out of trouble quickly....

Cell coverage was cruddy much of the time when I was out in CO a couple years ago. Near towns, just fine, between them, very hit or miss. I am sure other Expo'ers that live out that way can let you know better than I.

 

[BigJimCruising]

Wow! Now I know where all that missing economy went, in your bank account! lol! Sounds like a fun project! I'll throw in my $.02 but these days it's only worth $.0005.

First thing I'd work on is getting bigger tires. Nothing beats ground clearance like extra inches. All the skid plates and sliders are nice but not hitting anything in the first place is much nicer! That long a rig will have some breakover problems so get it up a little higher then those 33" tires that are on there.

If it's just you then I'd skip the tent and roof rack for now and sleep inside the rig. If it looks like hot weather fab up some screens for the windows. Maybe put some drawers in the back, toss in a matress and hit the road. The more stuff on top the more trees you'll trim the hard way.

Yes on the brakes.
Get a cheaper air compressor, Viar's are good and the money you'll save will buy most of your gas for the trip!
Skip the front locker, the rear will be good enough.
Yes on the batteries, fuel cans and fridge.
Skip all the bumpers and such for now.

You really need to get this rig out on some trails first and see what you really need to do first. No better way to build a rig then knowing what it needs first.

Good luck on your build, pics when your done and some of your trip! Jim.

 

[t0mills]

Just an update:

I recently purchased a Diehard Platinum 930cca battery from Sears, and plan on picking up another one next week. Those will be used with my dual-battery setup.

After finally identifying which version of the 14b FF rear end I have (Second Gen), I was able to order the rear disk coversion kit. It should be arriving late this week or early next.


I really got to thinking about where I will be camping, which is in the middle of nowhere. Very nice, but also very dark. I've always been a lighting fanatic, so I decided to go ahead and build my roof rack. This will allow me to mount flood lights all around the burb, and also give me a good place to mount my RTT. I will use the front of the rack for 5 of the "$100" HID lights.

I found a killer deal on some scratch & dent VisionX HID Flood lights:

http://www.visionxoffroad.com/hid/4400/

Those are what I designed the rack around, and I'm pretty excited to get this built and get them all mounted up!


Now, here's a question for you guys. I'm going to run a full 12ga sheet through the Laser, which will make much more of these parts than I need to build my rack.
Would anyone be interested in buying a few of these parts?

Here are some pics of the parts that will be run through the laser:

This one is the main divider for the roof rack, and an interior cargo rack that I will be building. It allows you to secure two 1" tubes, with 6" of separation. As you can see, this really simplifies the rack build, because you don't have to fishmouth any parts.

Here's a pic of the cargo rack that I will be building:

Here is the other part that will be run through the laser:

This is a light tab, that can be welded onto a 1" tube. You could also take a grinder and make this fit larger tubing.




Like I said, there will be quite a few extras from the sheet of 12ga that I have. If anyone is interested in a few, just shoot me a PM. I will form these on our CNC Press Brake, too.


MODs, if this sort of thing isn't allowed on this forum, feel free to edit my post, or PM me!

 

[BlueBomber]

one thing you didnt mention was your transmission cooler. is an upgrade included? ive been told that heat is an auto trans biggest problem. if it were my truck, thats one of the first things i would do. that, and some kind of oil cooler. even cheap ones like this (http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/oilfihesi2.html), if placed in some place with a little air flow, works.

 

[t0mills]

one thing you didnt mention was your transmission cooler. is an upgrade included? ive been told that heat is an auto trans biggest problem. if it were my truck, thats one of the first things i would do. that, and some kind of oil cooler. even cheap ones like this (http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/oilfihesi2.html), if placed in some place with a little air flow, works.

That's an excellent point! I forgot to mention that I have a tranny cooler already installed behind the grille. It's even got its own electric fan that kicks on when the temps get high.

This particular suburban was equipped with an engine oil cooler in front of the radiator, AND a power steering cooler that sits right beside the radiator. I'm guess it has the power steering cooler because of the hydraboost setup.

I do need to get a tranny temp gauge that I can monitor!

 

[eleblanc]

Solidwork ,Inventor?

 

[BlueBomber]

That's an excellent point! I forgot to mention that I have a tranny cooler already installed behind the grille. It's even got its own electric fan that kicks on when the temps get high.

This particular suburban was equipped with an engine oil cooler in front of the radiator, AND a power steering cooler that sits right beside the radiator. I'm guess it has the power steering cooler because of the hydraboost setup.

I do need to get a tranny temp gauge that I can monitor!

thats awesome. sounds like you have most of the reliability issues covered. just make sure that you have enough spare fluids with you to fill the up the coolers.

 

[t0mills]

Solidwork ,Inventor?

Solidworks 2k9 x64 SP2.1

 

[Jeep]

Cad/Laser is awesome, we use it every day, you cannot even fathom the amount of time it saves until you utilize it. Nice work. If I was doing your sub and basing it on a real tight budget and your fab skills here is how I would do it:

TRUCK
Winch and bumper-I imagine you'll build the bumper and you already have new 33's so use them up. It will help get you out of more things than a front and rear locker.

Rock sliders and skid plates-cheap with fab skills and will make up for a stock or near stock height.

Dual batteries.

Onboard air-like mentioned the Viars are cheap and decent.

Detroit in the rear-it's just so darn cheap, easy, and dead reliable.

I'd do the rear brakes last, those trucks have huge drums that will work OK for now, if you want I can email you a dxf of a rear caliper bracket for a 14 bolt disc conversion that I do, just blast ti out of 3/8" plate.

GEAR:

Roof rack, cause you have the skills.

Fuel cans are reasonable enough

RTT for comfort

Fridge, enough said! Warm Corona sucks!

SPOT

 

[proto]

Nice work! (I really like the ladder! Be sure and post pics when you get that done.)

You can really do some fun trips with a Suburban. Because the space inside is vast, you can live quite luxuriously. It's really easy to pack heavy with a Sub. If you can keep the gear and "expedition decoration" under control, you have flexibility to supply yourself on pretty long trips, or go light on short jaunts.

If you don't mind a little advice, I can pass on some things I've learned about 'Suburban life' on the road.

The stock driveshaft setup holds the u-joints with thin metal straps. These are a failure point for a loaded Suburban under even moderate wheeling. If you can, convert to the style that holds the joints in with little u-bolts. I eventually went to 1410-size u-joints, which required new pinion yokes and driveshaft ends. Until you have time to do that, carry some spare straps, screws, and u-joints. Don't bother with generic budget parts-store replacement straps either -- they don't fit! (Grrrr)

While you're down there messing around underneath the truck, check the mid-shaft carrier bearing. If you've had any fluid leaks from up front (especially brake fluid or power steering fluid) that will eat away the rubber mount and seals, creating noise and vibration. Other things go bad from there. Also, a bad carrier bearing saps gas mileage. There are aftermarket replacements that use polyurethane -- pricey but effective. Or you can just carry a stock spare unit and change it out as needed.

Now the big one: the long frame on these trucks is surprisingly flexible -- especially the amount of twist it allows (front end lifted on one side, rear on the other, for example). In off-road situations, it's enough to fatigue the body. One of the most susceptible places is where the roof curves down to meet the windshield: the metal bends, the paint flakes off, rust sets in and, eventually, the roof breaks above windshield. . . and worse! Putting a rack and a heavy load on the roof can amplify the problem.

I'm guessing the simplest preventative measure is a slight body lift with soft body mounts (NOT polyurethane) to let the frame twist without putting as much stress on the sheet metal.

I say "I'm guessing" because I never really got to try this out before it was too late. I have a picture of my truck "Ole '69" showing what eventually happened in my case: the sheet metal fatigued, moisture got in and rusted the front pillars and windshield surround. The leaks allowed water to collect in the doors, and they rusted through at the bottom. All this happened insidiously, from the inside out. The frame on this truck is solid, but the structural integrity of the body is so badly affected that it's now a scary ride. Too bad. (And a sad fate for a vehicle with a quarter million miles that's been all over the US, Canada, down to Panama and back!)

Anyway, do a quick inspection of the area above your windshield. If this is happening to yours, sand off the paint, apply a good etching primer, then paint over that to protect the primer.

Now a really neat idea would be to build a simple roll-cage (maybe just a few transverse hoops) and tie a stiff roof rack into that, using the structure to stiffen the body and eliminate the fatigue.

 

[proto]

Sad "Ole '69". You can see the damage above the windshield and at the bottom of the doors.



(Most of the expedition stuff has been stripped out, and the suspension's settled a bit, but she's still wearing 33x12.5 tires on 16.5 rims (slotted mags!) Note the stock bumper and 2wd. You can go a lot of places with nothing more than a locker and low tire pressure.)