Project Build: RocKrawlers 01 F250 CC SB PSD

ujoint

Supporting Sponsor
Yea, the full traction is a nice setup. I personally wouldn't bother with the new front end. You're better off with what you have, especially since you plan to keep it low. Too much work for little benefit. The trac bars on the 05's up are terrible, and expensive to replace. Plus, those giant radius arms hang down low. The $$ would be spent better on a free spin hub conversion from Dynatrac.----Chris
 

BigJimCruising

Adventurer
yup, I buy my oil at Costco and you can get filters for a little better deal at rockauto, that can get it down to like 40 or 50 bucks.

Just wait until you have to do the fuel filters!!!! Yikes!!! Ain't nuthin cheap on these babies! But I wanted to subscribe so I can follow your's until I can afford mine! Good luck!
 

RocKrawler

Supporting Sponsor
Yea, the full traction is a nice setup. I personally wouldn't bother with the new front end. You're better off with what you have, especially since you plan to keep it low. Too much work for little benefit. The trac bars on the 05's up are terrible, and expensive to replace. Plus, those giant radius arms hang down low. The $$ would be spent better on a free spin hub conversion from Dynatrac.----Chris
That hub setup would be nice, but uber-expensive to do... my 2.5" Pro Comp leveling springs do ride very nice, but might have to look into something to just make this flex better
Just wait until you have to do the fuel filters!!!! Yikes!!! Ain't nuthin cheap on these babies! But I wanted to subscribe so I can follow your's until I can afford mine! Good luck!
Already done that, not too bad.... planning on doing a spin on larger volume setup.
 

BigJimCruising

Adventurer
I've never heard of a replacement fuel filter so I'll be very interested in reading about what you do with that! I have to use my dealer for now so those darn filters run about $180 to replace each time! Killing me! One of these days I'll have someplace where I can do my own. Good luck with your build, I'll be watching and learning!
 

RocKrawler

Supporting Sponsor
Update 3/25 - took the vehicle in yesterday for a front end alignment, noticed some feathering on the tires up front - they notified me all 4 ball joints are bad & need replacing. I called my regular mechanic & he said they almost never go out at the same time, bring it in & they'll let me know. Dropped it off at 7:45 this morning... 8:30 the phone rings & they are in fact all bad - $720 for the best ones available installed (the alignment shop quoted $962) & I pick it up tonight. Ouch!
 

jdholder

Explorer
Yeah - I've heard the ball joints on these trucks do go bad.

I've also heard it's a big job - but I wonder where you got it done, cause you actually got it for a good deal. A local alignment shop here in SoCal wanted to charge me $1100 to do all mine - and he couldn't even prove that mine were bad.

FYI - You asked a while ago who did my bumper and I never answered. Jon Roohk at Castle Fabrication did mine. He does good work. http://www.castlefab.net/
 

jonathon

Active member
It is my experience with ball joints(granted, on Chevy's) that you don't realize they are bad till they start making noise or causing driveability issues, and by that time both the uppers and lowers on that side will be toast.

I did them on my 89 Suburban in November.. bought the truck for a song knowing it needed front end work. All 4 were bad beyond belief, I couldn't believe the previous owner drove the thing so long like that. Not to mention the spindle nuts were finger tight :Wow1: I think I spent a total of 12 hours doing both sides, that being my first time ever even pulling a hub/rotor assembly off, let alone a knuckle.

Now I gotta do them on my '91 V2500 Suburban.. the drivers side are the ones that are definitely bad, grabbing the tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock I can shake the whole knuckle up and down. Passenger side feels tight, but they are getting replaced at the same time.

I don't know about a Super Duty with the unit bearing D50 fronts, but on the older stand bearing d44 fronts ball joints just took a lot of time and weren't all that technical. I would think it would be similar, other than removing the unit bearing and rotor assembly(no idea how that works on a unit bearing hub).

Don't know if you've got the truck back yet or not, but it's worth checking and making sure they aren't use chicom junk for your joints.. Spicer Pro-Grade or Moog are the only way to go.
 

TreeTopFlyer

Adventurer
Wish I had read this sooner. The ball joint job isn't that bad. You can make a tool for about 15 bucks that takes care of the seals. $720 is a little steep. But it's all relative. XRF or moog are the two go to brands for me. Powerstrokeshop.com has a good priced kit as well. I think they use moog in their kit.

Cost me about $240 for the seals, o-rings, and something else, 200 for the ball joints. 15 for the tool to make. Then a little time.

As stated before, nothing on these things is cheap. I should have done the u-joints as well because you have to pull the seals for that as well and they are not re-usable. Nice design Ford.

Check your ESOF lines, if they leave black marks on your hands when you touch em, remove them. Dieselsite sells a nice braided kit. It's what i used.
 

jdholder

Explorer
Question and minor hijack.

If you replaced the automatic hubs on a SuperDuty with Warn Manual hubs, can you remove the vacuum hoses that actuate the stock auto hubs? Do you need to cap them somewhere? What's up if you don't cap them?

Thanks!!
 

RocKrawler

Supporting Sponsor
I'll keep that in mind for the next time I have to do them. Any link for those braided lines? On one post you said they were dieselsite & the other you said dieselstop...

EDIT: Nevermind - found it...
 
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RocKrawler

Supporting Sponsor
Continued in catching up on all the neglected maintenance items & had the front sway bar bushings replaced with new polyurethane units from Energy Suspension, $123.35 installed & worth the money (I dont own a press for getting the old ones out) as it has eliminated all clunking noise from the front end. I was also going to do the rear but they said the gas tank needs to be dropped to access the drivers side & I wasnt ready to pay that labor bill, I'll tackle that job myself.
As much as I'd like to post up all the goodies I plan on installing I am a firm believer of having the base vehicle completely reliable in maintenance aspects and baselined on fluids because when a used vehicle is purchased, you often done know how well it was maintained by the previous owner. I dont want to go on a run and be a liability or hold up for the group, a burden because of breakdowns. Being a responsible off roader means taking care of your equipment as part of the job.
Plans are to take the bikes out tomorrow and have some fun...
 

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