Canadian Disco 2 Build

[Roverhound]

You think too much. Stop thinking, start doing.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Yeah... lets just start cutting steel with no plan.

No wonder.

 

[michaels]

just buy a trailer hitch receiver and weld it into whatever metal you build the bumper out of. take everything to the frame. done.

that's what i did.

 

[michaels]

Yeah... lets just start cutting steel with no plan.

No wonder.

i had a plan in my head. took measurements as i went. no drawings. turned out great.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

That's basically what I'm doing. But just wanted to get a couple concepts decided before I start. I just want to know what people think, I mean, is there such an overwhelming benefit to DB points that I should wait to start this thing? Or is it just sex appeal?

And the rock slider/skidplate thing... it's pretty radical. I'm sure some of the experts have an opinion on the idea. My main concerns will be access for service, and the skidplate becoming a huge suction cup in the mud.

 

[muskyman]

Yeah, I guess the 6 point locks into the flange somewhat... but not actually good enough to torque the nut.

what are you talking about?

 

[R_Lefebvre]

what are you talking about?

the flange has to come off, you need to leave the 6 points in there as they are held from rotating by the flange to simplify the removal replacement of the nuts.

That's what I'm talking about. Yes, the flange somewhat prevents the bolts from rotating, but not good enough. You still have to hold the nut with a wrench. At least on mine.

 

[michaelgroves]

And then later this winter, rock rails. I've got crazy idea... I like the frame mounted ones, for sure. But it seems like a hell of a torque load when you really come down on them. I was thinking of removing the chassis cross-member, and making new ones that would extend all the way to the sides and hold the rock rails. That way you don't torque the frame mounts, but support it from underneath instead. I'd also incorporate mouns points on the new cross-member for some powertrain skidplates. I'm already banging up the crossmembers a fair amount.

Seems like a good plan in my head, but I've never seen it done so... am I missing something?

I like the idea of the centre cross-member being extended for rock/tree sliders. I did something similar on my 6x6 Defender, where I designed a new crosss-member with channel-section "sleeves" that fitted over the existing chassis rails, and a central skidplate over the t-case, etc.. That way, I protected the original chassis and undercarriage from damage, but the whole thing could come off with 4 bolts. I didn't extend it out to the sides though, but it's a nice idea. (Actually, for a number of annoying reasons, the thing wasn't built correctly before we were due to leave, so it ended up being a bit of a kludge).

 

[R_Lefebvre]

That's one of the other things I was thinking about it, that it could also incorporate frame sliders, or the same functionality anyway.

Any pictures of yours, and what didn't work on it?

 

[michaelgroves]

Any pictures of yours, and what didn't work on it?

No, sorry - I didn't get around to taking pics. The guys who did the fabrication thought they knew better than the drawing I made, so the thing didn't fit properly, and nor did I have easy access to the bolts, so fitting it and taking it off was a PITA. With the skid-plate, it must be dead easy to remove, or else checking oils and inspecting the underneath starts being neglected. Ask me how I know.

As I say, I pretty much ditched it - it was a very bad implementation of a good idea.

Keep us informed about your bumper - someone's bound to tell you a better way as soon as you've done anything with it!

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Keep us informed about your bumper - someone's bound to tell you a better way as soon as you've done anything with it!

For sure!

Can you tell me what they do with the trailer hitches in the UK? You know what I'm talking about with the C-channel bolted to the bumper, and then a tow ball bolted to that? Do they do anything to brace it in any way? Anything to prevent the thing from becoming a plow? What's the width of the channel they use? I've seen lots of pics of them in magazines, but not the details. Wondering if it's just as simple as it looks.

I think I like that idea better than the reciever tube in some ways. The ability to bolt up a DB tow jaw later, for example. And it looks like a more rigid way of getting a huge drop length without it rattling around.

 

[michaels]

here's mine if you want some inspiration. sorry for the crappy pictures, but i get lazy after welding for ten hours at a time.

 

[timmy!!!!!!!]

You need more recovery points.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Michaels, I have looked at yours. You did a pretty good job with it. Mine will probably end up somewhere between yours and the Marc Olivares.

What happened with the corner trim pieces not fitting flush? What did you use for the main beam, 2x4?

I'm planning on eliminating that rub strip, and bringing the side panel right up to that body line. May even eliminate that corner moulding and just make a steel part, but we'll see.

 

[michaels]

Michaels, I have looked at yours. You did a pretty good job with it. Mine will probably end up somewhere between yours and the Marc Olivares.

What happened with the corner trim pieces not fitting flush? What did you use for the main beam, 2x4?

I'm planning on eliminating that rub strip, and bringing the side panel right up to that body line. May even eliminate that corner moulding and just make a steel part, but we'll see.

the plastic corner peice? it's just out of whack. if you mean the side peice, it's because the side tapered up and i didn't feel like welding in a tiny little triangle just for looks. i could still, but i've been working on the bumper one every 3 months, so i just got tired with dealing with it. overall it took me three days to build...over a 6 month timeline! hah.

yes the main beam to the corners is 2X4. the side panel is cut out of the 6"X1/4" thick side of a 3X6 tube, with a 2x3" support welded on that and the main beam, and the support to the frame is 2x2x1/8"wall tube.

sorry if that's confusing. i built it as i went so the thickness range from 1/8" to3/16" to 1/4" to 1/2" depending on where it is. most stuff is 3/16" though. i'd build it all of out of 3/16" but i just used whatever i had lying around.