Olympic Arms AR15 question

[OneTime]

About ten years ago or so I bought at stripped Olympic Arms AR lower. It was right before the ban in CA and complete ARs were going for crazy money. At the time I could only afford the stripped lower and even those were hard to come by. I bought the stripped lower just to have if I ever wanted an AR.

Flash forward till now and I live in AZ. Complete opposite of CA guns laws. My question is, is the Olympic Arms lower worth building up with a kit? I read that the older Olympic Arms AR's had issues. Something about forged or pressed. Since I just have the lower will I avoid the issues of the older products?

If I build it up. Can anyone suggest a kit? Im not looking to build a expensive AR. A shorty 16' light barrel with a collapsible stock

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Olympic makes good components. Buy a lower parts kit (Rockriver, DPMS, Del-Tron), a grip and a stock assembly and assembly your lower. Then choose what you want to do with the upper, flat top, handle, bull barrel?

The reality is stipped lowers are $85-125 right now (Olymics are selling for ~$120 )

Given you can buy complete new 16" carbines with decent parts in the $700 range, you might just consider selling your lower and starting over with a complet assemble unit as your not likely to save much money. Don't get me wrong, I've been building a couple of them using new/used parts and piecing them together 100%... but you do it because you want it the way you want it, you want to learn the rifle and you like the technical aspect... not because you want to do it on the cheap.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

This is a reasonable deal I came across the other day on lightly used and/or built out of military surplus from Classic Arms... If you have a local Century Arms inporter you might be able to get it cheaper...

Good luck and since you are in the Southwest you may also enjoy our new forums www.utahfirearm.com



About 3/4s down the page at www.classicarms.us
Reman M16s made civilian spec ARs...


ASSEMBLED PRIMARILY FROM COLT M-16 A1 RIFLE KITS, THESE AR-15 SPORTERS ARE PROBABLY THE BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK OF ANY AR RIFLE WE CARRY. BASICALLY CENTURY ARMS TOOK EARLY VARIATION U.S. SURPLUS M-16 RIFLES AND REPLACED THE RECEIVERS WITH A NEW SEMI-AUTO RECEIVER TO MAKE THIS CIVILIAN LEGAL AR-15. 20" BARREL, BIRD CAGE FLASH HIDDER, BAYONET LUG, 2-30 RD AR MAGS
( THE ONES WE HAVE SEEN SO FAR HAVE ALL BEEN COLT )PLUS A 20 ROUND MAG THAT I FORGOT TO INCLUDE IN THE PHOTO, A MILITARY CLEANING KIT, BLACK CANVAS SLING, AND M-16 BAYONET WITH SHEATH. THIS IS A WHOLE LOT OF STUFF ON A NICELY BUILT RIFLE, FOR NOT A WHOLE LOT OF DOUGH.
ITEM # AR15-C............................................$675. 00

 

[stu454]

My advice would be to run from a 'build' that some unknown cat slapped together in his basement.

It might be gold, it might be crap.

I'd just buy a new, complete rifle from S&W, Bushmaster or Colt.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

My advice would be to run from a 'build' that some unknown cat slapped together in his basement.

It might be gold, it might be crap.

I'd just buy a new, complete rifle from S&W, Bushmaster or Colt.

Classic Arms has a decent reputation amongst collectors, far from an 'unknown cat'.

While S&W, Bush & Colt as great setups, don't discount all the newer players to the game that have really brought the bar up. Rock River, DPMS (Panther), Yankee Hill, the list goes on.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Classic Arms is the supplier of all the of the inexpensive SKS, AK47, and many other weapons hundreds at a time. I own a Classic Arms SKS that is wonderful and is brand new surplus. In general I would trust their builds, if it helps, which is why I posted it. I think you can get a Rock River in the mid $800s which is also a good deal.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Classic Arms is the supplier of all the of the inexpensive SKS, AK47, and many other weapons hundreds at a time. I own a Classic Arms SKS that is wonderful and is brand new surplus. In general I would trust their builds, if it helps, which is why I posted it. I think you can get a Rock River in the mid $800s which is also a good deal.

You sure your not thinking of Century Arms Inc (CAI)?

 

[OneTime]

I guess I wasnt clear with my questions. I would like to do the build myself to put it together they way I want, plus to learn. I just wanted to know it was ok to start with the Olympic lower and suggestions for parts to build from. Thanks Sounds like im ok to use the lower I have as a base. Ill hit you guys up more when the time comes.

 

[GTKrockeTT]

lower are lowers, aside from finish and markings, there usually is very little difference between manufacturers...unless you're talking billet vs forged or cast. as long as the lower is in spec (which it should be), you should have no issues building an AR from scratch.

that said, there are plenty of AR snobs out there that look down at Olympic as being one of the "bottom feeder" manufacturers, but that has far more to do with the uppers and complete rifles. if this matters to you, you can always sell the lower and use the proceeds to purchase a different lower. if not, build away, and post pics once you're done. :victory:

 

[GTKrockeTT]

I guess I wasnt clear with my questions. I would like to do the build myself to put it together they way I want, plus to learn. I just wanted to know it was ok to start with the Olympic lower and suggestions for parts to build from. Thanks Sounds like im ok to use the lower I have as a base. Ill hit you guys up more when the time comes.

that's the beauty of the AR, how modular it can be. we can't really help you decide or choose parts unless you tell us what the primary purpose of the rifle will be, what your budget is...optics, stocks, grips, barrel length, forearm rails, handgrips...oh my.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

You sure your not thinking of Century Arms Inc (CAI)?

Sorry Brain Fart Classis is the seller Century is the manufacturer..

 

[OneTime]

I'm not a AR snob so the fact that the lower says Olympic won't bother me. I will want to choose high quality parts for the build. The rifle will be what we call in Law Enforcement a "trunk gun" My large metro angency in AZ doesn't let every officer carry an AR-15. We have about two for every 10 to 12 officers. A "Trunk gun" is what we throw in our trunks when things get really ugle like LA riots, North Hollywood, etc.. I was in LA for both events. Basically the one or two times in a carreer when all bets are off and the rules don't apply, (or at least the rules can be severly bent.) To be used in cases of "Id rather be tried by 12 then carried by 6" occasions. I also just finished Paramedic school and plan to attend some tactical medical courses and who goes to any tatical schools with out an AR? Plus my glock isn't enough for the Zoombies!

So I'm thinking a light 16" barrel, flat top, with some sort of red dot optics, a tactical light, collaspible stock, sling and a few 20 round mags.

 

[robert]

Most of the stuff out there is decent enough for your average user. I've bought from Bravo Company, Adco, Del-Ton, and even Model 1 Sales with no problems. While I'm a fan of LMT, RRA and Bravo Company, I've had no problems with any of the guns I've built (for myself or friends). The last one I put together used a Stag Arms M4 style upper. If you are looking to go inexpensive, Model 1 Sales sells their lightweight barreled uppers for decent prices and they use ER Shaw barrels. Chrome lined isn't necessary if you take care of your rifle but does add a measure of corrosion resistance. You're not going to shoot out the barrel on a semi auto AR15- especially with today's ammo prices.

If I were building a lightweight rifle to keep in the truck, I would set it up with a lightweight barrel of your choice (M4 profile if you prefer). I'd go with an A4 (flattop) upper with a midpriced BUIS (i.e. Midwest) and an A2 style front site (as opposed to a gas block with removable sight). I personally like the regular carbine handguards as opposed to the fatter M4 guards; railed handguards are more expensive and weigh more. I'd add a section of rail to the guard and a flashlight of your choosing. I prefer the MagPul MIAD grip myself but that's a personal preference based on my hands. I'd use an older four position stock to save more weight (although the newer M4 six position balances an M4 barrel a little more). I'd add an EOTech if you like them or an Aimpoint- used Aimpoints can be had for decent prices if you search (be sure not to get a clone). Buy good quality magazines.

There's a step by step tutorial on assembling and checking every part on an AR15 on AR15.com. Look in the "AR15" section under the "Building" heading and it's tacked. I can't hit it through the filter or I'd post a link for you. You can find good deals in their equipment exchange but for popular items you have to move quick.

When you are tapping pins in, be sure to go slow. Tapping over the receiver can help protect it if you slip. Two things I would highly recommend: Buy extra small springs and detente pins and spread an old white sheet out and sit in the middle of it while building. I can almost promise you that you will lose a pin or spring if you don't (wear safety glasses). Once you get it down you can slap them together pretty quickly but the first time is always a learning experience. Be careful tapping the roll pins into the trigger guard ears and keep them supported or you can snap them off.

Take the gun out and shoot it to make sure it works fine- enjoy it!

 

[Dave Bennett]

AR Parts Comparison Chart

The ones listed with a blue box and x, appear to be mil-spec or high quality parts...the blanks are bad parts/ non mil spec or simply no info available.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

The ones listed with a blue box and x, appear to be mil-spec or high quality parts...the blanks are bad parts/ non mil spec or simply no info available...

I'm going to go with 'no info available' on many accounts. For example, DPMS started by building components including lowers for military contracts, they later started building complete rifles (Panther Arms), they make components for quite a few other 'brands'. To date they are still a government/LEO supplier. Bushmaster is the same, building for the military/LEO in the 70's and still does currently.