Lube points on a 1996 DI

achampagne

Explorer
Can someone tell me where all the lube points are on my rig? I have only found some on the driveshats and u-joints. I would think there is alot more to put my grease gun to.

Thanks for any help.
 

sven

Adventurer
Some aftermarket tie rod ends have grease fittings. But the ujoints and driveshaft is pretty much it.
 

achampagne

Explorer
That's it eh? I would have thought there were more. I guess I covered all my bases then. Thanks!
 
Last edited:

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Well, there are door locks, hinges, bonnet latch and things like that which should be lubed. But if you mean grease fittings, then yeah, propshafts and some tie rod ends.
 

achampagne

Explorer
Well, there are door locks, hinges, bonnet latch and things like that which should be lubed. But if you mean grease fittings, then yeah, propshafts and some tie rod ends.

Yep got those first, now the hood opens without pounding on it :) and all doors open again! except the rear door which somestimes still needs the key turned to unlatch fully.
 

revor

Explorer
Yep got those first, now the hood opens without pounding on it :) and all doors open again! except the rear door which somestimes still needs the key turned to unlatch fully.

That's that lock actuator.. Time to change the springs. I've heard it's a fun job.
 

achampagne

Explorer
for the locks and hinges, I used PB blaster its what I had on hand anfter one day of being lubed everything seems to be better! For the axles and u joints I used the recommended grease from the owners manual. Easiest job so far.
 

ersatzknarf

lost, but making time
I found white lithium spray grease to work the best for the rear door latch. Also, there's a little slot under the LR logo wide enough for a small screwdriver, where you can pop that off to get at the latch handle to get the bl*st*d thing open again..., but shhh, don't tell anyone ;)
I have also crawled into the back and taken the inner stuff apart to get at it all, but that is no fun :(
(just FYI, my wife didn't like the smell of the PB Blaster the one time I used it on the doors)

Yep got those first, now the hood opens without pounding on it :) and all doors open again! except the rear door which somestimes still needs the key turned to unlatch fully.
 

AxeAngel

Expedition Leader
Just got done lubing up the window regulators last night since the market was down so badly.

Ran out of lithium grease, so I would up using vaseline.

-Sam
 

ersatzknarf

lost, but making time
Speaking of window regulators, I have had a couple of them fail and used hardware store sliding door parts (looks like a white, plastic wheel) to make repairs...
 

AxeAngel

Expedition Leader
Bought lifetime warranty ones for $99. But you are correct the little white wheels break and then the metal bends and then your window is stuck.

This always happens moments before an impending rainstorm. While on a hot date.

-Sam
 

achampagne

Explorer
I found white lithium spray grease to work the best for the rear door latch. Also, there's a little slot under the LR logo wide enough for a small screwdriver, where you can pop that off to get at the latch handle to get the bl*st*d thing open again..., but shhh, don't tell anyone ;)
I have also crawled into the back and taken the inner stuff apart to get at it all, but that is no fun :(
(just FYI, my wife didn't like the smell of the PB Blaster the one time I used it on the doors)

Yep its stinky but goes away after a day or so, but its works slicker than snot.
 

piper109

Observer
If you dont like the smell you can use a chain lube that mountain bike riders use.
One is called white lightning. Its really thin going on and then the solvent evaporates leaving lube in all the right places. Find it at a bike shop.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Bought lifetime warranty ones for $99. But you are correct the little white wheels break and then the metal bends and then your window is stuck.

This always happens moments before an impending rainstorm. While on a hot date.

-Sam
I made mine out of a flat head machine screw, a couple of fender washers, a regular washer and a nut with some Loctite applied.
 

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