New trailer for me:

[Martinjmpr]

Well, I just got my first "restoration project." It's not an "adventure trailer" like the ones a lot of you guys have, but I'm sure it's going to be altogether a different kind of "adventure" bringing this trailer back to life!

Trailer was purchased Saturday from a fellow ExPo member Geoff, who had it sitting in his yard. He is about 40 miles away from me, fortunately the frame, axles, wheels and tires are intact so I was able to tow it home without incident.

It's pretty much just a basic 4'x8' ramp gate utility trailer. I've been thinking of getting a trailer for a while, really ever since I sold the Tacoma last year. There are lots of times when having a large, flat surface to haul things on can come in handy. It will also serve as a hauler for motorcycles if we need to take them somewhere that we don't want to ride them (like a service appointment in the dead of winter.)

Besides the obvious need for a new paint job and new floorboards, it's missing a locking pin for the tailgate, and it only has one safety chain (and that's pretty flimsy, actually. It also needs lights, and I have them, but I just have to install them.

Geoff and I were trying to figure out how they got the original floorboards in. As you can see there are flanges both above and below the boards:

And since all the pieces are welded together, the only think we could figure out was that they must have put the wood in and then welded the frame together.

Any ideas on how to replace the boards? We were thinking that for all but the last 1 or 2 boards we could put them in at an angle and then straighten them out, but how do we get those last two in? Anyone else done this?

Also what kind of wood should I use? Pressure-treated deck boards? Or regular wood and then apply some stain to it?

 

[greentruck]

If that's the spare in the last photo, I think you'll want to get something a bit more modern, even if it's used...
:Mechanic:

 

[Hill Bill E.]

Yep, some trailer manufactures install the planks, then weld the last piece of angle on.

We used a 4 1/2" grinder with a cutting wheel, and cut the welds. (ours was the angle on the back of the trailer-have to look and see which is easier to remove)

Then we replaced the decking, and welded the angle back on.

As far as wood, either way will work. I prefer treated, as it takes less care, but plain wood that's stained/painted/maintained will do fine also.

Have fun!

 

[Martinjmpr]

If that's the spare in the last photo, I think you'll want to get something a bit more modern, even if it's used...
:Mechanic:

I think that's an original "run flat" design. No air pressure needed!

 

[Wyowanderer]

I'd notch a flange on each side, drop in the boards one at a time, and weld the piece back in.

Nice trailer. If you need storage when you get it finished, let me know. I'll be happy to use/ I mean, store it:sombrero:

 

[njtaco]

I'd notch a flange on each side, drop in the boards one at a time, and weld the piece back in.

Nice trailer. If you need storage when you get it finished, let me know. I'll be happy to use/ I mean, store it:sombrero:

I like that idea...you wouldn't even need to weld it, just bolt that last piece in. (If you lack a welder)

 

[jeepdreamer]

Before metal working...

Just a thought but before you go cutting out the angle I would try this...
Unbolt any where the wood is attached to the frame (if anywhere). You'll have to crawl under and look but remove whatever...screws, bolts...
Then when they are "loose" so to speak. rip them sown the middle with a circular saw (or whatever you have) and then just pull them out.
Be careful you don't cut through the metal anywhere and I would say be careful of the wiring but...ahem. You know.
Then, try one of your new replacement boards to see if it will slip in one end? They may be a different (slightly) thickness and require a little shave to fit.
Ensure both ends will fit in their respeced ends of the trailer.
You may...hopefully, be able to put enough bend in it to let it pop in place without having to cut metal...
Just an idea...

 

[elmo_4_vt]

We've replace the decks on our trailers a few times (5x10 and 6x14)... To get them out, just cut pieces out of the middle with a circular saw. To get them in, start at each side and put them in on an angle to get between the C channel, hammer on them to get them straight and into place. You'll have to cut them about 3/4" shorter that the actual space, or if you want to be trickier, just cut each end on an angle (opposite angle on opposite sides of the board) from 0" to 1/2" left to right. Hard to explain, but I'll try and draw a picture if it's unclear. Anyway, you should be able to get all but one of the boards in the middle done this way, the last one we just bent in place. Slip it in one side, put a floor jack in the middle pushing up through the bottom, get one or two people to stand on the other side while letting the jack in the middle down. You could do them all this way if you have two helpers, but it is a bit of a pain. Obviously, it helps if you use smaller lumber in either installation method (2x6s are easier than 2x10s).

Let me know if you'd like a picture..

Don

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[Martinjmpr]

I'd notch a flange on each side, drop in the boards one at a time, and weld the piece back in.

Nice trailer. If you need storage when you get it finished, let me know. I'll be happy to use/ I mean, store it:sombrero:

I like that idea...you wouldn't even need to weld it, just bolt that last piece in. (If you lack a welder)

Ha! Great Minds Think Alike! (GMTA.)

While I was in the shower this morning the same exact thought occured to me.

Actually, I think I could probably get away with notching the upper flange on one side only.

I like bolting the last piece in (I don't know how to weld, though I'd like to learn.) Actually another option would just be leaving the notch in place. The wood will be bolted into the trailer bed so the notch in the upper flange can stay there - it will make it easier to replace the wood next time.

Next purchase I think will be a grinder of some type to polish up the metal, remove surface rust, etc. Any recommendations?

 

[elmo_4_vt]

Next purchase I think will be a grinder of some type to polish up the metal, remove surface rust, etc. Any recommendations?

Portable Sandblaster... Grinder works well on the flat spots, like the top of the rails, but the sandblaster worked better on everything else for us.

Don

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