Range Rover Classic Experiance?

E

ExpoGeorgia

Observer
How's it going guys

Recently I purchased a 1st gen Toyota 4runner that needed a rebuilt motor along with some other things done to it which was more than I wanted to do. (I've always wanted a RRC between the years of 82-89 but I rarely see them in my area. If you know someone who is looking to sell a roller or a fully working RRC please PM me):sombrero:

Anyway what are some common issues to look out for with these Range Rovers? I was planing to use this as a daily driver to and from school/work and might possibly be looking to do a Cummins swap later down the line (12v from a 93 Dodge W250). Any comment about experiance with these welcome and thanks
 
David Harris

David Harris

Expedition Leader
RRC's are getting harder to find without serious rust. Your best bet to find a good one will be out West somewhere. All of them up to the last one in 1995 are pretty much the same specs, with the exception of less displacement and carbs in the early ones (1980's). Also, the early ones had a manually locking gear driven LT230 transfer case compared to a chain driven Borg Warner with automatic locking viscous center diff in the later ones. Both are fine if they are in good working order. If the vehicle starts and drives smoothly and feels tight, then the main thing to be concerned about is service history. A well maintained Rover will run pretty reliably for a long time, a poorly maintained one can be a nightmare on wheels. Of course pull the carpets up and crawl underneath to check for rust and major leaks. All Rovers leak, so you don't need to be concerned about this too much as long as the engine, tranny, axles, transfer case and swivel balls in the front axle have not been run dry. So be sure to check fluid levels and condition. Take it for a good long drive both on the highway and idling in traffic for awhile to see if it overheats. The factory gauge may not tell you much, but if you stop after an extended run and open the hood, the motor shouldn't feel abnormally hot. A good rule of thumb I have found is that if the hood itself is nearly too hot to touch when opening it, the vehicle is running too hot. Also the electric cooling fans will continue to run after shutting the engine off, if the motor is running hot. If it's a viscous transfer case, then take some tight turns in a parking lot to see if it is seized up. The tires will bark and it will feel like there is a lot of resistance in the drivetrain. It would be a great idea to have oil pressure, temperature and compression checked by you or a professional mechanic. Also check for coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant. Otherwise, just check that everything is working, etc. and for signs of water leaks into the interior. (wet carpets) Good luck!

BTW: I can tell you right now that the 12V Cummins in that Dodge truck is not going to fit into the RR. I have seen a guy on Youtube that installed a 6BT into a Defender though, and it seemed to work fine.

David
 
L

LeoLR

Guest
If your use to Toyota I do not think a Range Rover will be the right vehicle choice for you. Even more so if your looking for a vehicle thats aftermarket friendly. Plenty of off-road goodies but not many in the engine department.
 
Rovertrader

Rovertrader

Supporting Sponsor
if an angine rebuild on a first generation 4runner is more than you want to do, a major engine swap in a Rover is like Everest. Several of us have done GM swaps, a few have done 4BT, some Isuzu diesels, but as stated above, 6BT very doubtful. The MB is a preferred swap, and is being finally streamlined by a fella in Va- custom oil pans, etc. The 300 Tdi is most common, albeit expensive and NLA (meaning 'no longer available', or $$$, and sometimes unobtainium rings a bell) new. Not trying to discourage, as we have done several, but maybe just a reality call. I would stick to LC and do SBC- tried and true, good longevity, cheap to keep, and readily available. Be also warned, the Rover bug is typically terminal :)
Cheers
 
Viggen

Viggen

Just here...
LeoLR said:
If your use to Toyota I do not think a Range Rover will be the right vehicle choice for you. Even more so if your looking for a vehicle thats aftermarket friendly. Plenty of off-road goodies but not many in the engine department.
Click to expand...

What? The aftermarket is huge for Rovers. Early ones are carbed and being smog exempt, there are TONS of things you can do to the motor. Cams, heads, displacement increases through the use of different piston and rod combinations, intakes and carbs, etc... are all available. Want a serious cam? Done. Want to run 4 Webers? Easy. Theres a lot out there. When you get into the later efi versions, then your options start to dry up a little bit but there are chips and tweaks available to help with things like cams and such. Now, if you have emissions inspections, forget about it but the same would go with a Toyota product. What makes you think that the RRC is aftermarket unfriendly? You do know that the Disco and RRC share suspension and running gear, right?

As for the early ones, I have been looking and have found 2 kind of sort of for sale. They are tough to find so searching is required. If youre going to be doing motor swaps, I dont really think that the year of the truck really matters. True, earlier the easier when it comes to electronics but if youre swapping, the motor harness will be coming out anyway and early 90s trucks are pretty simple. Why would you put an anchor like a 6BT into a little truck like the RRC? I 100% doubt that it will fit anyway. Look under the hood at the size available. I highly doubt a straight 6 will fit in there. You can put them in Defenders and Series trucks due to the ease in which you can modify the interior to move the motor/ trans backwards. Good luck in doing that on an RRC.

Used 300tdis are $4500 with the diesel transmission. 4BTs and Isuzu diesels have been done but then you run the risk of overpowering the running gear (axles) and will require an upgrade. Ive read a lot about the 617 swap and talked to the person making the kit on the phone a couple of times and a few others who live and breathe MB diesels and I am not convinced that it is a good option for a truck as heavy as a Disco/ RRC is. If you want to talk about a motor with NO aftermarket support, the 617 is your choice. 120 hp/ 200 lb ft is about it in a healthy motor.

I love early RRCs. Series simplicity with Disco comfort. Like I mentioned, Ive found two in months of looking and theyre really not "for sale" but might be. If they do come up for official sale, Ill pass it on to you. Ive got plans for my current D1 to morph into something else and want an RRC to drive while Im working on the D1.
 
E

ExpoGeorgia

Observer
oryxexpeditions said:
RRC's are getting harder to find without serious rust. Your best bet to find a good one will be out West somewhere. All of them up to the last one in 1995 are pretty much the same specs, with the exception of less displacement and carbs in the early ones (1980's). Also, the early ones had a manually locking gear driven LT230 transfer case compared to a chain driven Borg Warner with automatic locking viscous center diff in the later ones. Both are fine if they are in good working order. If the vehicle starts and drives smoothly and feels tight, then the main thing to be concerned about is service history. A well maintained Rover will run pretty reliably for a long time, a poorly maintained one can be a nightmare on wheels. Of course pull the carpets up and crawl underneath to check for rust and major leaks. All Rovers leak, so you don't need to be concerned about this too much as long as the engine, tranny, axles, transfer case and swivel balls in the front axle have not been run dry. So be sure to check fluid levels and condition. Take it for a good long drive both on the highway and idling in traffic for awhile to see if it overheats. The factory gauge may not tell you much, but if you stop after an extended run and open the hood, the motor shouldn't feel abnormally hot. A good rule of thumb I have found is that if the hood itself is nearly too hot to touch when opening it, the vehicle is running too hot. Also the electric cooling fans will continue to run after shutting the engine off, if the motor is running hot. If it's a viscous transfer case, then take some tight turns in a parking lot to see if it is seized up. The tires will bark and it will feel like there is a lot of resistance in the drivetrain. It would be a great idea to have oil pressure, temperature and compression checked by you or a professional mechanic. Also check for coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant. Otherwise, just check that everything is working, etc. and for signs of water leaks into the interior. (wet carpets) Good luck!

BTW: I can tell you right now that the 12V Cummins in that Dodge truck is not going to fit into the RR. I have seen a guy on Youtube that installed a 6BT into a Defender though, and it seemed to work fine.

David
Click to expand...

Thanks for all of the great information! I also saw the video of the 12v Cummins in the Defender pickup and it was very impressive. I already have a 12v motor and I did think that the motor could fit with a little work but I know for a fact the 4bt will fit, however it won't have as much torque output. Also I like the look and simplicity of the earlier models. Like I said I'm just looking for something to daily drive/expo with but what is it with these motors cooling system's not working properly?

LeoLR said:
If your use to Toyota I do not think a Range Rover will be the right vehicle choice for you. Even more so if your looking for a vehicle thats aftermarket friendly. Plenty of off-road goodies but not many in the engine department.
Click to expand...

I drove a 1999 HSE for a year so I'm very familiar with the maladies and issues which Land Rovers have! The I wanted the 4Runner because it was in pretty good condition cosmetically and I got it for $700. Then I realized I would be needing more room and decided that I wasn't willing to spend more than its worth and sell it within the next 5 years.

Rovertrader said:
if an angine rebuild on a first generation 4runner is more than you want to do, a major engine swap in a Rover is like Everest. Several of us have done GM swaps, a few have done 4BT, some Isuzu diesels, but as stated above, 6BT very doubtful. The MB is a preferred swap, and is being finally streamlined by a fella in Va- custom oil pans, etc. The 300 Tdi is most common, albeit expensive and NLA (meaning 'no longer available', or $$$, and sometimes unobtainium rings a bell) new. Not trying to discourage, as we have done several, but maybe just a reality call. I would stick to LC and do SBC- tried and true, good longevity, cheap to keep, and readily available. Be also warned, the Rover bug is typically terminal :)
Cheers
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information, I'm sure the 4bt could work well. Plus there are soo many of them so parts are readily avalible. As I said later down the line after school I'd like to do the swap for mpg & power gains compared to the V8. And I know about the Rover bug, an old neighbor of mine who relocated to another state had 4 in his driveway and a garage full of parts he'd sell :drool:


This is the type of look I'd like to go for, something clean and classic!
 

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L

LeoLR

Guest
Viggen said:
What? The aftermarket is huge for Rovers. Early ones are carbed and being smog exempt, there are TONS of things you can do to the motor. Cams, heads, displacement increases through the use of different piston and rod combinations, intakes and carbs, etc... are all available. Want a serious cam? Done. Want to run 4 Webers? Easy. Theres a lot out there. When you get into the later efi versions, then your options start to dry up a little bit but there are chips and tweaks available to help with things like cams and such. Now, if you have emissions inspections, forget about it but the same would go with a Toyota product. What makes you think that the RRC is aftermarket unfriendly? You do know that the Disco and RRC share suspension and running gear, right?

As for the early ones, I have been looking and have found 2 kind of sort of for sale. They are tough to find so searching is required. If youre going to be doing motor swaps, I dont really think that the year of the truck really matters. True, earlier the easier when it comes to electronics but if youre swapping, the motor harness will be coming out anyway and early 90s trucks are pretty simple. Why would you put an anchor like a 6BT into a little truck like the RRC? I 100% doubt that it will fit anyway. Look under the hood at the size available. I highly doubt a straight 6 will fit in there. You can put them in Defenders and Series trucks due to the ease in which you can modify the interior to move the motor/ trans backwards. Good luck in doing that on an RRC.

Used 300tdis are $4500 with the diesel transmission. 4BTs and Isuzu diesels have been done but then you run the risk of overpowering the running gear (axles) and will require an upgrade. Ive read a lot about the 617 swap and talked to the person making the kit on the phone a couple of times and a few others who live and breathe MB diesels and I am not convinced that it is a good option for a truck as heavy as a Disco/ RRC is. If you want to talk about a motor with NO aftermarket support, the 617 is your choice. 120 hp/ 200 lb ft is about it in a healthy motor.

I love early RRCs. Series simplicity with Disco comfort. Like I mentioned, Ive found two in months of looking and theyre really not "for sale" but might be. If they do come up for official sale, Ill pass it on to you. Ive got plans for my current D1 to morph into something else and want an RRC to drive while Im working on the D1.
Click to expand...



Yes the 3.5 has a ton of aftermarket support. Not the 3.9 or 4.2 with injection.
 
KMW

KMW

New member
Viggen said:
You do realize that there is really no difference, right?
Click to expand...

Exactly. It's like the guys selling $300 "special cams for larger Rover V8" that are really $150 Isky Buick 215/300 cams -- there are more parts out there than you think and they aren't all high dollar special for Rover items. Keep in mind back in the home market the Rover V8 was for many years the V8 of choice for racing, tuning, sports cars - MG, Morgan, Triumph, TVR, etc. TVR did some wicked things with them all the way out to 5.0. Not that I think it's the best choice for an off road rig, but if someone wants a hot 3.9/4.2 look at what the MGB V8 and TR8 crowd does.

With the cooling -- the issue isn't that the cooling system doesn't work properly, sometimes the opposite. In my experience the cooling in a Rover has plenty of reserve capacity, and that's what stings folks. They work great until there's more than one problem, and when it goes, it goes all the way and the engine overheats. Aluminum block engines don't take kindly to that. I've lived with Rovers for over 10 years and I let myself get caught with this once. I let some hoses get old, didn't pay attention to some warning signs, lost a hose and got a little too hot. I got lucky, but a lot of times "a little too hot" on these engines means the head gaskets are gone.
 
L

LeoLR

Guest
Its the EFI and electronics that makes the difference. The 3.5 is the Chevy 350 of the British car world. Even Edelbrock has parts for the 3.5


If you have the money and want to I guess you can butcher the later model Rovers. But their isnt many options without major surgury. And the 3.9/4.2 are good engines already.
 
REDROVER

REDROVER

Explorer
get 1989 model and u will be very happy you did,

its the only year with 3.9 and non abs but any of them is good 87 88 89 real good trucks.

look in los angeles craigs list if u want absolutely rust free truck
 
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