Painting Diamond plate
- Thread starter jeeper92
- Start date
Scott Brady
Founder
Why do people use diamond plate at all on a vertical surface?
Seriously, I do not understand the application.
Seriously, I do not understand the application.
jsmarine
Adventurer
That is kind of an odd comment, diamond plate is just a very common material that most companies use to make truck bed boxes.
Last edited:
wesel123
Explorer
How about this one??? This is what I plan on using.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_179566-7635...t=179566&pl=1¤tURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=179566
http://www.lowes.com/pd_179566-7635...t=179566&pl=1¤tURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=179566
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
Given that diamond plate's reason for existence is to create a tractive surface to walk on (it has no structural application), I echo Mr. Brady's comment. Why?
I have seen the "5 Bar" version of it used on the sides of large vehicles, primarily down under, because it does not show 'desert pin-striping'. How many people get desert pin-striping on their tool boxes and care that it shows it?
As far as the OP's question, I do not recall the product name but Sherwin-Williams sells a self-etching primer for aluminum that has been recommended to me by a kit plane builder.
Doc McCoy
Untitled Offroad
I'm kinda confused. It's pretty easy to scratch up a tool box. Considering the actual purpose of it would be to hold ... tools. Most people would rather have the odd scratch and small dent hidden by the diamond plate. Plus it is a lot nicer to walk on in the winter.
As for why would you use it on vertical surfaces ... I think that it is pretty rare to see a high "tractive" surface on the lid of a tool box and then have them use a completely different material for the box structure. It seems like it would be a lot easier to simply make the whole box out of the same material.
Vermejo
Adventurer
For the most durable results, I’d recommend sandblasting and powder coating—of course this is not cost effective for most. If you decide to paint, sandblasting will provide superior surface prep and paint adhesion over etching products. For painting bumpers, sliders, skids, etc., I’ve used everything from high quality DuPont auto paints to rattle can RustOleum. I’ve settled on Rust-Oleum Professional High Performance Protective Enamel in flat black; the durability, finish and color retention were the best PERIOD. It’s sold by the quart or gallon (never buy black again size) at most hardware stores. If you choose to prime, Rust-Oleum makes a like professional primer, have it tinted black or dark grey so that scratches aren’t overly visible. If you paint the floor of the interior, the contents will wear the paint leaving black powder residue on your belongings. You could always line the floor interior with cheese cloth or rubber matting.
As for using diamond plate on vertical surfaces: it’s all about aesthetics. It hides fabrication imperfections and dents better than standard sheet. I used diamond plate when covering my fenders & rocker panels for a few reasons. 1) I used a step rolling method to bend the radiuses and the break lines are fall less visible. 2) Diamond deflects small objects that strike its surface a bit better than standard sheet given the dual surface levels. 3) As mentioned by ntqsd, it handles scrub brush well. 4) It looks good.
As for using diamond plate on vertical surfaces: it’s all about aesthetics. It hides fabrication imperfections and dents better than standard sheet. I used diamond plate when covering my fenders & rocker panels for a few reasons. 1) I used a step rolling method to bend the radiuses and the break lines are fall less visible. 2) Diamond deflects small objects that strike its surface a bit better than standard sheet given the dual surface levels. 3) As mentioned by ntqsd, it handles scrub brush well. 4) It looks good.
Lars70
Observer
Sandblasting is good. Epoxy electrostatic powder's grip on aluminum is only so-so though, unless you do something else in between the sandblast and the powder. Aluminum needs a conversion coating of some sort to get a good paint bond. Self-etching primer is one way to accomplish that, but it can be done other ways, such as acid etching followed by a process such as alodine. Having learned that stuff the hard way, building stuff for marine environments. Then revisiting it due to being that airplane homebuilder mentioned by NTSQD 
The Sherwin Williams GBP988 is an ok self-etching primer, but you need to get something over it soon afterward, because it's porous and not particularly tough.
Years ago I came to hate paint in spray cans, and the similar stuff sold as liquid paint- eg, Rustoleum. The stuff took forever to dry, and when it finally did get hard it was brittle. Then I revisited Rustoleum's line because I learned that other airplane homebuilders were using spray cans of the stuff to paint their airplane interiors. I figured it would be worthless, based on my previous experience. Boy, was I wrong. I've since gone through a few cans of their hammered finish silver paint, sprayed over the aforementioned Sherwin Williams product onto aluminum. I'm amazed at how tough the stuff is. Takes a bit longer to cure than mixed commercial paint (Imron for example) but considering the ease of use, I can wait.
As for aluminum diamond plate, I don't like it mostly because the stuff I've encountered usually has sharp edges. And I'm the sort of klutz that will brush it and scrape the heck out of myself in the process.
The Sherwin Williams GBP988 is an ok self-etching primer, but you need to get something over it soon afterward, because it's porous and not particularly tough.Years ago I came to hate paint in spray cans, and the similar stuff sold as liquid paint- eg, Rustoleum. The stuff took forever to dry, and when it finally did get hard it was brittle. Then I revisited Rustoleum's line because I learned that other airplane homebuilders were using spray cans of the stuff to paint their airplane interiors. I figured it would be worthless, based on my previous experience. Boy, was I wrong. I've since gone through a few cans of their hammered finish silver paint, sprayed over the aforementioned Sherwin Williams product onto aluminum. I'm amazed at how tough the stuff is. Takes a bit longer to cure than mixed commercial paint (Imron for example) but considering the ease of use, I can wait.
As for aluminum diamond plate, I don't like it mostly because the stuff I've encountered usually has sharp edges. And I'm the sort of klutz that will brush it and scrape the heck out of myself in the process.