OBI Dweller Review and Discussion

On my D13, I certainly feel the buffet from cars and trucks passing me when I'm on the interstate but it does not induce a harmonic sway. As you can see, I'm carrying considerable additional forward weight...I have approximately 100 lbs. of bikes and bike carrier and another 50-60 lbs. of water and jerry cans (half full). All of this additional weight is centered over the gear box.

Before diving into sway control, I would try to determine whether the sway can be eliminated by increasing tongue weight (within reason).

As an experiment, my suggestion is to get three of four 50 lbs. bags of sand from the big box store and try adding with them as ballast in the forward gear box. If you find that additional tongue weight eliminates the sway, you could then go to the Cat Scale and confirm whether the increased tongue weight is acceptable.

To be clear, I'm not suggesting you plan to drag a bunch of sand around for the long haul. This may help root cause the problem and give a starting point for a gear loading strategy.

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I have a 1up bike rack. What did you use to mount it to the frame and raise it up like you did?
 

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
Yeah, my favorite upgrade from ROA ... the beefy stabilizers :


and popped the top down .. for lower profile/less noise...

unhitched...

it was a wild night!

:)
That must have cost $1,800 or so. Liklely voided any warranty from Ark. Looks like you lost some ground clearance. I assume you still put the anderson blocks under the tires after you level trailer. I have a level mate pro so I know exactly how many inches I need to raise one side and the tongue. Takes like one minute to drive on blocks.
 

WillySwan

Well-known member
I have a 1up bike rack. What did you use to mount it to the frame and raise it up like you did?

Look at my post #95 and #96 in this thread. I welded a 2-inch hitch mount vertically on the tongue cross member then fabricated a riser for mounting the 1-up. I’ve been hauling bikes on this tongue mounted rack for 3+ years and 15k+ miles. It has worked out great.

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Josh00333

Member
That must have cost $1,800 or so. Liklely voided any warranty from Ark. Looks like you lost some ground clearance. I assume you still put the anderson blocks under the tires after you level trailer. I have a level mate pro so I know exactly how many inches I need to raise one side and the tongue. Takes like one minute to drive on blocks.

They are $300 a pair from Google. Not bad at all. They go in the same spot as the factory jacks, can't see how they would reduce clearance?

The whole point of these is skipping the block leveling game. As well as being able to jack the rig for a tire change with out a bottle jack.

Warranty? from OBI?! LOL
 

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
They are $300 a pair from Google. Not bad at all. They go in the same spot as the factory jacks, can't see how they would reduce clearance?

The whole point of these is skipping the block leveling game. As well as being able to jack the rig for a tire change with out a bottle jack.

Warranty? from OBI?! LOL
My bad i thought they were 300 a piece. I meant warranty from Ark by drilling out holes but I doubt that will be an issue. They just looked like they hang down further then stock cheapos. Do you put blocks under tires after leveling with jacks?
 

Josh00333

Member
My bad i thought they were 300 a piece. I meant warranty from Ark by drilling out holes but I doubt that will be an issue. They just looked like they hang down further then stock cheapos. Do you put blocks under tires after leveling with jacks?

Oh oh got ya, ya your probably right drilling a hole in there unit might can a warranty.

For blocks, no, if you are leveling the odds are 99.9999999% you are NOT going to lift a tire. You're leveling 1-4" a side at most. Takes a bit to get one these tires off the ground. 99% of the time you would block your tire with caulks then level with the jacks.

The whole tire off the ground is only useful if you get a flat.
 

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
Oh oh got ya, ya your probably right drilling a hole in there unit might can a warranty.

For blocks, no, if you are leveling the odds are 99.9999999% you are NOT going to lift a tire. You're leveling 1-4" a side at most. Takes a bit to get one these tires off the ground. 99% of the time you would block your tire with caulks then level with the jacks.

The whole tire off the ground is only useful if you get a flat.
Good point but my chassis creaks when I raise it and I feel better to put pressure on tire and suspension to take that torque off of the twisting chassis. Which is why I just roll on blocks first. Probably over thinking it.
 

WillySwan

Well-known member
... I feel better to put pressure on tire and suspension to take that torque off of the twisting chassis. Which is why I just roll on blocks first. Probably over thinking it.

You're not overthinking it. The Dwellers have a ridiculously stout frame, however it is possible even with the stock steady jacks to twist the frame on my D13 enough that the ensuite door binds a tiny bit.
 

apoc2662

New member
I just picked up a 2023 D13 a few weeks ago and have been working my way through the systems, getting more familiar. A huge thank you to everyone that has posted so far. I feel like I already know a ton about this trailer before I even opened it up for the first time.

I actually just did the lithium swap. I found 3 group 31 170ah batteries on Amazon for a pretty good price. So it was pretty much an easy swap to do. As I was playing with the inverter/charger settings, I figured I'd test the 120 outlets. It looks like I have 2 of them (1 by the TV and the other in the front by the storage area). Both of those are reading "open ground" when I put an outlet tester on them. I'm about to pull the outlets, check the fuse connections, look at the Renogy wires in and out of the inverter...maybe the main ground line is disconnected...once I get out of work today. Anyone else encounter this and have an obvious place to start looking? Appreciate any insight!
 

apoc2662

New member
Think I found the issue. The yellow/green stripe wire was not properly seated at the ground bus in the breaker panel. I probably should have just started there, but I checked each outlet, checked where the main ground was secured to the underside of the trailer before I just tried to reseat the wire. Outlets are testing ok now! IMG_8817.jpeg
 

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