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I'm sure an A442 or A343 would be fairly common and reliable for an automatic but it sure seems like you'd be more likely to find an H55 and someone who could fix one in just about every corner of the world.

It's not just the soft wire feed issue, which doing TIG or using a spool gun would solve. Most home machines can only do DC. The reason we use AC for aluminum is by constantly reversing polarity you clean off and prevent the oxidation reforming, which contaminates the weld and makes puddle...

If you've never welded before it's a lot easier to learn with steel. Even if you're comfortable in basic welding doing aluminum is still a learning curve. There's a lot more you have to be aware of with getting the right alloy filler to base material and machine settings. Steel is a lot more...

Why not try to get one of the Aussie ones? But none-the-less there's domestic ones that take inspiration from military cargo covers. https://www.truckhugger.com/soft-shell-fb.php

Forgot to mention, if someone or you make what's called a ditch light bracket for the F150 that can be a good place to mount an antenna. These brackets usually sit at the base of the windshield in or on above the cowl so they don't move with the hood and stay fixed. Which is what I did...

One thing to watch about those mounts between the fender and hood is clearance and movement. One can ruin the paint on the edge of the hood if you're not careful. It's also possible to pinch RG58 diameter coax so you'll see sometimes the bases will have a few inches to maybe a foot of the...

Mimicking an old J-series is appropriate and I think very cool looking.

Like I say, you'd have to be really sure of yourself and not give much weight to what anyone else thought. You would certainly not fade into the woodwork driving one.

I run LT265/75R16 Falken Wildpeak A/T3W, the load range E versions. I have them mounted on 3rd gen 4Runner 16x7 wheels. I run about 2" of lift in front (Fox 2.5 IFP extended travel shocks with 650 lb/in 14" tall King coils) and 3" of lift in back when mostly unladen (the camper is always...

You know in your heart of hearts that's the epitome of style and self assuredness.

Simply not true.

It's not a cell network. It appears to use unlicensed ISM bands, apparently sub-1Ghz (e.g. 287-351, 359-439, 431-527, 718-878, 861-1054 MHz) and 2.4GHz to create an ad hoc mesh network of nodes. It's essentially a private wireless network where each of the little gadgets is a device. To...

Some people notice OME leaf packs squeak but my older version CS047R don't make any obvious noise other that I use polyurethane bushings that do get squeaky when dry. That's eventually true of my front control arms (Camburg) and every poly suspension bushing I've ever had so I've long since...

Seems like the root issue is the mechanic who assembled the coil overs failed to use a locking or jamb nut, lock washer and/or Loctite? Normally on 5100s (or similar shocks) you'll see at least a nyloc nut at that position. The shocks appear to be standard Bilstein so as long as the shafts...

These crimpers (PWRcrimp, TRIcrimp, Compass Marine, etc.) I believe are sourced through CMI (https://cmi-mkt.com), which is the intermediary in Taiwan representing various factories in Taiwan and China. So, sure, it's possible and maybe probable they are not exactly identical but it appears to...

As near as I can tell the two frames are identical. If there's a downside it's that the dies for them are not cheap from either place, although Powerwerx for $60 gives you several instead of $30 per pair from Rod. One thing I have noticed is the lower jaw geometry on these tools seem different...

Nope, the TRIcrimp isn't a production tool but it's sufficiently high quality. Seems equal to an Ideal frame I have and maybe even a little smoother. It's the same frame that Rod Collins sells. His just has blue handles instead of red. The dies are well made, too...

I've been happy with the TRIcrimp set Powerwerx sells. https://powerwerx.com/tricrimp-powerpole-connector-crimping-tool

The main problem I have with SAE is they're molded so all you can do is splice them to wires. A crimped terminal inserted into a housing is fewer connections and generally cleaner. From a strictly low current performance standpoint an SAE isn't any really better or worse than a PowerPole -...

The first ones you link are nothing more than SAE connectors. These are not a great connector.