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Yes. It is in the spindle and I still cant overcome it. The end of the stud appeared to have a allen head in it so I tried putting one in there and hand turning with a wrench but nope.....the inside of the stud that I thought was an allen head just stripped.

Here is the ba***rd I'm dealing with.

Send some sorcery please.

Not on my Montero but I figured I'd tap into the brains here and see what happens. I am installing new MOOG ball joints on a Volvo and they are the type that do not take a castle nut. The nuts that came with them have what look like messed up threads on them but they both had it and they are...

It solved the problem temporarily.....I have a more recent post about this ( I should have added to this one vs. starting a new thread), and this most recent problem was solved simply by sucking out the old brake fluid in the reservoir and refilling it. So I’m thinking two things matter here, #1...

When it is happening, how does the sound change if you weave back and forth?

Please post a pic with trim on and phone in mount. Thanks!

I’ve never been a believer in those types of products......

Updating this, I ordered a new reservoir cap seal (which Mitsubishi calls a « diaphram ». I was surprised to see that mine has been messed up for a long time. The new one is on the left, the old one on the right. The old one has been that way for as long as I can remember, so it was frequently...

Don’t give up on it. My guess is that it sounds like you are leaking some unmetered air into the engine post-MAF. When you unplug the MAF the engine falls back to less precise air quantity estimates based only on your TPS so any air leaks would be masked. Can you drive it with the MAF unplugged...

Take it off, take it apart, clean it, put new seals in it.... but unless it was damaged somehow I don’t see that as being a component that would ever need replacement.

You should consult the FSM for the correct procedure.

I’d say the starter solenoid is sticking but not for 8 years......but it is getting worse so who knows. I’d start by cleaning all the starter electrical connections.

That’s the weird part, I just did a full flush in November. There were a lot of floaters in there too last night, I think the cap rubber seal thing might be degrading. It has been submerged in brake fluid for 20 years......

Wife called from parking lot.....started truck, brake light stuck on. She checked fluid level in reservoir and it was good. E-brake was off. Brakes felt good so she drove home. I pull the filter screen from reservoir and bounce the float with needle nose pliers, light goes on and off on cue...

Any codes?

Safety system stuff....brakes....I’m getting that stuff through aftermarket dealer, auto parts store, or Mitsubishi. Not worth the headache or risk.

Does the HBB run all the time or only when the brake pedal is depressed?

Are you doing this with the key on?

As you are learning right now, the bleeder screws are only cracked open while pressure is being applied to the brake pedal. As the pedal goes down, near bottom, the bleeder must be closed (not super tight, just snug it a bit) before the pedal is released. Repeat..............in your case...