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I've spent an inordinate amount of time in recent months wading through the murky waters of torsion free subframe design (specifically for an FG). One thing that keeps gnawing at me is the fact that there are a few examples on here of boxes that are rigidly mounted with u-bolts, yet have...

This is for a Fuso build, so it'll be 3 spring mounts on each side, with the rear of the frame rigidly bolted to the subframe. No U-bolts, as a result. Is adhesive still viable?

Another question -- does the cushion material typically get fastened to the subframe or to the chassis? Or does it matter? And would an adhesive like Sikaflex 252 or equivalent be up to the job instead of fasteners?

What material is considered the best for the layer of cushion between chassis rails and subframe? I've seen HDPE mentioned, and also high density polyurethane, which I'm pretty sure isn't the same thing. If so, any good reasons to pick one over the other? And is there anything else one should...

I appreciate that javajoe, but...it's a bit of a haul from LA. Still, good to have options if all else fails... Allan -- yeah, I think I'm just going to have to start talking to different off-road fabricators to find someone who seems up to it. It would be nice to find someone who's...

Can anyone recommend a shop in Southern California (preferably the LA area) that has experience fabricating the sort of spring-mounted subframe that's commonly employed on Fuso builds? If not, perhaps anywhere in the southwest?

I'm considering replacing the stock fuel tank on my '04 FG with a rectangular one. The stock tank is about 16" in diameter, and it looks like roughly 18 x 18 is the closest rectangular tank that's readily available without doing something totally custom. I'd prefer to not have a new tank...

2004

Trust me -- there are no silly questions where me and vehicles are concerned. I haven't bled the brakes since buying the truck a couple of months ago, but the brakes feel pretty amazing, so I doubt they need it.

The motor inside the controller audibly fires up as soon as I connect it. This is with the truck shut down, and no key in the ignition. I have the service manual, which I assume contains a circuit diagram for this, but I haven't delved that deep into it yet. In reading about faulty ABS...

I discovered that the previous owner had the ABS controller unplugged, and maybe now I know why...when it's plugged in, it runs constantly, even with no key in the ignition. Pulling fuse FH4 (in the high current fuse box, labeled "ABS Valve") turns it off at least. Does anyone have any insight...

I guess I'm missing a bracket. I found a couple of photos online that show the separator mounted just to the right of the tank, but there's nothing there on my truck that matches the holes on the separator. So I ended up mounting it to the brace that holds the air filter enclosure in place...

Okay, one last question before I finally put this matter to rest -- can someone post a photo or at least describe how/where the separator assembly is supposed to mount to the chassis? Mine was actually just loosely resting against the frame when I bought the truck, and I can't find any existing...

Aha. So I guess nothing's wrong after all. I had assumed there should only be water in that canister, so when I saw only diesel in there, I figured the filter mustn't be doing its job. So really, the filter element has nothing at all to do with separating fuel and water, and instead, it's really...

Really? That's excellent news if so, but then, how do you know when it's time to open the drain plug to let any water out? Will it be visibly clear that there's an abundance of water settled on the bottom of the tank? Sorry if I'm being a bonehead and overthinking this. It's my first diesel...

So there should be no diesel in the clear bowl itself, right? When the engine is shut off, what's to stop any fuel that hasn't reached the pump yet from draining back into the canister then? Is there a one way valve on the line going from the separator to the fuel pump so that can't happen? I...

Been out of town for a couple of weeks, so just got around to disassembling my water separator today to further investigate the filter element. A bit of a bear to get apart, but sticking the assembly in a vise while turning the threaded ring nut with a strap wrench eventually did the trick...

Yeah, the more research I do on this, the more confused I get. Think I'll just order the OEM replacement filter element, stick with the stock assembly, and see if that doesn't solve the problem.

No, there aren't any electrical connections on my OEM separator -- it looks like a pretty simple in-line mechanism. What's up with the dual filter assembly above (second link)? Is that just to provide an additional level of filtration, or are there some vehicles that require that for some...

Thanks for the helpful info. If you have a link to a specific separator that would do the job, I'd really appreciate it. Any opinions either way about either of these two options: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIESEL-FUEL-FILTER-ASSEMBLY-/161465645191?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10...