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If I was going solo, I'd just use a hi top aluminum cap and a bed platform. Dinette won't happen. Even if I had all the $$ in the world and was buying a factory built unit, any dinette would get ripped out and replaced with a convertible sofa sort of setup. The idea here is for the inside of...

I've got sciatica that keeps my left leg pretty useless while seated. I wish I could, but I can no longer manually row my gears.

The power system / box is done. For now that is. I do want to elaborate the art as it were but that will be down the road. The power box is done. Sadly not all of the holes went exactly where I wanted, but it works, and doesn't look "too" bad... So the remainder of the build went pretty much...

Quick update on my progress. The harness for the output side is complete. Nicely wrapped and tested. Both 12V ports, all 4 USB ports, and since they come with the USB ports, both voltometers work. So for the time being, it will be... #1. Cheap A-- generator. #2. B&D 25 amp auto battery...

I'm a funny kind of guy. My dream truck doesn't exist, but IF I could piece it together, it would be... Like new 1999 to 2004 F350 Lariat Dually. Supercab with an 8' bed. Not a fan of the newer front clips. Built Cummins 6BT P Pump engine. Allison 6 speed tranny. My thought process? The Ford...

That's probably not a horrible idea either. The big concern is going someplace, let's say into hunters camp in Sam Houston National forest, and needing to run into town, or wanting to explore the local towns, I don't really want to leave camp set up due to theft concerns, and I'd rather not...

So my philosophy is the old Hot Rodders axiom of rung what ya brung. Meaning to make the absolute most of what you already have. What I have is a 2004 F150 Supercab XLT 5.4L 4x4 payload package and towing package equipped. 6.5 foot bed. The truck has been upgraded with the following. #1. Go...

I was going to suggest Cedar as well as it is widely used in marine installations with no issues. 3/16" shiplap is readily available, at least near me it is, at pretty decent prices, it smells great, and has the added benefit of repelling insects and other pests. Cedar is incredibly light as...

Just FWIW, here are the foamie builds I am talking about. The truck cap foamie on the Tacoma. http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=64361&sid=4b6e77bf0c786a1651fe97daf5c5837d The F150 bed replacement foamie, still a heavier wooden frame and wooden mechanicals such as the roof lifts etc...

It's been quite a long time since the alternator upgrade. I believe it was a 250 amp from DB Electrical. Is that sufficient amperage to feed the 40 amp model?

Noted along with the previous Renogy model. Just FWIW, does it require 25 or 40a input or is that max? I do have a high output alternator, I believe 150 amp, as the truck has a winch, and had previously had some obnoxious power drawing halogen off road lights that drew WAY more power than was...

Remember to subtract the weight of the all steel truck bed, tailgate etc... being removed.

I totally agree, and before wrench gets put to bolt, or saw gets put to foam, calculations will be made, tallies will be done. It's part of the design process. And yes, I might just have to move to a heavier duty chassis. It just isn't my first choice.

Quite the reason I am looking to delete the steel truck bed, add aluminum frame / foam core fiberglass camper box. I know of 2 other builds similar to what I am looking at doing. The camper build / flatbed frame dry comes in at 250lbs over the stock truck. There is a guy on TNTTT.com that built...

Just from MY perspective mind you, I would still go with a flatbed frame, of sorts anyway... When you, or whomever is doing the design work, designs the camper itself, you are going to need a good solid support, and attachment to the truck chassis. At least that's my plan. The rest of the box...

The issue for me, and the reason for the laptop is that I can work remotely, so long as I am within reasonable shot of a 4G signal and enough juice to keep the laptop and phone going, I am golden paycheck wise. However my company provided laptop that is required for network access, they are NOT...

So in another thread I am talking about framing for a flatbed conversion / hard side camper design for an F150. I am considering putting the battery bank on the opposite side of the truck from the fuel tank between the front of the bed and the wheel arch. That should give me more than enough...

Thanks for this thread. This is the exterior finish type I am looking for when I do my camper build. Any idea how expensive something like that would be for say a hard sided flatbed truck camper? Let's say 12.5' long, 7' tall and 6' wide? Not going to bother with the roof....

I've got a half ton 4x4 F150 and don't want to massively overtax it. I am considering ripping the truck bed off, and doing a flatbed / box camper conversion to it using aluminum framing. There are lots of aluminum flatbeds around I see that I can copy designs from, but not sure about the camper...

Simply put, what simple said. Lay it out and make your holes avoiding any structural members. What constitutes structural is going to be dependent upon your flooring type as well. But for kicks and grins lets say your floor of 3/8" aluminum plate. No problem, just make sure you avoid the...