This is nonsense.
I recently imported a Canadian-market truck with a US-made camper titled in one state, purchased from another state, and got it all squared away in 2 easy and short DMV visits plus a trip to my local CARB referee. The 2nd visit was only needed because I needed to see the smog...
The greatest moment I ever had with my previous rig (Chevy Astro based GTRV pop-top) was when a bunch of early morning mountain bikers got to the summit we'd camped on, just as I was putting the coffee on. One of them said something to the effect of "******* me, they got a freakin' minivan up here!".
I make ice fairly reliably in the little freezer cubby of my Dometic fridge using the factory ice trays. (I have a 2nd one from my old Truckfridge - same part.) The factory trays are pretty good for this because they're (a) small and (b) VERY thermally conductive, so it doesn't take much to get...
I also question whether your battery bank is actually healthy. Jonyjoe101's math assumes you're pulling full amperage on all four motors continuously. I would have guessed that unloading a camper would involve a main burst while you're dropping the legs from fully retracted, followed by a lot...
It sounds like OP is talking about the batteries being drained by unloading the camper in the field - not a passive draw.
I agree that it sounds like the solution is to sever the connection between jacks and batteries, and power the jacks via another method. Happijac does not post the power...
What leaks are you expecting?
I've had a very rare boil-over with pasta, but even that didn't result in a significant amount of liquid anywhere in/around my camp-stoves. I'm trying to understand what failure mode you're trying to prevent.
Thanks for sharing your views, y'all. (And I'm glad that my guess was correct - that it was mostly a matter of having a lot of money tied up in a thing, and not something more existential or specific to the truck.)
Hope to catch you on the road some day.
Not exactly a flashlight, but small enough to double as a flashlight and we use them as such:
These are USB rechargeable, so with a "Y" cable I can keep two of these charged up in the glovebox of the truck at all times. Magnetic base gets used a lot, and I will also hang them from the awning...
Folks have mentioned that COVID/Vanlife pricing was in effect for a while, (and that was a factor that may be ending), but before this conversation goes too far down the "general RV pricing" road, I want to say that nobody yet has mentioned that 4x4 conversions are just increasingly expensive...
I've gone tankless on my last two OBA setups. I have mine setup for automatic inflation shut-off, which is really nice because I can set the pressure I want and just walk away until the compressor shuts off. (Usually I use that time to do a walk-around inspection, etc.)
I started by basically...
Mike, I did the galley cabinet on my Astro van in 1/2" birch ply with pocket holes and glue. The cabinet was fairly stiff (and bolted to the van in two places), but not so stiff that I ever saw any issues in the ~7 years that I had that cabinet installed. This included a fair amount of trails...
Before you go super deep into trying to find all the super-short gearsets, you may want to run the numbers with the transmission ratios. It is my recollection (though I don't have a chart in front of me), that with the 10-speed transmission, that super-short 1st gear makes for a crawl ratio...
Woah, lots of stuff to address there:
1) That quoted CFM is almost certainly at 0psi - which is the normal way to quote max volume. Metcalf's example table above shows how more high-end compressors give their CFM ratings, and how much they fall off once pressure comes into play. In fact, I...
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