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I like the kickstand lid lifter-slash-holder - it's nice to be able to set a hot lid down without needing a trivet. Just buy that part!

I don't know what those TO-220 components are, or what you're driving with them, but they look awfully close together. Without a heat sink, those often need a little room to breathe, if you're using them anywhere in their nominal range.

Did something very similar with a propane burner a few years back.

This does seem like it would streamline operations somewhat. Publish (or at least provide to customers upon deposit) a spec sheet that says "For Camper A, you need dimensions X by Y, with a maximum of Z from the deck to the roof of the truck cab" and let them source the tray wherever makes sense...

Eh, the tradeoff of no trailer parking was the 330sqft shop already built in the backyard, complete with power, etc.

That's cool. I really wish I had trailer parking on my property...

Mike, I like that mirror setup. Been looking for something like that for our van. Got a link?

I use the self-sticking hook-and-loop type cable-tie stuff in basically the same way that SDDiver5 uses zip ties. The long ones (~12" or so) make it easy to get a tight wrap over both parts of a rolled-ratchet strap set.

Quick ASCII picture: HOUSE_BATTERY===1FT_WIRE=====SHORT_TO_GROUND========8FT_WIRE========STARTER_BATTERY_AND_ALTERNATOR In this scenario, you have a current source (or two) at each end of the run. If you pinch the wire and have a short somewhere in the middle, you have to worry about ALL the...

Cannot overstate this enough. Think about what happens if you pinch & short your wires at any point along the run - will you have a fuse between a current source and that pinch? I use big resettable breakers at both ends of my run.

2AWG would be WAY overkill for the Panel->Controller connection. Your 160W panel will push nominally 10A or less. The ampacity for 10AWG wire is 30-40A, depending on conductor type and construction. For that short of a run, you could theoretically do 14 or 16 AWG (but the 10 AWG you have is...

TRED Pros, Shovel in quickfists with cable lock.

You really should take a look at the roll-on bedliner you can get at most auto parts stores. It is a bit messy to apply, and goopy to work with, but you do get a very nice hard finish. I used a foam brush to do the inside of my first battery/tool box where I thought I might be storing fluids...

I built a rack on the drivers-side rear quarter window and just mount the shovel right above my Treds and use the same cable lock through the Tred and the loop handle of the shovel. As with all things, nothing will stop a determined thief, but it's enough to discourage casual pilferage...

Cheap is, but low-frills can often give great bang for the buck. I got six solid years out of my Edgestar before I sold it to another user who was still happy with it the last time I checked in. There's literally a whole thread with hundreds of pages of people who've scored great deals on...

To each, one's own, I suppose. My Vancouver-built 1995 LuLu Island Camper (predecessor to GTRV) was largely built with square-drive fasteners, and I have to say that when I bought it in 2010 and stripped it down for transplant onto my newer van, I was really glad for that. With 15 years of...

Engel and Edgestar both have a S&D storefront.

TruckFridge and Edgestar I had one of the early 43qt Edgestars and it was great. Sold it when I built a custom cabinet into my van, which now as an "upright" TruckFridge TF49. Also very happy with that one. TruckFridge also has a "chest" line, in addition to the uprights. TruckFridge is OEM...

Yes, but you'll want to watch the ratings - the only 12V powered Inkbird I see on Amazon has relays rated to 10A. The manual from my Truckfridge recommends a 20A rated switch (which is equivalent to what the PID controller will do - switch the unit on and off to manage the temperature)...

I have a smaller Truckfridge (Indel-B OEM, as stated above) and it has been dead reliable. One thing that may be helpful is that I've seen several Truckfridge owners replace the temperature controls with an external PID-style unit. The Truckfridge (being the low-end offering) just has the knob...