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what model do you have?

What do you call that? I googled AC coupler and just got pictures of air conditioning plumbing connectors.

I plan to put blocking diodes on the wires from the panel to charger.

He doesn’t like the heavy/stiff ride of his 2500 compared to his 1500.

I plan to use a 12v to 36v booster mounted near my trucks auxiliary battery to send 36v back through 10 gauge wire to the trailer where is will feed into my solar charger in parallel with solar panels. The higher voltage will eliminate having to run heavy gauge(1/0) wires 25’ back to the trailer...

I bought a new ‘17 Forester with the same 2.5 the outback uses along with the six speed trans. It always burned about two quarts of oil between changes.

I’ve replaced a couple sets of those yellow Bilsteins and both times found that the old ones were probably still good, Bilstein makes good shocks. After 35 years though probably a good idea to change them.

Any idea what kind of shocks those are? Those giant jounce stoppers look like my sumo springs.

Thanks for the clarification, the blocking vs bypass part was confusing me.

About 5 years ago I bought what looked to be the best LED lights I could find for my 2003 S10 Blazer. They were horseshit, they were dimmer than the factory lights and the light was scattered all over. I returned them. I've gone with HIR bulb since then...

So there's some concern that power could flow into the panels from the truck? Is there some kind of off the shelf diode I could buy to prevent that? Would it be eaiser to just buy a separate solar charge controller to separate it from the other solar charge controller? Perfably a cheap PWM unit...

Sorry, I guess a link would help. The one I was most interested about seems to have been taken down but there are others. Am I just looking at cost per watt or is there something else I'm looking at? Maybe some have features...

Any recommendations about where to get the panels? How about this one from Craigslist? Seems like a hell of a deal, watts/$ wise. I'd buy 2 if they'd work.

It looks like this DC-DC charger is 100w greater than the controller's max. Would these two would work together without issue? Do I have to disconnect the panels when the truck is charging or vice versa disconnect the truck when the panels are charging?

I use one I bought from sears years ago. Was about $50. It has 2 amp, 12 amp, or 75 amp options. It's always worked. I've heard some of the new chargers are too smart for their own good, whatever that means.

OK bear with me here... What happens if I take a 12v to 36v 10 amp voltage booster, mount it under the hood next to my truck's battery, run 10 gauge positive and negative back to the trailer and feed those wires into the solar controller I plan to buy? It looks like I'd only get 1 volt of drop...

Following. I’m considering installing the victron 712 battery monitor also.

If I run solar(~300watts) as well as dc-dc charging do the solar charge controller and the dc-dc charger work together? Wouldn't one confuse the other about what the actual state of charge is? I was looking at this product to be my dc-dc charger and my solar charge controller. It's max input...

I'm following this thread because I have similar questions about my own setup. I want to charge my 2 6v trailer batteries(215ah). Unlike the OP who just wants a trickle charge I want to have as much charging as practical/possible. Is this the charger I want? It might be a little on the big...