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If you really want to tow a trailer that will sleep 4-6 I don’t think a midsize truck is for you. Look at what trailers would work for you, look at that trailers GVWR, then choose a truck that has a tow capacity at least 25% higher than that.

2 6v golf cart batteries wired in parallel series make a good “house” battery bank, also a good upgrade for a travel trailer that usually comes equipped with one RV/marine battery. I think he was suggesting that setup for a “house” bank, not as a replacement for the stock starter battery. I’m...

Maybe it just needs to be bled.

I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around the concept. I can A: Run a couple 0 or 2 gauge wire all the way back with a Anderson power pole connection at the trailer but then I have to take into account that my truck’s charging system and my charge wires need to get a sufficient voltage back...

I haven't been because I had the generator in the back of the truck. We don't really use much 120v though so I'm trying to figure out how to leave the 180lb generator at home.

So you're saying it just connects the TOAD batteries to the tow vehicle batteries? It doesn't boost voltage and it wouldn't be what I'm looking for?

If I used this to charge my trailer batteries would I put this unit under the hood of the tow vehicle or on the trailer by the trailer batteries? Also, what gauge wire for a ~30' run.

Does anyone know if two of these could be used simultaneously? They are a good price compared to other DC-DC chargers I've been seeing but I think I could use more than 10 amps for my 215ah battery bank.

A 1.5 amp is very little and is designed to keep an unused battery topped off while in storage, I don't think it's doing much for you. As a comparison my travel trailer came equipped with space for 2 batteries and a 60amp converter(charger). I am in the same boat as you trying to figure out...

Just read the thread, surprised I didn't see it earlier. I've had a few of the s10's, those steering components don't last too long. As for the light upgrade, I wonder if those LED truck light style sealed beam replacements are worth the money? EDIT: My present truck looks a lot like your old...

Are you suggesting the factory trailer wiring is not fused from the factory? I don't know about his ram but my chevy has a bunch of fuses in the fuse block just for the individual trailer wires. When i added a topper to my truck I tapped into the fifth wheel wiring harness to run a couple dome...

I hope they sell a lot so we can see the engines repowering old rigs.

https://www.amazon.com/Febi-Bilstein-Clutch-Cylinder-12336/dp/B006DHO7VC https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=A0012956006&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=9-6006

Wide tires suck for winter driving. My first truck ever was a ZR2 with BFG AT's in 31x10.5 it was embarrassingly bad. My Dodge Neon with bald tires was way better in the snow.

I don't have that option with my transfer case.

My 2011 6.0 2500 gets 13-14 mpg empty. Towing my 30’ 10k pound travel trailer it gets about half that. Always 3-4,000+ rpm. It’s the headwind that sucks. I drove across Wyoming one day with a 25mph headwind that never let up. 55mph at 4,000rpm sucks if you have to do it all dam day. Trans temp...

I bought my truck at 90k and changed out all the fluids at 100k miles on my '11 2500hd. The axles and the trans fluid all looked new still. The transfer case fluid looked nasty. I think I'm gonna change it again at my next oil change at 122k.

"I can carry that load just fine, just need some air bags to level it out."

Reminds me of the Isuzu vehicross.

It would be more interesting if they kept the solid front axle.