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Sometimes removing the drive shaft makes dropping the tank easier, not sure about the Suburbans.

Alright, put it back together with clean bolts and a new starter. Also I threw a shim in it, seems quieter.

DOWN KAREN!

I've heard that if you plumb the bags together you're more likely to have the weight shift side to side because air gets squeezed from one bag into the other.

I wish I had a 8.1.

Yeah, I put the last starter on with greasy wore out starter bolts. Now that I know that's a problem hopefully I can keep a starter in it.

I think those are old battle scars, my flex plate doesn’t have any wear on it to indicate it did this to that cast aluminum cover.

What kind of clamps do you prefer?

For what application are AGM's worth it?

I feel a bit mislead by the battery sellers then because they list AGM's that work for my truck. Am I wrong? https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/car-and-truck/chevrolet/silverado-2500-hd/2011/v8-6.0l-730cca-optional

It doesn't leak much oil currently. I guess it could have had some semi catastrophic engine failure and was put back in service with a cracked block at the starter bolts.

So if someone buys an AGM and uses it as the sole battery in their truck(and deeply discharge it at times) they won’t get the expected life out of it because the trucks charging system might not be up to the task? How does one evaluate the trucks charging voltage? Just measure battery voltage...

Wouldn’t he run into problems at cold temperatures?

Its a small block Chevy. It’s an 86 truck and the engine is carbed. Definitely not the original engine.

Also this, but this is after cleaning it up. The grinding isn’t fresh and my flex plate looks tip top. Not sure what the story is here. I guess I should mention that this truck has been on its last leg for ten years and is worth less than my boots. Just trying to get it through one more winter.

I’ve actually got that exact same pic saved on my phone so I could get under the truck and compare. The truck I’m working on has that plug to the right of the mount but the raised section the mount is bolted to is completely absent.

Well the hits just keep coming. Engine block is cracked at the starter mount bolts. Did the cracked block cause the starters to crack or was it the other way around? Or was it just worn out bolts? Plan of attack now is to just keep putting free starters in it.

The pointy bits on the fancy ARB bolts are already worn halfway off. Do I need new ones already? I’ve only started the engine twice with these bolts.

It looks like the gear is cracked at say, the 9 and 12 o’clock positions. I hope I got a lifetime warranty on this thing

I took the starter off to get a good look at it and clean it up along with the bolts. Didn’t see any cracks, I was just about to put it back together and saw there was a crack that I missed. I didn’t realize the cast aluminum is that thin at the bolt hole. This is not where it cracked last time...