If you want more weight capacity, use two pair of slides. Then you also get a lock on both sides, which should keep the thing from wobbling while extended.
For OP's described usage, the best bang for the buck is probably the ARB single cylinder portable. Small, reliable, mounts in any position, easy to wire, no plumbing required except the line to the tank. For this type of application, I like compressors with a built-in power switch and pressure...
No need to make a little stub. I just carry an old impact socket of the appropriate size for my jack. Also good to carry a couple of socket extensions so that you can jack without getting any body parts under the truck.
Yes, but the old Coleman or Igloo may be all that you need. Add a bulb seal or gasket around the underside of the Coleman lid and a bungee cord across the top to keep the lid snug and that improves performance considerably. Just about any rotomolded cooler will be better than the Coleman by a...
FWIW, I recently tried to start a very dead GM 5.7 with my fully charged XP-1, and it was a no-go. This XP-1 has worked in the past on the same truck, but this time the old Odyssey 1500 was down to about 2.5 volts and the XP-1 just couldn't kick it over. The Odyssey was about nine years old...
Or a HumVee scissor jack. In my Dodge, I carry the factory jack, a 60" Hi-Lift Extreme, a Bushranger X-Jack (with OBA), and a HumVee scissor jack. All acquired from The Department of Redundancy Department.
Or a medical cooler used for transporting tissue samples and transplant organs. The Yeti and others are just higher end technologies filtering down to the consumer level. There is nothing magic about Yeti.
It's more than lack of familiarity. UV damage over time is very real. Synthetic line also loses strength as its temperature increases. Lots of scientific and industrial data to confirm that.
There are a lot of expeditionious vehicles out there that have crap festooned all over them that has never been used and will probably never be used because many of the owners are posers. When I looked on the AEV web site for a used Pull Pal, there were several "used" ones in "as new"...
My personal experience with Sears and their battery warranties is that it can be difficult to get them to do the right thing on a claim. And the current line of AGMs from Sears is pretty weak, since they severed ties with Odyssey.
I am not a fan of ACRs, but some guys love 'em. If yours separates the batteries when the engine is off and when they reach full charge, then you are probably OK with different batteries. I use the Painless Performance solenoid isolator with the toggle on the dash, so I control when the...
Thread title is "best" battery, so in G34, that would probably be a Northstar or Odyssey. Best value would be a Deka. Best compromise would be Optima Yellow or Blue Dual Purpose Marine with the extra terminals. If you go with the Blue, make sure it's the Dual Purpose. None of these (in a...
In my experience with a bunch of Odysseys, that is true of the 1500s (G34 and 34/78) but not of the 2150 (G31). I am on my third 2150, have an Odyssey charger as well as a Ctek and an Optimus (not Optima), and even with reconditioning charges every two-three weeks, I can't keep the 2150 happy...
Look on the Summit Racing and Jeg's websites. Lots of prefab boxes for relocating batteries on drag cars. I got a couple from Summit and modified them slightly with some angle iron so that they would hang from the frame rail on my Dodge 2500, under the front passenger seat. I have a pair of...
Depends on which Tundra you have. My 2008 CrewMax is running a Northstar Grp 31. It pretty much dropped right in. Still trying to figure out where to put a second battery.
I kept my eye on Craigslist until I found the Pull-Pals I wanted. Got lucky and found them cheap. Seems like some guys buy them because they are cool, then never use them.
Auto touchup pen is not the right tool. If you want to go that route, you'll need a sword brush (the kind pinstripers use), a steady hand, and lots of time. You want to lay the paint in the groove, not on it or around it. Build it up, let it cure and shrink, build it up again, etc. Then...
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