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Nice looking camper and T100! Small hard shell campers aren't easy to find anymore. Here is a brochure on the 2001 models. Do you know the year? https://recreationalvehicles.info/2001-alp-adventurer-truck-campers/2001-alp-adventurer-truck-campers-brochure.pdf

^Very nice looking camper and truck! I really like how well it fits.

Wait... I guess I wasn't at the bottom of the slippery slope after all... Is there a bottom?

I got enough to cry over lately, building that damn camper... But damn, it seems like it wouldn't be too hard... famous last words!

It's a slippery slope! When you finally get to the bottom of it, you'll have something like this...:p

Mine is the DC long bed, so it should be the worst offender. I haven't tried that ^ trick, but right after I bought it and headed south on the 25 in Denver, it bucked like a frickin' bronco. If I had to drive that road very often (or one like it), no way in hell would I own this truck. It's...

I've actually never used heat, beyond a couple candles, and the body heat of two people. But I could add more heat quite cheaply and simply, and it would be portable. I see the real need for heat for people who like to ski and camp in the snow, or hunt, etc. Bundling up during the day in winter...

I did some heating tests on my rig, and it's about 18 W/F in the first 24hrs. So 20 deg F temperature delta (inside vs out) is 360W. It's pretty well insulated though with 1.5" foam and no bridging, and sealed. AC would take ~150W to produce the same 20F delta. The big 5,000Wh battery would last...

Is that AC with only a 15A controller? Size of the battery bank? Is there a charger hooked up to the alternator too? If it's actually hot and you are parked for awhile, AC will need a massive solar/battery system to keep you cool. There have been no great breakthroughs in compressor efficiency...

How much and when?

What's your rig? That's a very high minimum. My light is on all the time, since the sensors are gone... ;) Which reminds me, I need to get some real pressure gauges...

I can buy both short and long add-a-leafs for my truck (and both would probably be good), but... they usually take a pretty thin leaf and curve it too much to get the lift... and the result is usually that it will break before too long, since with a load it will be stressed more than the others...

I gained MPG with my heavy fatties... and high width and low profile tend to be better for rolling resistance. More aero drag, though. But on the other hand, narrow tread and high profile tend to flex more, which is nice offroad.

True. Fat 37s "look right" on full size trucks, IMO.

That appears to be true. I don't see any twist on these: PnM's OKA also has a stiff frame, though it's smaller. Not all MANs are stiff though: I suspect weight and cost are factors. The stiff frame requires more and stronger steel in order to survive, and also increases the need for...

F450 and 550 are open-C also. A lot of frames were open-C in the past and anything bigger than a 1 ton still is AFAIK. The torsionally flexible frame is actually under less stress in cross-up situations because it can twist and keep the wheels on the ground. It is not inherently weak at all...

I think his goal is to maximize psi, and you need a skinny tire for that. 🤷‍♀️

I thought so too, but looked up 6061-T6 angle and it appears some do not have a radius. Usually the square edged ones are 6063.

Another possibility is to do type of 3-point using the Ford mounts. Basically just put the rear mounts more inboard so they can easily let the chassis flex. Yes, you'll need to bridge across the frame rails, but I don't think that should be a problem. I used ES mounts and put the rear ones in...

I don't think the sidewall is typically any heavier, but the narrower the tire is the higher the PSI for a given load rating. This is because a narrower tire of the same diameter will naturally sink more at a given psi and weight, and the sidewall distortion is the main thing generating heat and...