^ Those won't be very light once you add foam and an interior skin. No interest in doing it yourself?
You can by strong 4 lb PVC foam from Carbon Core, and Terra Ops used the skins shown below.
Right, but that ain't 1/2 ton specs... that's 3/4 at least.
This sounds to me a like heavy duty towing rig... a diesel replacement. It's going to be heavy, and it's going to be expensive. No way in hell will this be a "standard" drivetrain.
It's designed for people who A) want electric most...
These CC panels aren't heavy, or expensive. The wonder is that AT achieve a decent insulation (or do they?) given that the PP core is poor in that respect.
Kinda like a dado I guess, that goes all the way through one skin and the core, leaving only one skin left. The joint that I'm referring...
They are also claiming 2625 lb payload, so that doesn't sound like a 1/2 ton either...
When I was looking at Tundras in 2016, the used ones with 100k miles were all at least 2/3 the price of new. No point in buy used with that pricing. I don't care if it's trouble free to 250k, I'm not giving...
Unfortunately I haven't used it! I only bought foam from them.
The edges are open, exposed PP honeycomb. It's the same as Nidacore which is used on boats, so maybe you can find some tips on how that is finished.
If you look at some of the build videos from Styromax in Oz, you'll see that...
You can buy sheets of PP honeycomb core with FG laminate on both sides from Carbon Core. Price is reasonable ($172 for 1/2 inch) and freight shipping was $350 I think, last I bought something from them. https://www.carbon-core.com/product/composite-panels-sheets/
I like these campers! Really a great option for overlanding, as they are simple and modular and not so wide or heavy. I think I would have bought one if they'd come out a little earlier.
Are the inner and outer edge extrusions really attached to each other? I just figured they were separate and...
I made a camper 22 years ago that had a 2.7mm luan skins, 3/4" XPS and wood core, with FG on the outside. I was very happy with the durability and weight. The floor/base (no flatbed) was 5.2mm luan on a 1.5" foam and wood core and no FG. It would have been smart to FG both sides of the...
Light impact cracks the FRP and dents or cracks the foam.
Except for the "rotting when wet" aspect of ply, it's a great material to use for sandwich panels skins, especially with a hard exterior layer of fiberglass.
Wood is quite a bit stiffer than FRP by weight, and of course much less dense...
This looks like quite a deal for someone in the market! (y)
I'm still working on a much simpler homebuilt camper on the same chassis. I laughed when you showed the air tank and pump! These DC Longbeds have a ton of empty space underneath the driver's side of the cab. I haven't figured out what...
I hear overlanding is a bigger market in OZ than the US, despite the much smaller population. Seems impossible, but... 🤷♀️
The US has a big market for very cheaply built campers that aren't made for going offroad.
I don't think it has anything to do with the bond. They use very thin FRP and cheap light foam, and need the ply as an intermediate layer... to protect the foam and FRP, and keep the finish flat and smooth. If you make some samples, you'll see why it's necessary.
With stronger and stiffer foam...
That isn't what they are advertising, though...
Plus, a "small diesel" +generator charging the small battery bank, wouldn't work well in some cases... say uphill or into a strong headwind for awhile... long enough to drain the batteries and leave you with only the amount of power you are able...
Because as the hoods on trucks and SUVs keep getting taller, we are running over more kids from the front... :unsure: Which reminds me... I need to get one or two cameras for the front so I can see what my tires are running over when offroad...
If you can't see behind your vehicle, backup...
For windows and exterior doors you just cut the appropriate size hole in the panel.
I'm definitely not a skilled carpenter! Or a skilled composite builder. If you aren't too picky about cosmetics it isn't hard.
You need one flat surface... like a nice concrete floor. On the other side you use weights. Do some experiments and see how it goes.
I think I'd use epoxy and fumed silica (like Cabosil). PU adhesives need moisture to cure and it will take forever inside closed cell foam and FRP. I used slow...
They just need enough pressure so they touch. Concrete blocks? Bags of sand, dirt, cement, etc? Or you can vacuum press.
The amount of accuracy needed is the same as it is for building anything. A sandwich panel can be easily trimmed for size after it's made if necessary. Joints can be filled...
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