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"It's called the Ramcharger, a pickup that can travel 145 miles (235 kilometers) on electricity, with a 3.6-liter V6 gas-powered engine linked to a generator that can recharge the battery while the truck is moving. The Ramcharger, due in showrooms toward the end of next year, uses 663 horsepower...

I'd put the odds of that at around 99.9%... While looking for (and failing to find) a hilarious "oh what a feeling!" video featuring terrorists and Toyotas, I came across this video regarding Chad's war against Libya in 1987, in which Chad deftly destroyed Libya's far more expensive tanks and...

As I recall his steel was a only on the bottom outside edges, and after the fact he said it wasn't necessary.

I can't talk... because I made my life much more complicated by doing curves and facets. But I'm pretty sure it would be easier, lighter, and better to ditch the steel, and join your panels together. Making it easy is mostly a matter of simple shapes, and flat pieces. Then join them together...

Not many people have a use for a pickup truck that can't be driven on the road! I would absolutely buy one of these even if it cost a lot more. It's basically a stripped down Hilux single cab chassis and drivetrain. Heck, it even has ABS and air bags, so I don't know what the government is...

Simple, functional, modular, easy inside or outside depending on weather... (y) But mostly outside... because the really cool thing about a mobile abode is being able to move around to where the climate is nice!

My experience was a little before that, and you had to buy $3k worth to get free shipping. Otherwise $350 was the shipping cost.

Gotta move to the 3rd world to buy one... :(

In which case it would not be nearly as stiff or strong... and plastic creeps. The fiberglass in FRP makes a big difference. The more fiberglass the better. Plastic has some good applications though...

You'd need to glue them to a foam core... and they probably aren't very stiff. The CarbonCore PP hex core panels are pretty nice, but shipping in small quantities is prohibitive. What are the details of your design?

Sad but true...

Link?

My led strip at the front of my house is 30' long and draws 7W. 3W/ft seems like a lot... but maybe not if you want it very bright.

Just a hair over 16 with this. Was high 17s on the same trip without the camper.

Your 100W DC input is more than enough to run your fridge, and would be simpler and more efficient than DC-AC-DC conversion. If you want to use AC, check the power/amp specs for that and see if it already has a switch that requires the truck to be running.

Don't have links but I think the regulation most places is 80" or less width, you don't need them... over that you do. I doubt this is on the radar of many or any cops, though.

Why wouldn't you just plug your shore power into the powerstation and run everything as normal?

FWC Eagle if it's in good shape.

The universal ES bushings already come that way, with a top and bottom piece and an internal steel sleeve that takes a 1/2" bolt, made to fit it a particular size hole (think lower durometer ones are 1.25") in a 1/4" thick frame. I guess you were thinking of something else, and you are correct...

I'm thinking you should have poly bushings on both sides of the subframe... at least that is how they come, in 2 parts. Otherwise that looks ok to me for the rear part, but up next to the cab you'll want something stiffer, if your camper and cab are going to be attached. How much travel does...