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You obviously havent used one of these. I hooked mine directly to my Extreme Aire Outback Magnum (1.5HP), with no other battery, and it ran it for at least a full 2 minutes straight pressurizing my air system up to 150psi (not no load). The XP1 eventually errored out from a overtemp warning...

I have searched exhaustively and have found little discussion. It's tight. Has anyone figured this out?

You could really be in a world of pain if you smashed that thing on a rock. It would take like 30 minutes to remove it and replace with a normal driveshaft, you must be impressively lazy.

I have one - the Antigravity Batteries XP1. It would absolutely jump start your LR3. Mine has started (from stone cold dead) my Xterra probably 6 times without recharging. Also my 1995 Range Rover from so dead the dome light wouldnt even come on. And my 200Tdi Land Rover (high diesel compression...

Cool looking trails!

There's literally hundreds of them for sale here in the US today.

Not R-50 specific, but modern fuel injection systems with knock sensors and distributorless ignition can safely be run on all grades of pump gas. The engine management system will accommodate. Should you choose to run premium for other perceived reasons, that's your choice.

P-rated does not necessarily mean low load rated. It's entirely possible that the C-rated tires you put on have a lower load rating than the "P" tires that came off. Example, any 115 rated tire (for which there are many in that size) has a stated capacity of 2679 lbs. 113 rated tires (the...

Yes it needs O2's. Without them it is just running based on airflow and the base tune (open loop). Get the O2's fitted, swap to 4.2 14CUX. That's step 1.

Im glad you figured this out and I just want to say bravo for actually diving in and diagnosing/fixing the problem like a professional rather than just throwing parts at it or giving up. Carbon buildup in the intake is a common issue on nearly all late model engines - it usually has to do with...

Pack a rain coat, camp on high ground. It's worked for decades.

Jimmy and I disagree there - but with regards to to the ECU itself a 14CUX box will plug in to and work directly in place of your 13CU with no changes to the wiring or sensors. This means you can buy a 4.2 ECU (from a 1993-1995 Range Rover LWB 4.2) and plug/play. Based on your description it...

You're right Jimmy - 13CU on 87/88, 14CU on 89, 14CUX on 90+ More info here for the OP, http://www.seriesdefender.com/manuals/1314CU_14CUX_Systems.pdf

Now for a resolution, look into how to convert 14CU to 14CUX (it's pretty simple IIRC) and use a 4.2 ECU box. This will get your base tune much closer to where it should be and might be usable. Remember the 1988 3.5 was a 143bhp engine. Your cammed 4.6 should be twice that.

Yes and they are "running" the engine. I've been down this road before. What tends to happen is that the 14CU (not CUX) ECU gets pushed outside it's fuelling tables and injector duty cycle by the airflow coming through the MAF on a cammed 4.6 and defaults to full rich mode, dumping as much fuel...

You are running a cammed 4.6 on a stock 3.5 ECU. What do you expect to happen. This isnt even a 14CUX - it's 14CU

Sounds about right.

Ron, this thread is largely way off track but check this out. It's local for you, too. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1990-mercedes-benz-unimog-42720/

I'd buy the red one. Condition is more important than miles. Engines can be rebuilt.

My scheme is pretty basic, Bright colors for + (red, orange, yellow, etc) and dark colors for ground (black, brown, gray).