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That's a serious set up there...customized dana high pinion front axle and divorced atlas with cable shift set up is probably $12k by themselves..

Yep, that makes sense, living in San Diego I never really consider routine snow driving, it's an "event" when I do it and I did the push button NP263xhd so it's really no big deal for me..

Did you consider just using the NP241J from a late model wrangler? They are set up with fixed outputs both front and rear rather than slip yokes...not sure if that would be a pro or con for your build.

earthroamer.com or https://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/rvd/d/grand-rapids-2018-showhauler-custom-4x4/6889137713.html

Yes it will accelerate wear. The more you lift the more static angle you run, during any turning the (now higher) angles are compounded, but, it's just the price of doing this type of mod. The truck guys have access to a lot larger lift product line that include differential drops that return...

I went ahead and ordered a pair of these...I'll continue my duties as "guinea-pig"

I haven't bought any Plusnuts/T-Nuts yet but they look like they'd be well suited to many van/camper applications. I'd guess (given the "prebulbed" ) design you'd have a larger install hole vs same size rivnut and like you mentioned if you have interference on the back side the larger foot print...

I don't think anyone was talking about aluminum inserts or body material, the vast majority of riv-nuts used in automotive applications are plated steel going into sheet steel, and as I said above for installing inserts like that I would use body seam sealer to wet install those... for the...

no argument with that...my reference to it was for coating fastener threads and mating side of flat washers/flanges where it's compressed/sandwiched; it works well for that and still allows the fastener to be removed without a lot of extra effort.

there's always that one silicone hater out there...just because it doesn't resist or inhibit corrosion doesn't mean it causes it.. if you are more comfortable with a polyurethane or polysulfide based sealant for everything then please proceed.

you mentioned that fiberine sells the correct molding, do you have a part number for that or is it just call and order thing ?(I know they are a bit old school).

sounds right...it's been a few years since I had to source my 241OR for my rockcrawler and nearly made the mistake of buying one with the external spline config.

Be careful with the late model wrangler cases, there are some considerable input shaft differences(both internal and external available in the same years) between manual and auto trans models and I think another change happened in 2014.

Has anyone used/have experience with this latch? https://www.4xinnovations.com/Swing-Out-Tire-Carrier-Latch-Assembly_p_110.html

put a light coat of body seam sealer on the exterior of the nutsert/rivnut before you install it to give a "wet installation" that's a common aircraft sheet metal technique. Coat the mating surfaces and all your threaded fasteners with something light Ultra Gray RTV as you are installing...

Here's a link to what appears to be exactly the same hinges I used, mine too were sized for 1.75" x .095" wall tube, I just took a little off so they would fit in .120" wall...

that's true...I forgot about the np205...they put that thing in everything..

yes that 32spline configuration was used at one time or another by almost all the car makers (except ford I think...they always had to have an odd spline count). I had a similar issue with my NP263xhd, the front output was female internal spline (duramax uses a very larger 31spline) so I took...

full 180 opening...that was a must have!

The newer 1500's have aluminum lowers, nice pieces that would shave some considerable weight vs their cast iron predecessors..