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No, I'm sure there is some small offset, but it isn't really noticable, didn't "feel" any different then driving with the stock seat set up other than maybe being a little taller which I actually prefer. I'll take some measurements tomorrow.

before and after...back on the road...interior build will happen early next summer

Roadtrek swivels installed yesterday, they work really well..

getting one from a warm/dry climate matters more than mileage...they did a poor job of rust protection on the underside so a high mileage van that has spent any significant time winter driving in places where they salt the roads is going to be more work than it's worth..

I think you are both saying the same thing...and are both correct.

link to the build thread is in my signature(y)

You'd probably do best to find a quigley converted van of that era and take a bunch of pictures...I know they converted a bunch of them with with leaf sprung dana44/60's. There is a facebook group for quigley owners, you may get a simpathetic soul to take pic's for you..

Yeah, I flipped the entire shackle mount(from under-hang to over-hang) to get the lift to match the front without having to change the springs .

front bumper on(new chin spoiler due in tomorrow) and got my wheels/centers on, still need to swap the new tires on to these wheels..

I'll defer to you Ford guys on that :D

It is a Reese 37096 multi-fit( I think all the multi-fits are Class 3 rated because of the adapter brackets)...I didn't need any of the mounting brackets and actually narrowed it a bit so that I could mount it to the inside of the frame rails instead of outside...that allowed me to tuck it up...

Stock chrome bumper and chin spoiler, the spoiler just needs a notch to fit around the receiver. At $185 shipped I can destroy 10 of them before I pay for one aftermarket bumper.

little face lift..

Sometimes on the stem end you have a fair amount of extra length and you can put a solid spacer on top of the shock before you feed it though to give you some extra static length...I've actually seen where a guy cut and extended(tig welded some solid round stock in) the stem to do this....you...

https://www.my4by.com/bilstein-shock-specs.html this one has some stem/clevis options

plenty of room on the long wheel base

As I'm getting close to the end of the drive-train changes I'll be shifting to the "camper build out" soon. Body back on the chassis yesterday, should be running in a week or so. I had wanted to drive it down to Weldtec to pick up the Lightforce Lights I won but it was dragging out longer than...

You should do any "lift" first...then size shocks according to your actual measurements...advertised/intended lift frequently doesn't match actual lift and can result in a shock length that doesn't support your needs (albeit less of a concern with a smaller lift). It will be up to you to decide...

As mentioned before, ball joint working angle/ travel and your ability to restore camber become a real problem(heavy outter tire wear/scalloping) when you crank/change torsion keys to lift more than about 1.5' to 2"...you will loose most of your droop and will be hitting the upper bump limiter...

You wouldn't believe how many guys are clueless about this...I have friends that just buy wheels because the size and lug pattern are correct and then act like they've been personally targeted for screwing by the wheel company when the tire rubs on the frame or wheel won't clear the brakes...a...