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Are you totally opposed to an exoskeleton type rack? Doesn't give the clean install that an internal frame would, but it totally eliminates the fiberglass shell as a load bearing component, and doesn't cut into your interior space the way a sufficiently strong internal frame would. Also, if...

I am using one of the Superflow MV50 compressors... I had one of those harbor freight 2 or 3 gallon oilless compressors laying around that didn't work anymore, so I mounted the MV50 to the tank and piped it in with some 1/4" copper. Works great for filling tires and short blasts of air tools...

Just FYI a mud and snow M/S rating does not mean mud tire. A mud tire will pretty much by definition be mud and snow rated, however all seasons are too. Its what makes a tire all season. It just means that the tread is designed to not turn itself into a racing slick when driving on sticky...

Roof rack = crap gas mileage. If you don't need it, don't get one.

31" isn't that big of a tire... an 18" will by no means put you into a "low profile" category, but that's still not a whole lot of sidewall if you plan on airing down your tires on a regular basis.

I've seen people use regular solar landscape lights as well. Get em for a couple bucks at the local big box, and modify them with a cheapo slider switch like you find on kids toys and stuff (dirt cheap online). I've seen them stored in homemade PVC racks, and tall-side cardboard 6 pack boxes...

The addition of the extra tube from the tongue back to the frame rails is a definite improvement. It will add some stiffness and help transmit the pulling force directly to the frame and back to the springs. And I noticed you moved the gas cans away from your welding area. :campfire:

I would seriously reconsider the tongue design to be lapped underneath the frame and extend back to the large cross member above the axle. Right now, you are relying on the torsional strength of the front of the frame and your welds (on what appear to be unprepped steel) to bear the entire...

I would be worried about the roof rack ripping out of the roof when it's slid back and cantilevered out. Something that's designed for bearing weight will suddenly be under considerable tension.

When you see wobbling wheels, I assume it's in the rear view mirror while towing it? I would get it up on a Jack and spin them. Try to see if the tires are bulgy, wheels are bent, or the bearings chuck. Any of those things is a cheap and quick fix. Wheel wobble comes from a spinning part...

You can buy generic low profile surface mount LED dome lights at most auto parts stores. I use a couple in my truck cap and they put out plenty of light.

This looks like it might be right. Grab a multimeter or test light and find out. :)

LRE tires (or at least ones you'd want) will cost $1000 by themselves. Good air bags, thicker sway bars, and stiffer shocks will be another thousand. What I really matters is not so much the weight but the CG and load center. A 1600# block of concrete in the bed just ahead of the axle is a...

I've seen these type of batteries on clearance at Walmart for under 10 bucks each. Usually in the hunting department at the end of hunting season. They are frequently used in game feeders.

I've got a pair of maglite clips holding a 6D mag horizontally along the bottom of the driver's door down by the door pocket... so far they have survived 3 years of bouncing and door slamming. Light gets used on a near daily basis at work. Never had it pop out, and no signs of wear. Anyway...

Looks like it extends far enough forward that it protrudes past where the roof line and windshield start to slope downward. You've got a great big scoop that's funneling air underneath it. Moving it back a bit and adding a wind deflector would likely cut your wind noise drastically, and would...

My wife calls me a pack rat... but I have yet to not find something truly useful purpose for the stuff I save. To build an identical one with all new stuff probably would have easily cost $150

Thought about it... and adding a second switch to toggle them on and off, since they have a small parasitic drain when left powered. But then it wouldn't be a $4 power supply anymore. :p I just keep a 2 port USB charger and a micro USB cord inside the can in a Ziploc baggie. Works fine for me.

Only reason i dont want to use wirenuts long term is because the Inverter is only accessed via opening the lid. Wire nuts don't do well when movement or Vibration is a factor. Not that I plan to use the Inverter much, but still. Oh, and charging is done via the cigarette lighter plug. Either...

I have a pile of 6v 5ah SLA batteries. They are from emergency backup lighting fixtures. We change out batteries on a 2 year PM schedule regardless of condition. Most have never been used, apart from a 2 minute monthly function test. All have been maintained on a float charge. We generally...